On my Series II I had always assumed butterflies were opening
fully . Linkage moved freely and if manually operated rods,
butterflies opened all the way. But with gas pedal to the floor
butterflies were not opening fully. Made alteration by cutting
down the length of horizontal rod on firewall. There is some
adjustment at ball-crank but not enough until I trimmed off
about 3/8’’. There must be a better way to adjust for this?
Is there an adjustment at pedal box for travel or placement of
lever where it attaches to ball-crank?
Carbs are now opening all the way, but while I was cutting rod
with Dremel cut-off that voice in my head says this not right.
Glenn
70 E–
melloyello
Lake Elsinore California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from melloyello sent Thu 4 Aug 2016:
Hi Glenn,
Don’t quote me but I seem to recall a discussion about the
replacement spacers being an issue but it might have been just
for the secondary throttles. The newer spacers were thinner or
some such and the secondarys would either bind or not fully
open. Sounds to me like you did the right thing but I to get
those little voices now and then, hate that when it happens;-)
Cheers,
LLynn–
The original message included these comments:
Is there an adjustment at pedal box for travel or placement of
lever where it attaches to ball-crank?
Carbs are now opening all the way, but while I was cutting rod
with Dremel cut-off that voice in my head says this not right.
Glenn
–
Lynn G.
68/85 ots, 73 2+2, Boise, Id., United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from L.Lynn sent Thu 4 Aug 2016:
Llynn
I had the same thought about spacers, but after thinking it
through don’t think that’s it. My spacers are pretty thick, they
would have to be much thicker to make up for 3/8 ‘’ shorter rod
length. On 2nd thought logic is all wrong, linkage is semi-fixed
to firewall, spacers should not make a difference. Rod to carbs
would just be just off center.
Glenn–
The original message included these comments:
Don’t quote me but I seem to recall a discussion about the
replacement spacers being an issue but it might have been just
for the secondary throttles. The newer spacers were thinner or
some such and the secondarys would either bind or not fully
open. Sounds to me like you did the right thing but I to get
those little voices now and then, hate that when it happens;-)
Cheers,
LLynn
–
melloyello
Lake Elsinore California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Have you checked the “bearing” where the linkage meets the firewall at
the carb end of things? This wears and motion is lost there.On Thu, Aug 4, 2016 at 4:20 PM, melloyello gwior@outlook.com wrote:
On my Series II I had always assumed butterflies were opening
fully . Linkage moved freely and if manually operated rods,
butterflies opened all the way. But with gas pedal to the floor
butterflies were not opening fully. Made alteration by cutting
down the length of horizontal rod on firewall. There is some
adjustment at ball-crank but not enough until I trimmed off
about 3/8’’. There must be a better way to adjust for this?
Is there an adjustment at pedal box for travel or placement of
lever where it attaches to ball-crank?
Carbs are now opening all the way, but while I was cutting rod
with Dremel cut-off that voice in my head says this not right.
Glenn
70 E
melloyello
Lake Elsinore California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:
Les
There is no slop in the linkage at all, especially since I
shortened the rod. Will try to adjust a little more play as it is
a little too tight now. The bushing you refer to was replaced by
me 40+ years ago with one made of Teflon, fabricated from a
plumbing valve seat.
Glenn–
The original message included these comments:
Have you checked the ‘‘bearing’’ where the linkage meets the firewall at
the carb end of things? This wears and motion is lost there.
–
melloyello
Lake Elsinore California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:
Les
There is no slop in the linkage at all, especially since I
shortened the rod. Will try to adjust a little more play as it is
a little too tight now. The bushing you refer to was replaced by
me 40+ years ago with one made of Teflon, fabricated from a
plumbing valve seat.
Glenn
The original message included these comments:
Have you checked the ‘‘bearing’’ where the linkage meets the firewall at
the carb end of things? This wears and motion is lost there.
–
melloyello
Lake Elsinore California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from melloyello sent Thu 4 Aug 2016:
The spacers are definitely the problem. They have to be a
specific thickness. This design was not the best moment for
the engineers at Jaguar. Here is a link to the issue and
solution:
In reply to a message from tbob sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:
Bob
This goes back more than 40 years ago. Bought a Teflon valve seat
from plumbing supply and drilled out hole to correct size of
shaft. Did not have a lathe so put a bolt and nut on seat and put
in electric drill. Don’t remember if I used a razor or file to
create a raised lip around opening to fit into bracket. Applied
epoxy or such? Correct part may still be available? Or use a
nylon/collar or washer from hardware store with epoxy.
Glenn–
The original message included these comments:
Glenn,
I need to do what you did (quoted herein). Is like to know
what you used.
Bob t
a little too tight now. The bushing you refer to was replaced by
me 40+ years ago with one made of Teflon, fabricated from a
plumbing valve seat.
–
melloyello
Lake Elsinore California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from melloyello sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:
Thanks for the description.
Replacement part IS available, but its just as sloppy as
the original. This is the chief offender in my thrattle
linkage; if I get this tight all will be much better.
Regards,
Bob t–
The original message included these comments:
epoxy or such? Correct part may still be available? Or use a