[E-Type] Bad performance with Weber Conversion + oil from dip stick?

Hi, I just got my car back from a garage after installing a kit
from SC parts, but its not going right. It starts and idle ok but
in the mid revs a lot of rumbling and misfire, but if I give full
throttle it definitely goes off! Most misfire is from the LH
silencer. Any Ideas? The carbs arrived with not even a mesh in
the trumpets is this wise or should I put on proper filters?

I also have a problem with oil coming up from around the dipstick.
I have cleaned the mesh in front of engine where the air goes out
but what else can be done?

Thor–
Thothing
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In reply to a message from Thothing sent Sun 18 May 2008:

I have the same two problems although I still running 3 SU’s. The
oil from around the dipstick is probably from a clogged crankcase
breather pipe - the metal one that goes from the front of the motor
to the air intakes. Mine was plugged up completely - not sure how
it happened - It was that way when I bought the car as a non-
runner. The motor is now rebuilt and will not run right. Idles
fine. Revs fine. But at steady rpm’s of about 2500 and up, it
starts to stumble badly, misfire and ‘backfire’ out the exhaust. I
am baffled. I replaced the distributor - no change. Had the carbs
apart twice (they are rebuilt) and everything look fine. Cam
timing is fine. Ignition timing is fine. I can’t think of anything
else to check that hasn’t been checked. Anyone have any ideas?–
The original message included these comments:

Hi, I just got my car back from a garage after installing a kit
from SC parts, but its not going right. It starts and idle ok but
in the mid revs a lot of rumbling and misfire, but if I give full
throttle it definitely goes off! Most misfire is from the LH
silencer. Any Ideas? The carbs arrived with not even a mesh in
the trumpets is this wise or should I put on proper filters?
I also have a problem with oil coming up from around the dipstick.
I have cleaned the mesh in front of engine where the air goes out
but what else can be done?
Thor


webskivt
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Hi, I think you should work on fixing the oil problem before the carb issue. I woud thinkthey are linked. So, the oil problem…how much oil coming out of the dipstick hole? It does sound like either the engine is overfilled (probaby unlikely but worth a shot)…or the breather is plugged up. Try starting the engine with the breather off the engine…see if the oil still comes out the dipstick…also see if it makes any difference in the running of the car.

BTW, I’m not suggesting running around with the breather cover off for any kind of long time…just long enough to see if it makes any difference to the two problems you have.

If it runs better or the oil problem goes away (but now you have oil donw the front of the engine) I would bet that the breather “piping” is blocked somewhere.

I have Weners on my car and the breather at the front of the car gets piped into a catchment tank fastened to one of the frame rails…how did they do this on your car?

Les Halls
Atlanta Ga
'68 S1.5 2+2> To: e-type@jag-lovers.org

Subject: [E-Type] Bad performance with Weber Conversion + oil from dip stick?
From: thothing@c2i.net
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 18:48:38 +0200

Hi, I just got my car back from a garage after installing a kit
from SC parts, but its not going right. It starts and idle ok but
in the mid revs a lot of rumbling and misfire, but if I give full
throttle it definitely goes off! Most misfire is from the LH
silencer. Any Ideas? The carbs arrived with not even a mesh in
the trumpets is this wise or should I put on proper filters?

I also have a problem with oil coming up from around the dipstick.
I have cleaned the mesh in front of engine where the air goes out
but what else can be done?

Thor


Thothing
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In reply to a message from Thothing sent Sun 18 May 2008:

Hi and thank you for answering! I also thought the breather pipe
and/or the mesh was clogged but yesterday when I cleaned the mesh I
also blowed easy through the pipe. The guy who helped me at the
garage said that there where no way to let the pipe back into the
manifoil like the old way so he just clamped it to the frame
downwards. It is coming as much as a small regular drip down to
the exhaust pipe and the smell and smoke is no good! The pipe that
used to go from the manifoil (to?) is now just blocked with a steel
bit, but I had the problem before I changed the carbs.
Thor–
Thothing
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From: thothing@c2i.net

Hi and thank you for answering! I also thought the breather pipe
and/or the mesh was clogged but yesterday when I cleaned the mesh I
also blowed easy through the pipe. The guy who helped me at the
garage said that there where no way to let the pipe back into the
manifoil like the old way so he just clamped it to the frame
downwards.

Ok, then that sounds the same as mine, except that I got tired of having the oil just being blown everywhere so I purchased a catcher tank (sometimes called a puke tank) and mounted it to the frame rail. Then took a long length of rubber pipe and connected the breather to it…no more problem.

It is coming as much as a small regular drip down to
the exhaust pipe and the smell and smoke is no good! The pipe that
used to go from the manifoil (to?) is now just blocked with a steel
bit, but I had the problem before I changed the carbs.

The way you’ve worded your reply leaves me unsure as to the source of the oil drips getting onto the exhaust. Seeing as you mentioned in your original post that the dipstick hole was leaking oil, I’ll assume your reply refers to the same source…so, my first question is…are you sure the oil is coming from the dipstick hole? It’s quite common for the cam oil feed lines, mounted to the back of the block/head to crack and leak oil. In my case, when this occurred, the resulting oil came down onto the exhaust and produced the exact same result you’re getting. So, please make sure the oil you are seeing is actually coming out of the dipstick hole and not from the leaking cam feed lines.

Les Halls
Atlanta Ga
'68 S1.5 2+2______________________________________________________
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In reply to a message from webskivt sent Sun 18 May 2008:

This type of effect is usually caused by a weak mixture.
Partial throttle openings especially without load are
difficult. Revving the engine opens the throttles up so any
mis match of airflow is masked. When idling the air flow is
so small that one carb can cut it.

If you are quite sure that the engine compressions are good,
the ignition correct and there are no air leaks. Start with
the float levels and make sure they are adjusted correctly.
Dont assume that the upside down position is good use a bowl
and allow the fuel to close the needle using the floats.
Measure the depth of the fuel. Make sure all are the same.

With webers the jets are set with SU’s adjust to a known
position. On both carbs use a steel rule to set the
butterfly at 90 degrees closed. Adjust one turn on each idle
screw at a time to a point the engine will run. Whatever is
done on one carb need to be done on all.

Get a flow gauge and adjust to get the same air flow. Check
at different engine speeds. Adjust the jet for the correct
mixture. Using a screwdriver lift the dash pot 1/8th inch.
If the engine falters and slows those cyls are weak. If the
engine speed increases then its rich. On SU’s the lift of
the damper should increase the speed and then settle back if
the mixture is good. Frankly its easier to use a colortune
plug. If the fault persist check the neoprene damper seal,
jet and needle and spring. Make sure they are correct. The
same is true for webers jets and emulsion tubes.

It can take a long time to do this good luck.

Always use a mesh on the trumpets, if you’ve ever seen a
engine after ingesting something hard you will know what I mean

Alex P–
The original message included these comments:

fine. Revs fine. But at steady rpm’s of about 2500 and up, it
starts to stumble badly, misfire and ‘backfire’ out the exhaust. I


alex paterson
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