I am sure that this has been discussed before. I really don’t like
beating on my knock offs with a lead hammer. I see that there are
at least two tools that will eliminate the need to beat them up.
Protective knock-off tool - fits over the tow ears and you beat
on the tool.
‘‘British Wheel Wrench’’ - grabs the ears and allows you to
unscrew them without beating.
Which one is better? I am leaning toward the wrench because it
eliminates the beating operation all together.
thanks
Dave Christensen
69 OTS (with 2 eared knock-offs)–
davchr
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from davchr sent Fri 25 Jul 2003:
Dave,
I’ve never tried either, but I’ve have talked to several people
who have tried both, and none of them had much good to say about
either one. The metal tools will damage the knock-offs far more
easily than a lead mallet, and the wooden ones will get pretty well
destroyed the first time you use them on a really tight knock-off.
I’ve always used a lead mallet, and never so much as
scratched a knock-off. Also, I don’t believe you can tighten them
adequately without whacking on 'em pretty good. No wrench will
apply the kind of torque an impact with a lead mallet will.–
Ray Livingston
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Fri 25 Jul 2003:
Dave, I’ll go with Ray on this one! Having worked on these buggers
for a bit, nothing…NOTHING…works as well a s whackin’m! If you
use a lead hammer, no harm will come to your knockoffs. If you
search the archives back a month or two, someone had a SPLENDID
idea to make your own lead hammers, using a pop can and a metal
handle…easy, cheap, and VERY effective!–
The original message included these comments:
I've never tried either, but I've have talked to several people
who have tried both, and none of them had much good to say about
either one. The metal tools will damage the knock-offs far more
easily than a lead mallet, and the wooden ones will get pretty well
destroyed the first time you use them on a really tight knock-off.
I’ve always used a lead mallet, and never so much as
scratched a knock-off. Also, I don’t believe you can tighten them
adequately without whacking on 'em pretty good. No wrench will
apply the kind of torque an impact with a lead mallet will.
–
Paul Wigton, whom Tweety rules!
Brighton, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Dave wrote: “I am sure that this has been discussed before. I really don’t
like beating on my knock offs with a lead hammer. I see that there are at
least two tools that will eliminate the need to beat them up. 1. Protective
knock-off tool - fits over the tow ears and you beat on the tool. 2.
‘‘British Wheel Wrench’’ - grabs the ears and allows you to unscrew them
without beating. Which one is better? I am leaning toward the wrench
because it eliminates the beating operation all together.”+++++++++++++++++++++++
Dave: Like you, I always felt there was something uncivilized about beating
on the hub nuts to get them on and off. I built a wrench for shop use. It
is four feet long so it is not practical to carry it in the car, although I
guess I could have made a take-apart handle for it. Tonight I will post
pictures of it on Jag-Lovers. It is for the earless Series II hub nuts,
but I imagine a similar tool could be fabricated for the 2 ear nuts.
Dave,
Agree with Ray, but I’ve also read that the protective one disintegrates very quickly so is basically worthless. I haven’t purchased a lead hammer yet and will one of these days but in the interim I’m using a 5lb dead blow hammer. Its not perfect but will get them off without damage.
pauls
In reply to a message from davchr sent Fri 25 Jul 2003:
Dave,
I’ve never tried either, but I’ve have talked to several people
who have tried both, and none of them had much good to say about
either one. The metal tools will damage the knock-offs far more
easily than a lead mallet, and the wooden ones will get pretty well
destroyed the first time you use them on a really tight knock-off.
I’ve always used a lead mallet, and never so much as
scratched a knock-off. Also, I don’t believe you can tighten them
adequately without whacking on 'em pretty good. No wrench will
apply the kind of torque an impact with a lead mallet will.
I purchased the British Wheel Wrench and it marred my knock-offs! As
far as I am concerned, the lead hammer is the only way to go. The lead
hammer will not mar your knock offs, but I can’t say the same if you hit
your fender with it! ;-))
I’ve got new knock offs and am not real crazey about beating on them with a lead or brass hammer either. In addition to the hammer, I use about a 2’ piece of 2"X2" wood. I insert the end of the 2"X2" between the hammer and knockoff and beat on the wood… crude, but It works for me.
Larry Kohler
I’ve got new knock offs and am not real crazey about beating on them
with a lead or brass hammer either. In addition to the hammer, I use
about a 2’ piece of 2"X2" wood. I insert the end of the 2"X2" between
the hammer and knockoff and beat on the wood… crude, but It works
for me.
Larry Kohler
Larry -
I have used that method, too. An advantage of your method is that it
gets the hammer away from the fender! Pine doesn’t last long though.
Might be a good idea to get a piece of oak.
