Does anyone have any experience with blast cabinets? I’m
looking to purchase one before I begin rebuilding the old
girl. I would like to keep the price under $1700 if possible.–
Rhughes
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In reply to a message from Rhughes sent Sat 23 Feb 2013:
Well I got through my restoration with a cheapo from HF, but
just barely. I’m sure it was under $200, the gun was the
weakest link. With a budget of $1700 I’d think you could get
a really nice one.
Cheers
Lynn–
The original message included these comments:
Does anyone have any experience with blast cabinets? I’m
looking to purchase one before I begin rebuilding the old
girl. I would like to keep the price under $1700 if possible.
Rhughes
–
Lynn G.
68/85 ots, 73 2+2, Boise, Id., United States
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In reply to a message from Rhughes sent Sat 23 Feb 2013:
I got mine at Harbor Freight on sale -
http://tinyurl.com/a2h5c3a After 20 hours or so I had to
replace the nozzle for about $15 but it’s working great now.
Good luck!–
The original message included these comments:
Does anyone have any experience with blast cabinets? I’m
looking to purchase one before I begin rebuilding the old
girl. I would like to keep the price under $1700 if possible.
–
Craig Gilbert - '68 E-Type FHC - RIP
Birmingham, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from L.Lynn sent Sat 23 Feb 2013:
I think it is PowerBlock (Musclecar, Trucks, HorsePower,
Xtreme 4x4) that has a fancy blast cabinet by Blast-It-All. I
dont know how one judges the quality of that kind of system
but the name is clever and memorable. Might be a good place
to start your research.–
70 E-type OTS
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In reply to a message from Rhughes sent Sat 23 Feb 2013:
The big question is what air compressor do you have, or do you
need to purchase that in your total budget? There is nothing
more frustrating than media blasting with an inadequate
compressor, as I know. I bought a relatively inexpensive
cabinet and gun ($200 or so, I think). I spent several times
this on the compressor, but should have spent more. If you go
for a low-cost cabinet, I’d recommend spending some additional
money on upgrading the lighting inside the cabinet, and
getting some screen protectors for the window. You’ll need
replacement nozzles and media of course.
-David–
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Rhughes sent Sat 23 Feb 2013:
A blast cabinet is essential if you’re doing a restoration. With
your budget you can go higher end, especially if you already have a
4-5+ hp compressor. There are several established manufacturers.
Get the biggest cabinet you can comfortably fit in your shop and
get a good dust collector to mate with it. Foot operated air valve
is a must. Good lighting is really important, the brighter the
better. Good door and window seals are important unless you don’t
mind destroying your lungs. Applying window insulating shrink film
to the inside of the window and changing it out every week or so is
a cheap but effective way to keep things clear. Monitor nozzle
wear, get half a dozen spares. Get an air dryer for optimum
performance. Use ALOX for rust removal and nothing more aggressive
than glass beads for everything else. Cheers. Nick.–
The original message included these comments:
Does anyone have any experience with blast cabinets? I’m
looking to purchase one before I begin rebuilding the old
girl. I would like to keep the price under $1700 if possible.
–
Nick Saltarelli - 1968 E-type S1� OTS, 1954 XK120SE OTS
Niagara, Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from Rhughes sent Sat 23 Feb 2013:
Hughes; I am in the rebuilding stage of my restoration
project. Before I started I bought a blast cabinet from
TIP Products, a 850. Blasting requires about 90psi and 15
cfm volume. Less and you are spending a lot of time
waiting for the compressor to catch up. I also bought a
5hp 2stage compressor. This keeps up quite well. Before I
bought the new compressor I had rebuilt a IR compressor
with new rings and valves but it couldn’t keep up. The
money I spent on the rebuild would have been better spent
on a new compressor.
I used it to clean parts, remove rust and remove paint.
The car body was soda blasted by a independent contractor.
If you have questions you think I can help you with let me
know. Good luck. Joel.–
The original message included these comments:
Does anyone have any experience with blast cabinets? I’m
looking to purchase one before I begin rebuilding the old
–
49mgtc/mgbgt/jag e type 70 2+2
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In reply to a message from Nick S. sent Sat 23 Feb 2013:
I’ve been using one of these for a decade, well made and parts
for guns and cabinets are available,
Lester–
http://tinyurl.com/mqlgly '66 4.2 FHC
Louisiana, United States
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In reply to a message from Rhughes sent Sat 23 Feb 2013:
Thanks for all the good info. Love this forum.–
Rhughes
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Sounds like you’ve received a lot of good advice…I would add that
you should purchase a couple of spare tungsten replacement tips. The
ones typically supplied are way too soft and quickly wear out.
Before purchase, think about how large the largest peice is you’ll
want to clean, then make sure the one you buy can accomodate that.
