[E-Type] 4.2 Valve clearances

I’ve been over every post I can find, and I’d still like a
definative answer as to when the clearances changed from
.004 and .006 to .012 and .014 Mine are set for .010 (or
so I surmise) both intake and exhaust. The engine runs all
right; I know it won’t harm anything; but boy is it noisy.
Comments?–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
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In reply to a message from IanCameron sent Mon 2 Oct 2006:

Ian,
If it’s noisy, the problem most likely isn’t clearances. Even
with the wider clearances, a properly setup engine will be very
quiet. I’d first check the upper chain tension, as a loose chain
will cause all kinds of valve noises, as the cams flap around under
load. If that doesn’t do it, I’d look at the tappets and guides
themselves. You may well have something worn in there, and the
tappets are rattling around in the guides making the noise.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from IanCameron sent Mon 2 Oct 2006:

Technical Service Bulletin 1-A-18 shows that the camshafts
were changed to the ‘‘quieter’’ profile starting with engine
No. 7R.8688 SWB and 7R.8855 2+2. The ‘‘quieter’’ camshafts
required the .012’’ and .014’’ clearances.

.010’’ is clearly wrong for either the earlier or later
camshafts.

Richard Liggitt–
The original message included these comments:

I’ve been over every post I can find, and I’d still like a
definative answer as to when the clearances changed from
.004 and .006 to .012 and .014 Mine are set for .010 (or
so I surmise) both intake and exhaust. The engine runs all
right; I know it won’t harm anything; but boy is it noisy.
Comments?


'70 E Roadster 1R11998, '98 XK8 Roadster, www.XKEBooks.com
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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In reply to a message from IanCameron sent Mon 2 Oct 2006:

Hello Ian,

Richard has posted the engine numbers, but if the head has no
number, another clue is the flange on the front of the cams. Early
cams have two bolt flanges and later cams have four bolt flanges.
The later cams are definately quieter, but no XK can be described
as quiet compared to a modern engine. It should sound like a group
of typists in the next room, not a hard rapping noise. Tappets
rarely make noise from wear. Tappet guides however, can lose their
fit in the head and rise up and hit the cams. Inspect the edges of
the tappet guides for marks and measure their heights with the cam
covers off. My experience is that unually noisy engines with the
correct clearances usually have worn valve guides. Check your cam
flanges and set your valve clearances to spec, inspecting the parts
along the way. Pay attention to the finish on the end of the valve
stems, any shim dimples and make sure the shims sit proud of the
recess in the spring retainers. Resist the temptation of closing
up the clearances to make things quieter.

Paul–
The original message included these comments:

I’ve been over every post I can find, and I’d still like a
definative answer as to when the clearances changed from
.004 and .006 to .012 and .014 Mine are set for .010 (or
so I surmise) both intake and exhaust. The engine runs all


PS
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In reply to a message from PS sent Mon 2 Oct 2006:

One of my next projects is to check out the valve clearances on
my '71 series 2 which is a very late version. What I’m curious
about is in what direction do valve clearances go as thing wear?
What is the implication of doing nothing if ones clearnaces are not
correct? Is it just lack of enginge power, responsiveness and poor
idle or is there potential harm due to heat transfer issues etc?

Also sounds like my clearances should be .012 and .014 for a late
series 2.

Ray Mikula
1971 Series 2 FHC
Libertyville, Illinois, USA–
The original message included these comments:

I’ve been over every post I can find, and I’d still like a
definative answer as to when the clearances changed from
.004 and .006 to .012 and .014 Mine are set for .010 (or
so I surmise) both intake and exhaust. The engine runs all


RJJM
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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In reply to a message from RJJM sent Mon 2 Oct 2006:

Ray,
Clearances get tighter as things wear, and there is definite
risk of damage if neglected for too long. It can lead to burned,
or even bent valves.–
The original message included these comments:

