This afternoon, David Shield, Tom Pope and I attempted to
bleed the brakes on my Series II, without success. We’ve
determined to a fair degree of certainty that the brake
lines leading to the rear calipers are free from blockage,
though fluid is difficult to get through, either by Mighty
Vac or pedal-pushing. This seems to point to air trapped in
the master.
What is the best way to remove air if present? Is is
possible to effectively ‘‘bench-bleed’’ the MC in situ, or is
it necessary to remove the MC to accomplish that. Any
advise or successful strategies would be appreciated.
The car has been out of commission for several years being
rebuilt. When the master was out, I did rebuild it myself
with a kit, so there is the further potential that I did it
poorly (or in accordance with faulty directions) or that I
used a defective kit, as has been reported by others.–
Kevin Kemper
Auburn, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Kevin,
I have had the same problem bleeding the rears on both my cars and it
amazes me that people are able to bleed them either by pumping or
vacuum or both (I tried all combinations of this). I finally made a
pressure bleeder out of a new 1/2 gallon hand pump sprayer and an old
cap that I had. This solved my problem and the brakes were a cinch
to bleed, if you would like a better description and pictures of the
goofy set up contact me off line.
Cheers,
Lynn
68 ots
73 fhc
This afternoon, David Shield, Tom Pope and I attempted to
bleed the brakes on my Series II, without success. We’ve
determined to a fair degree of certainty that the brake
lines leading to the rear calipers are free from blockage,
though fluid is difficult to get through, either by Mighty
Vac or pedal-pushing. This seems to point to air trapped in
the master.
What is the best way to remove air if present? Is is
possible to effectively ‘‘bench-bleed’’ the MC in situ, or is
it necessary to remove the MC to accomplish that. Any
advise or successful strategies would be appreciated.
The car has been out of commission for several years being
rebuilt. When the master was out, I did rebuild it myself
with a kit, so there is the further potential that I did it
poorly (or in accordance with faulty directions) or that I
used a defective kit, as has been reported by others.
Who knows, maybe that’s my problem as well but my brakes seem to work
quite well.On Apr 20, 2008, at 4:10 PM, Kevin Kemper wrote:
Kevin Kemper
Auburn, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Kevin Kemper sent Mon 21 Apr 2008:
Kevin!
When you disconnect the brake line at the master, do you get
fluid out pressing the pedal?
You can just loosen the lines to see if fluid is present at
both lines.
Walter--
The original message included these comments:
What is the best way to remove air if present? Is is
–
Walter Schuster 78XJ6 FI Ser.II, 69E Ser.II 2+2original
Albuquerque/New Mexico, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Kevin Kemper sent Mon 21 Apr 2008:
Kevin,
You should certainly be able to crack a fitting on the master
cylinder, wrap a rag around it, and get the juice flowing. Then re-
tighten the fitting, and proceed with bleeding normally. Are you
sure the little bits that go into the inlet ports are installed
correctly, and not obstructing the inlet?–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Kevin Kemper sent Mon 21 Apr 2008:
Hi Kevin
I had problems bleeding the rear brakes when the front brakes were
already bled. As you probably know, you are supposed to bleed the
rear first. I dont really know, but I decided the safety in the
system was causing the problem. I cracked one bleed screw in the
front to mimic air in the front by allowing some fluid to flow into
a jar. That solved the problem and I could bleed the rear. Didnt
really waste too much fluid.
I primed the master and booster by using an eye dropper to drip
fluid into each opening. Seemed to work.
Good luck
Curt–
Curt Johnson 67 E-type S1 FHC, 57 TBird, 53 MG TD
Corvallis OR, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Curt Johnson sent Mon 21 Apr 2008:
Kevin,
BTW - With the Lockheed systenm, it does make a difference
which circuit you bleed first, and that varies car to car. You
need to bleed the primary circuit, the one that’s connected to both
the master and servo master cylinders, first, then the other
circuit. Or, you must have vaccum available (i.e. - the engine
running) to activate the booster. On some cars, the front brakes
are the primary circuit, on others it’s the rears. This changed
through production, and it isn’t always re-plumbed correctly in
repairs and restoration. If you try to bleed the secondary system
with first bleeding the primary, and without having vacuum
available, you’ll get nowhere.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Kevin Kemper sent Mon 21 Apr 2008:
I had a similar problem with my rears, found out that the lines had
corrosion in them from years of storage and non use. I pulled the
lines on both ends to clear them after rebuilding the master and
the calipers. I bought a Motive products Power Bleeder and I
already had a MityVac, but I wasn’t impressed with either of those
products. The one product that took care of bleeding…and did it
well, was a set of speedbleeders on the all four calipers. Its the
easiest way (one person,) to bleed brakes. I’m sold on them!
Barry
'71 S2 Coupe–
The original message included these comments:
though fluid is difficult to get through, either by Mighty
Vac or pedal-pushing. This seems to point to air trapped in
the master.