I want the radiator cooling fans to run when the ignition is
off but the coolant temperature high enoug to close the
Otter Switch. My plan is to run a wire from the positive
post of the battery through an inline fuse and an inline
diode (to prevent current backflowing to the battery)to the
power input terminal on the Radiator Cooling Fan Relay (with
an inlide diode on the ignition powered wire to the Cooling
Fan Relay to prevent current backflowing to the other
systems powered by the ignition switch). There are two
relays on top of the radiator housing. I think the one on
the right(passenger side on left hand drive car)is the
Radiator Cooling Fan Relay however I would like confirmation
of this relay location. Also is there an easier way to
accomplish this goal?–
Gordon Mortin
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Far more complication than you need. Open the center panel, remove
the wire that feeds the fans from the fuse panel. Add an inline fuse
to the end of this wire, with a 1/4" female connector on the other
end of the fuse. Locate an always-powered lug on the inside of the
fuse holders (the protected side of the fuse boxes are on the
outside, the center lugs are not protected), and connect the wire to
that through an inline fuse. There’s no need for any diodes,
no wiring runs, and you never actually touch the relay.
Mike Frank
At 06:00 PM 12/7/2014, Gordon Mortin wrote:> Also is there an easier way to
No help with the location of the relay but you don’t need the diode.
Simply remove the wire from the ign switched. circuit (green) that
went to the relay and connect a wire from the battery to that relay
pin. In fact you can probably just remove the green wire from the
relay and make up a jumper from the Brown (unswitched) wire to where
the green wire was. The brown wire is already fused and is the wire
that carries the major current for the fans so you won’t need to add a
fuse either. If your car has AC I would need to investigate further
but do not think it makes any difference.
pauls
I want the radiator cooling fans to run when the ignition is
off but the coolant temperature high enoug to close the
Otter Switch. My plan is to run a wire from the positive
post of the battery through an inline fuse and an inline
diode (to prevent current backflowing to the battery)to the
power input terminal on the Radiator Cooling Fan Relay (with
an inlide diode on the ignition powered wire to the Cooling
Fan Relay to prevent current backflowing to the other
systems powered by the ignition switch). There are two
relays on top of the radiator housing. I think the one on
the right(passenger side on left hand drive car)is the
Radiator Cooling Fan Relay however I would like confirmation
of this relay location. Also is there an easier way to
accomplish this goal?
<<<<<<<<<<<From: “Gordon Mortin” n448l@aol.com
Subject: [E-Type] 1972 XKE Series III Otter Switch Cotrol of Radiator Cooling
In reply to a message from Michael Frank sent Sun 7 Dec 2014:
Thank you Frank. I did what you suggested and it worked just as
you described. The only difference is that for some reason on my
car the unprotected side of the fuses are the outside part of the
panel and the protected circuits are on the inside of the panel.
The outside wires are larger and the insulation is rough surfaced
and muted in color. The inside wires are smaller and the
insulation is slicker.
Fuse 7 is the fuse on my car to which the fan relay is connected.
There are five green wires and one black wire connected to this
fuse on the protected side. One of the green wires is the fan
relay wire. I used an aligator clipped wire to connect the two
wires that go to the Otter switch at the Otter switch. With the
ignition key on I removed the green wires one at a time until the
fans stopped. Turned out to be the last wire I removed. I
followed your instructions and connected this wire to the
unprodtected side of fuse 4 through an inline fuse. Now, so long
as the Otter switch works properly, when I shut off the engine on a
hot day, for a few minutes at say a gas stop, the temperature
should not rise much so that when I re-start the car I will not
experience an overheated cooling system.
Now if I can fix the distributor advance tomorrow, I should have a
car that does well on hot days even with the air conditioning
running.
Thank you so much for takingt time to respond to my request for
help.
Gordon Mortin–
The original message included these comments:
the wire that feeds the fans from the fuse panel. Add an inline fuse
Mike Frank
In reply to a message from Gordon Mortin sent Mon 8 Dec 2014:
Gordon, Re that dizzy…hope you know about Kirby Palm’s J-L
E book on the XJS…good info on refurbishing the V12
dizzy.Good luck!–
The original message included these comments:
Now if I can fix the distributor advance tomorrow, I should have a
car that does well on hot days even with the air conditioning
Gordon Mortin
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Gordon Mortin sent Mon 8 Dec 2014:
Dear Gordon.
If it is a s3 etype, then it’ll be a retard not advance unit which
is fitted. You’ll have (or at least should have) centrifugal
advance as rpm increases and a bit of retard by various possible
mechanisms depending on the vacuum plumbing for your car.
See my pencil annotations on the photo album entry - where I have
written ‘‘advance’’ in pencil, it should read ‘‘retard’’.