One of my next projects is to check out the valve clearances on
my '71 series 2 which is a very late version. What I’m curious
about is in what direction do valve clearances go as thing wear?
What is the implication of doing nothing if ones clearnaces are not
correct? Is it just lack of enginge power, responsiveness and poor
idle or is there potential harm due to heat transfer issues etc?
Ray Mikula


Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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Heheh, got to thinking about that. Instantly knew how it should sound
and was thinking this is the best analogy I’ve ever heard :slight_smile: Then I
thought… how many people know what an old typwriter sounds like :slight_smile:
pauls 67ots

In reply to a message from IanCameron sent Mon 2 Oct 2006:
…It should sound like a group
of typists in the next room, not a hard rapping noise…

Paul
<<<<<<<<<<

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Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.phpFrom: “PS” psalt@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [E-Type] 4.2 Valve clearances

In a message dated 10/1/2006 9:30:33 PM Pacific Standard Time, ianc@uvic.ca
writes:
The engine runs all
right; I know it won’t harm anything; but boy is it noisy.
Comments?

Turn up the radio.

Best, Mike Moore

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In reply to a message from IanCameron sent Mon 2 Oct 2006:

I second the idea the noise may be tappet/ tappet-guide
wear. My upper engine noise finally went away when these
were replaced.
Doug–
Douglass Harroun
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In reply to a message from Douglass Harroun sent Mon 2 Oct 2006:

As Ray stated in his earlier post, the actual clearance shouldn’t
effect the noise that much. What does make a difference is if the
clearances are not uniform. In other words, what ever clearance you
choose for your intake and exhaust, make sure all the intake are
the same, and all the exhaust are the same. There are no tolerances.
Joel–
ex jag, '66 E-type S1 4.2, '56 XK140dhc
Denison, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from ex jag sent Mon 2 Oct 2006:

My co-worker, the notorious Dick Maury, has a little Jag camshaft
info on his newly-created personal website, georgiajag.com, that
might be of interest.

http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/Camshafts.html--
Gregory Wells
Lithonia, GA, United States
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In reply to a message from ex jag sent Mon 2 Oct 2006:

Without ripping into the engine, I’m pretty sure that the
noise to which I object is just clearance. ‘‘A roomful of
typists’’ is pretty good: I once worked as a reporter on a
large newspaper, and the city room had 40 or so office
model Underwoods, all being operated by reporters who typed
with either two or four fingers: in either case, they hit
the keys pretty hard, especially as they were making an
original and two carbons. (Remember carbon paper?) That’s
just what the engine sounds like. When the oil is cold, the
engine sounds like the city room at noon: pretty quiet. As
the oil heats up the engine sounds like deadline
approaching: louder and louder. It’s certainly not the
front end: my stethoscope tells me that. My engine number
is, according to the plate, 7R6987/9. That should mean the
earlier (smaller) clearances. My guess is that someone read
that racing clearances were .006 and .010 and played it
safe by setting everything to .010. The actual clearances
are: Intake 4 x .010, 1 x .009, 1 x .011. Exhaust 2 x
.010, 1 x .009, 1 x .008, 1 x .011, 1 x .014 Looks like
they were all set at .010 to me.

Playing the radio louder won’t work: this car has an
exhaust note that reminds me of a DeHavilland Beaver
(rotary engine) taking off from calm water. It might not
wake the dead, but everyone in our neighbourhood knows when
I’m coming and going.–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
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In reply to a message from IanCameron sent Tue 3 Oct 2006:

Ian,
FWIW - On the first rebuild of my engine, I had tons of valve
noise, that no amount of adjustment would mitigate. After the last
rebuild, which was finally done correctly, and replaced the tappets
and guides, it is now very, very quiet. Cruising at any speed
above 20MPH, the valves are all but inaudible. At highway speed,
the sound is completely lost in the wind and exhaust noise. If
you’re hearing an objectionable amount of tappet noise at speed,
either your clearances are way, way, way off, or there’s something
wrong with the timing chain, tappets or guides. The clearances get
tighter with use, so they’ll get quieter if neglected, not noisier.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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