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Fri 25 Jul 2003:
I’m afraid I have to disagree with that, The tool I made to tighten
my knock-offs is capable,with a 4 ft lever and my body weight, of
applying 680 ftlbs of torque, much more than is needed. I have just
purchased a set of 2 eared knock-offs and will be making a similar
wrench to suit them pictures can be found at the following—Peter
scratched a knock-off. Also, I don’t believe you can tighten them
adequately without whacking on 'em pretty good. No wrench will
apply the kind of torque an impact with a lead mallet will.
–
Peter Conway 69 2+2
Georgetown Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Looks like a great setup, am sure it will do the job. What would you use on
the side of the road, flat tyre on a trip?
Mike & KoolKat----- Original Message -----
From: “Peter Conway” peterconway@stn.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Best knock off removal tool?
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Fri 25 Jul 2003:
I’m afraid I have to disagree with that, The tool I made to tighten
my knock-offs is capable,with a 4 ft lever and my body weight, of
applying 680 ftlbs of torque, much more than is needed. I have just
purchased a set of 2 eared knock-offs and will be making a similar
wrench to suit them pictures can be found at the following—Peter
In reply to a message from Paul Spurlock sent Fri 25 Jul 2003:
Dave,
I would agree with Paul, the 5 or 7 LB dead blow hammer would be my
first choice. I have one that has lead shot inside and a plastic
soft face. It packs a fair whack and causes no damage.
Dave–
The original message included these comments:
Agree with Ray, but I’ve also read that the protective one disintegrates very quickly so is basically worthless. I haven’t purchased a lead hammer yet and will one of these days but in the interim I’m using a 5lb dead blow hammer. Its not perfect but will get them off without damage.
–
David Kerr
Pershore, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Peter Conway sent Fri 25 Jul 2003:
Peter,
That is truly the ‘‘knock-off wrench from hell’’, but I’m
curious: If you put them on with that in your garage, how do you
get them off, if you have a flat on the road? That tool is hardly
something you can carry with you in the car. If you do make a
similar tool for the two-eared knock-offs, you’ll have to do
something to isolate the knock-off from the tool (as the
bronze ‘‘wrench’’ does for you on the ‘‘safety’’ knock-offs), or you’ll
surely damage the ears, just like the other metal wrenches do.
That’s the beauty of the lead mallet: It’s virtually impossible to
damage the knock-off (and I have yet to see a knock-off it won’t
get off), it’s dirt cheap (about $15), and stows easily inside the
spare wheel well. There’s little chance of damaging the fenders on
the front, if you simply open the bonnet. On the rear, a length of
2x4 can be used to lessen the chances of body damage, though I’ve
never felt that necessary if you exercise proper care.–
The original message included these comments:
I’m afraid I have to disagree with that, The tool I made to tighten
my knock-offs is capable,with a 4 ft lever and my body weight, of
applying 680 ftlbs of torque, much more than is needed. I have just
purchased a set of 2 eared knock-offs and will be making a similar
wrench to suit them pictures can be found at the following—Peter www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1047232415
Peter Conway 69 2+2
–
Ray Livingston
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from David Kerr sent Fri 25 Jul 2003:
I don't believe a lead mallet is any more likely to damage the
knock-off than a plastic dead-blow hammer, depending on the type of
plastic used. Some of them are made from quite hard plastic.
Also, the dead blow hammer is really not designed for
heavy ‘‘whacking’’ on a relatively small object, like a knock-off
ear, so I’d bet they don’t hold up terribly well either. On the
other hand, I’ve been using the same lead mallet for over 15
years. It looks like hell, but still works just great, and has yet
to leave a mark.–
The original message included these comments:
Dave,
I would agree with Paul, the 5 or 7 LB dead blow hammer would be my
first choice. I have one that has lead shot inside and a plastic
soft face. It packs a fair whack and causes no damage.
Dave
–
Ray Livingston
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Fri 25 Jul 2003:
Ray, the ‘wrench’ itself is easily stowed with the spare wheel as
the handle ( 4ft tube ) is removable. On the road when I get a flat
the wrench is supported on its outboard end with the Jag jack and I
have a telescopic handle I have made that is 4 sections that will
collapse to 12’’ when not in use.
The wrench I will make for the 2 eared knock-offs will be ‘lined’
with UHMW or Delrin to make it completly scratch proof—Peter–
The original message included these comments:
That is truly the ''knock-off wrench from hell'', but I'm
curious: If you put them on with that in your garage, how do you
get them off, if you have a flat on the road? That tool is hardly
something you can carry with you in the car. If you do make a
similar tool for the two-eared knock-offs, you’ll have to do
something to isolate the knock-off from the tool (as the
bronze ‘‘wrench’’ does for you on the ‘‘safety’’ knock-offs), or you’ll
surely damage the ears, just like the other metal wrenches do.
