my rear door scratches very slightly over the chassis on
the left side- where the nouns are located.
What’s the correct way to avoid this from happening ? A
friend tried it for an hour to no avail, it got even worse
a bit.
I don’t have the rubbers fitted yet, no glass either and no
lock.
Now, I thought I should put in some spacers below the nouns
on the door side BUT won’t that simply put the nouns a bit
deeper (so to say), and the door would still sit too deep
in the mould + scratch the chassis + remove the paint ???
It seems not an easy job. Am I wrong ?
Carsten–
Restoration in progress: 1966 2+2 LHD manual
Goettingen, Germany
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Carsten sent Thu 27 Oct 2011:
I had to forcibly bend the door upwards (attached to the hinges),
when it was still in primer (easily fixed). Even with that, I had
to jigger around the hinges and their bolts to get it to clear all
the time. It’s not easy.
The hatch door is quite flimsy and flexible, so check to make sure
there are no stress cracks in the inner skin. There were on mine (a
result of either letting it fall open, or not be supported by the
prop rod) and I had to weld them up, then use the adjustment
procedure above.–
The original message included these comments:
my rear door scratches very slightly over the chassis on
the left side- where the nouns are located.
What’s the correct way to avoid this from happening ? A
friend tried it for an hour to no avail, it got even worse
a bit.
It seems not an easy job. Am I wrong ?
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Carsten sent Thu 27 Oct 2011:
I’m not sure what you mean by ‘‘nouns’’ but I seem to remember
having to fab up some sheet metal shims to place between the
hinge plates and the hatch to raise up the hatch.
It’s certainly not easy to figure out the adjustment. In my
case, I had cut out the old rusted tonneau panel and boot
floor and replaced them with new ones and that didn’t make
it any easier.–
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Carsten,
I don’t have a coupe so don’t know the configuration but what if you
put the spacers on the door rather than the chassis.
pauls 67ots
All,
my rear door scratches very slightly over the chassis on
the left side- where the nouns are located.
What’s the correct way to avoid this from happening ? A
friend tried it for an hour to no avail, it got even worse
a bit.
I don’t have the rubbers fitted yet, no glass either and no
lock.
Now, I thought I should put in some spacers below the nouns
on the door side BUT won’t that simply put the nouns a bit
deeper (so to say), and the door would still sit too deep
in the mould + scratch the chassis + remove the paint ???
It seems not an easy job. Am I wrong ?
Carsten
<<<<<<<<<<From: “Carsten” carsten.bussmann@gmx.net
Subject: [E-Type] Adjusting the rear door ???
I think this is where the adjectives and verbs should be…
LLoyd (just couldn’t help myself)
My driveway is long enough that you can appreciate the conflict between the desire for privacy and the terror of being completely lost .----- Original Message -----
From: “Carsten” carsten.bussmann@gmx.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 1:51:29 PM
Subject: [E-Type] Adjusting the rear door ???
All,
my rear door scratches very slightly over the chassis on
the left side- where the nouns are located…
In reply to a message from Carsten sent Thu 27 Oct 2011:
IMHO, the rear hatch is almost impossible to fit correctly without
the glass being in and the weatherstripping in place.
IIRC, the hinges are adjustible whaere they attach to the hatch and
where they attach to the body, no shims necessary.
I adjusted mine by placing the hatch on the car in the correct
position (even gap all around) and having an assistant hold it
there while I crawled in and attached the hinges to the hatch and
tightened the hinge to body fasteners.
BTW, this also worked for the doors but you need an assistant who
won’t whine about how long it takes to secure the door hinges to
the door. :-)–
John Walker, No E-Type at present
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from mouton sent Fri 28 Oct 2011:
When I disassembled my car, it had shims installed under the bottom
edge of each hinge…currently has one under the lower hinge and
three under the upper…your results may vary.–
Eric
Republic of Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Yes, the hinges may be shimmed and yes, both hinges are adjustable on both ends.
After all that is done, all you have to do is figure out how to put an square
peg in a round hole and get the seams to line up.
Larry----- Original Message ----
From: 64etype bittersc@netzero.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Fri, October 28, 2011 2:12:24 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Adjusting the rear door ???
In reply to a message from mouton sent Fri 28 Oct 2011:
When I disassembled my car, it had shims installed under the bottom
edge of each hinge…currently has one under the lower hinge and
three under the upper…your results may vary.
Eric
Republic of Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Carsten sent Thu 27 Oct 2011:
Hi Carsten,
I agree with others who suggested fully equipping the door
with the glass and gaskets before trying to adjust. The
glass is heavy, it’s weight will introduce a flex value to
the adjustment. I have a 2+2 and with a fully installed
hatch cover, have spent untold hours trying to make it
right. Shimming those nouns(hinges)is a much needed event.
Good Luck!–
The original message included these comments:
All,
my rear door scratches very slightly over the chassis on
the left side- where the nouns are located.
What’s the correct way to avoid this from happening ? A
friend tried it for an hour to no avail, it got even worse
a bit.
I don’t have the rubbers fitted yet, no glass either and no
lock.
Now, I thought I should put in some spacers below the nouns
deeper (so to say), and the door would still sit too deep
in the mould + scratch the chassis + remove the paint ???
–
KenAshbrook, 1E77559 '67 2+2, '04 XJR,
Severna Park, MD, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from KenAsh… sent Fri 28 Oct 2011:
All,
I tried to add 2 thick spacers on the top door side hinge.
It did not really help.
What helped was to heavily PULL ! on the door frame. Within
a second it fitted 100%, and does since.
And it is NOT broken, nothing.
I just guess it was bent a little.
Then, I fitted the rubber gasket on the chassis frame. It’s
made from 2 parts, a longer and a shorter one, Omega-
shaped ? It was the only one from my 2+2 kit which did fit
there.
Now, I tried to fit the heated (!) screen, but removing it
only made me destroying the vinyl cover, as it’s glued into
the screen rubber.
How can I pull the heater rubbers from the door ? I had no
time to find out but will go there tomorrow…
Carsten–
The original message included these comments:
I agree with others who suggested fully equipping the door
with the glass and gaskets before trying to adjust. The
–
Restoration in progress: 1966 2+2 LHD manual
Goettingen, Germany
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–