[E-Type] Advice please. Rust remediation - ID plate under Heater Box

Wish I could say I was ‘‘restoring’’ my car but I can’t take it to
that level. I’m taking good care, and doing my best with problem
areas. One trouble spot that I’m sure is common is on the left
side (Left hand drive) under the Heater Box. I wish I could leave
it alone, but I think I’m going to have to drill out the ID plate,
deal with the rust and then re-affix the plate.

Any advice? Pitfalls to be aware of? Thank you - I’m a novice, am
very careful but don’t want to get started without checking with
you all first. Thank you.–
JRudd
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In reply to a message from JRudd sent Tue 3 May 2016:

I have just done the same with my car, didn’t have to drill
out the ID plate as I was able to pop the rivets out by
carefully evenly prising the plate away. Then it was a case
of cleaning it all back to bare metal, rust treating it, red
oxide paint and then 3 coats of original colour.

My main advice is to treat the back of the ID plate in the
same way but finally before re-installing, put foam tape
underneath to stop the water being trapped underneath
causing the new rust / oxidisation again. Finally dont touch
the front of the ID plate as this needs to be original &
authentic.–
Mike, UK - 1970 XKE S2 FHC
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In reply to a message from Nickleback sent Tue 3 May 2016:

Thanks for the advice. I’m afraid that prying risks bending but
maybe I’ll give it a gentle try to see if it comes up easily.
Wouldn’t foam tape retain water?–
JRudd
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In reply to a message from JRudd sent Wed 4 May 2016:

Try gently prying from two opposite sides at the same time
and the rivet will pull through or snap if it’s 40+ years
old. If they have been previously replaced then you will
need to drill them out.

The plate was originally installed by Jaguar with this tape
on it which degrades over time and then the plate touches
the body work & the two diferent metals get wet / sweat and
corrode. If you put nothing under the plate you will only
speed this process up, choice is yours ?–
The original message included these comments:

Thanks for the advice. I’m afraid that prying risks bending but
maybe I’ll give it a gentle try to see if it comes up easily.
Wouldn’t foam tape retain water?


Mike, UK - 1970 XKE S2 FHC
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In reply to a message from JRudd sent Tue 3 May 2016:

The easiest and fastest way and to avoid damaging the ID plate
is to drill out the pop rivets.
If you use a drillbit size 3.3mm or 1/8’’ it will drill
through the rivet without enlarging the hole or damaging
anything.
If you don’t have the correct size drillbit, you can use a
slightly larger and carefully just drill through the collar of
the rivet, lift off the plate and punch the remaining part of
the rivet through the hole.
In cases where you don’t know what’s on the other side of the
surface the pop rivet is mounted in, just removing the collar
may be the best option.
This is by far the gentlest way to remove anything fastened
with a pop rivet.–
The original message included these comments:

Any advice? Pitfalls to be aware of? Thank you - I’m a novice, am
very careful but don’t want to get started without checking with
you all first. Thank you.


Ole-XKE S3 OTS 4sp w.OD
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In reply to a message from Ole-XKE1974 sent Thu 5 May 2016:

I agree drilling is usually best, however where the ID plate
is located (S2) there is not a lot of vertical space under
the heater fan box to get a drill on to it straight - one
slip ?? and you ruin the original ID plate which is the
car’s value if it’s a matching numbers one !–
The original message included these comments:

The easiest and fastest way and to avoid damaging the ID plate
is to drill out the pop rivets.
This is by far the gentlest way to remove anything fastened
with a pop rivet.


Mike, UK - 1970 XKE S2 FHC
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In reply to a message from Nickleback sent Thu 5 May 2016:

Admittedly not knowing if the S2 heater box is the same as
on my S3, I can only speak for the S3.
Removing the heater box isn’t a big deal. Three wires, 5
screws and the coolant hoses.
Alternatively, how about a Dremmel with a grinding bit to
remove the pop rivet collar ?–
Ole-XKE S3 OTS 4sp w.OD
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In reply to a message from Ole-XKE1974 sent Thu 5 May 2016:

Thanks everyone…so the main pitfall seems to be about the
most careful way to get out the pop rivets - I can handle
that. Also - my heater box is currently out so that makes
things easier! Hum…originally tape underneath the plate.
Interesting I’ll investigate.–
JRudd
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