Try to get one that has both top and side loading. Makes life a lot
easier.On Sat, Feb 23, 2013 at 7:51 PM, Rhughes rjhughes2@msn.com wrote:
Does anyone have any experience with blast cabinets? I’m
looking to purchase one before I begin rebuilding the old
girl. I would like to keep the price under $1700 if possible.Rhughes
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–
Les…'68 S1.5 2+2
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UNCLASSIFIED
Rhughes
I stumbled across this website years ago: http://www.consolidatedstripping.com/
This guy noit onlky offers a great service but his website is filled wiht useful info on cabinets and blasting media.
Craig
UNCLASSIFIED______________________________________________________
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This is my setup, purchased used off CL for about $500. With the pressure
pot, my 5HP compressor keeps up easily (I run the media through at about
40PSI). Only downside–I have to refill the pot when it empties…the media
accumulates in the bottom of the cabinet. I have two magnetic-base floods in
the cabinet for extra lighting.
I’m impressed with the quality of the cabinet, I would definitely give these
guys a look-see.
Roger Los______________________________________________________
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On a very early 3.8, did the pedal box have a spring on the clutch pedal
like later cars did? There was none on my car, but it doesn’t mean there
shouldn’t have been one.
(My brake pedal was off by one spline. Took the box out and “fixed” it
today, but realized as I was looking that the clutch pedal didn’t have a
spring on it, and maybe never did.)
Roger Los______________________________________________________
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In reply to a message from Roger Los sent Sun 24 Feb 2013:
Roger,
Mine never had a spring and hasn’t now and works fine. I think they
were introduced later on.
Dave–
The original message included these comments:
On a very early 3.8, did the pedal box have a spring on the clutch pedal
like later cars did? There was none on my car, but it doesn’t mean there
shouldn’t have been one.
(My brake pedal was off by one spline. Took the box out and ‘‘fixed’’ it
today, but realized as I was looking that the clutch pedal didn’t have a
spring on it, and maybe never did.)
Roger Los
–
'61 OTS
Pershore, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Roger Los sent Sun 24 Feb 2013:
If you like to make things, they’re easy to build. Mine’s
far larger, for less money, than retail varieties would have
been. IIRC the plans were from TIP and last I heard are
still available.
Thon–
tab a
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In reply to a message from tab a sent Sun 24 Feb 2013:
Hi,
I’v owned a desktop TIP unit for many years. It has served me
well more most small bits. Anything big, is farmed out. My
biggest peeve, is not have a ‘‘jiggle’’ box on the side to
vibrate the media to the pick up intake. Yeah, a top loader is
a better feature, as opening the side door the media tends to
exit, as well.–
Ken: 1E77559 '67 2+2, '04 XJR,
Severna Park, MD, United States
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The line running between the front and back of the car is held in with those
little spring wire clips…except the holes for the clips in the side rails
of my car are WAY too big to hold the clips in place. Not sure how or why,
but that’s life, I guess.
Making large blind holes smaller in a finished area of the car seems
problematic. The two simplest solutions I can think of:
Drill new, smaller holes near the existing holes, use the spring clips,
put plugs in the existing holes
Use my new tool for installing captive nuts in sheet metal to put captive
nuts in the existing holes, and use “P” clips and small bolts or machine
screws to fix the line to the car (I see something similar to this on a lot
of cars)
Unfortunately, spring steel being what it is, there’s not really a way, as
far as I can see, to modify the clips themselves.
Roger Los______________________________________________________
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For whatever reason, my oil filter head is missing the large round plate
which was a press fit in the filter head itself (which the felt pressed
against and which ensured that the oil actually went through the filter). I
understand this piece is not crucial if using modern paper cartridges, but
it would be nice to have in there, just because. Anyone have one?
Roger Los______________________________________________________
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I may, but I’d need to know exactly which filter head you have.
Perhaps if you could post a photo, or supply the approximate ID of the plate.
Mike Frank
At 08:09 AM 2/26/2013, you wrote:>For whatever reason, my oil filter head is missing the large round plate
which was a press fit in the filter head itself (which the felt pressed
against and which ensured that the oil actually went through the filter). I
understand this piece is not crucial if using modern paper cartridges, but
it would be nice to have in there, just because. Anyone have one?Roger Los
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In reply to a message from Roger Los sent Tue 26 Feb 2013:
Orientation can easily be reversed when you are upside down working
up. Could it be that you are looking on the rail where the fuel
line runs instead of the brake line side? As I recall the fuel
line holes are larger. Hope this helps. If not, I�d go with
your first choice.–
Doug Wolfire - 1967 S1 2+2 1972 BMW R75/5 (toaster)
Washington, DC, United States
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