Dyno test videos and result

Wouldnt it be great to see some dyno videos with results.I start off with this race V12

Youtube link V12 dyno

Best regards
Ole Mobeck


And this is a std HE engine

Best regards
Ole Mobeck

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Thank you very much for that, Ole!

It’s great to see actual numbers from someone doing real dyno work. I also noticed that that is all accomplished with nothing fancy on the intakes: no horns no anything.

Yep Paul.
Standard throttles also, no bigbore.
There was only -0.4 psi vacum in the manifold at 7500 rpm so not much need for larger stuff.
I tryed with ba bellmouth but no change, its the heads that is maxed out, the limit is there, with the STD size Gr.A style valves.

Ole m


Interesting: Similar results are why I rail against standard engines being over-carbureted, like putting a 750 cfm Holley, on a SBC.

Gee, I would consider -0.4 psi a lot.

Carbs and EFI are different in this regard. Too much carb makes an engine run lousy. Great big butterflies on an EFI system might make the throttle a bit twitchy – just touch it and you get too much – but the engine should run just fine. Gotta recalibrate the throttle pot, of course.

That’s only .8” of vacuum, virtually no restriction. Pretty darn good for a normally aspirated engine without modifications to the throttle or intake.

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I mean the original throttle rod arrangement is way to progrssive (in the start) for a race engine, so I changed the geometry a bit. This way the tps signal will be more equal to the actual movement of the butterfly, and the mapping of the ecu will be better and also drivability of a racecar.
This relationship also alters with bigger throttles. But now My engine actually opens the trottles a bit from zero to 15% tps actuation. From std they do not.

Just my input on this

Ole M

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Roughly what, 3%? I agree, probably pretty good as normally aspirated engines go. But if you could get that vacuum down to, say, 1%, you’d have gained 2% power with virtually no downsides other than the cost and effort to make the mod. Of course, I dunno how hard it would be to get it down to 1%.

You can with a tuned intake and scavenger exhaust, and cam changes (if the stars align) but nothing is free, the engine might get slightly over 100% volumetric efficiency at one rpm, and be less everywhere else.
Great for boats, not so much cars.
Like operating a business, cutting 5% out of your cost is easy; the next 5% is 10x harder. In the case of chasing horsepower, 10x the cost.

When people would ask me how one could get 70hp out of a bone-stock VW 1200, I’d tell them…
-40 to 50 hp, $1500
-50 to 60 hp, $1500 more
-60 to 70 hp, $75/hp.

(All prices 1984 vintage!)

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Or, as a popular poster puts it:


– choose any two.