–
Peter Conway 69 2+2
Georgetown Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Knock offs are about $30, aren’t they? As Ray said, I’ve been using a lead hammer (mushroom shaped, now) for 15 years and have yet
to see damage on a knock-off…if it tickles your fancy, go for it, but it’s not necessary.
In fact, my lead hammer is one of my most used tools, which probably says more about what goes on in my garage than I care to admit.
Roger Los
~ Ray, the ‘wrench’ itself is easily stowed with the spare wheel as
~ the handle ( 4ft tube ) is removable. On the road when I get a flat
~ the wrench is supported on its outboard end with the Jag jack and I
~ have a telescopic handle I have made that is 4 sections that will
~ collapse to 12’’ when not in use.
~ The wrench I will make for the 2 eared knock-offs will be ‘lined’
~ with UHMW or Delrin to make it completly scratch proof—Peter
I’ve drilled 2 off the knock off ears and bolted a thick wall steel pipe
(sprinkler grade) using high strenght bolt. the pipe has to be bend a
little bit to clear the fenders and cut to the width of the boot for easy
storage behinf the seat. it also has to be hammered down a bit between the
bolts to clear the outside of the knock off.
MUCH easier than using the hammer to change a tire. when I get the car in
for new tires, I pull the wheels myself, it’s a breeze.
Pascal
72 2+2----- Original Message -----
From: “Michael” koolkataz@qwest.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Best knock off removal tool?
Looks like a great setup, am sure it will do the job. What would you use
on
the side of the road, flat tyre on a trip?
Mike & KoolKat
----- Original Message -----
From: “Peter Conway” peterconway@stn.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Best knock off removal tool?
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Fri 25 Jul 2003:
I’m afraid I have to disagree with that, The tool I made to tighten
my knock-offs is capable,with a 4 ft lever and my body weight, of
applying 680 ftlbs of torque, much more than is needed. I have just
purchased a set of 2 eared knock-offs and will be making a similar
wrench to suit them pictures can be found at the following—Peter
Bjarn, I am quite able to hit the fender with the hammer no matter what method I use. My knockoffs have learned that I’m not really serious about removing them until I’ve hit the fender with the hammer at least twice :-(.
Larry
problem withthe hammer isn’t the marks it left it’s the amount of energy it
takes. sometimes they dont’ come off right away and aftert 10 hits in the
hot sun…
especailly on the earless KO…
Pascal----- Original Message -----
From: “Roger Los” roger@los.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 2:39 PM
Subject: RE: [E-Type] Best knock off removal tool?
Knock offs are about $30, aren’t they? As Ray said, I’ve been using a lead
hammer (mushroom shaped, now) for 15 years and have yet
to see damage on a knock-off…if it tickles your fancy, go for it, but
it’s not necessary.
In fact, my lead hammer is one of my most used tools, which probably says
more about what goes on in my garage than I care to admit.
Roger Los
~ Ray, the ‘wrench’ itself is easily stowed with the spare wheel as
~ the handle ( 4ft tube ) is removable. On the road when I get a flat
~ the wrench is supported on its outboard end with the Jag jack and I
~ have a telescopic handle I have made that is 4 sections that will
~ collapse to 12’’ when not in use.
~ The wrench I will make for the 2 eared knock-offs will be ‘lined’
~ with UHMW or Delrin to make it completly scratch proof—Peter
In a message dated 7/25/03 1:56:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, peterconway@stn.net writes:
<< The tool I made to tighten
my knock-offs is capable,with a 4 ft lever and my body weight, of
applying 680 ftlbs of torque, much more than is needed >>
Do you take that with you when you go for a drive? If you don’t and you
need to change a tire, what do you do?
There is a fellow here in the D.C. area that makes a really great (and
quite portable) knock-off tool for the series 2 wheels found on the
S2 and S3 E-Types. He designed it to lock onto the ears for both
coming off and going on. It has a removable handle that simply
reverses for either on or off. The whole thing fits in the spare tire
well with no problem at all. It works like a dream…! He does give
a discount to NCJOC members and maybe would pass that along
to the list.
Just a very happy user.
Mike O’____________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: “Paul Bjarnason” bearson@crosslink.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 1:54 PM
Subject: RE: [E-Type] Best knock off removal tool?
I’ve got new knock offs and am not real crazey about beating on them
with a lead or brass hammer either. In addition to the hammer, I use
about a 2’ piece of 2"X2" wood. I insert the end of the 2"X2" between
the hammer and knockoff and beat on the wood… crude, but It works
for me.
Larry Kohler
Larry -
I have used that method, too. An advantage of your method is that it
gets the hammer away from the fender! Pine doesn’t last long though.
Might be a good idea to get a piece of oak.