I need to get this thing off to repair the hinge cages and
the dents. Anyone have pics of how this thing
unbolts/screws? So far it’s taken me weeks to get a couple
of the %%$#ing screws out. I’ve had to resort to
grinding/cutting them they are so rusted in place. I need to
see the bonnet apart to get a sense of where I am.
Thanks
Bob–
'69 2+2-Big Red, '69 OTS-Priscilla, '99 XK8-Othello
Mantua NJ, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Bob, About the only suggestion I can offer is to use lots of good penetrating
oil (Kroil, Knock’er Loose, etc, forget WD40) let it sit & soak in and apply
more. I trust that you have removed the headlight & buckets to gain access? If
the nuts and bolts are severely rusted, it may be necessary to use the blue
wrench or cut them off. Not fun, Good Luck. Count your fingers before and after
you complete the job.
Larry----- Original Message ----
From: Robert Moore robertmoore@comcast.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sat, February 25, 2012 10:31:14 AM
Subject: [E-Type] Bonnet lower valance removal
I need to get this thing off to repair the hinge cages and
the dents. Anyone have pics of how this thing
unbolts/screws? So far it’s taken me weeks to get a couple
of the %%$#ing screws out. I’ve had to resort to
grinding/cutting them they are so rusted in place. I need to
see the bonnet apart to get a sense of where I am.
Thanks
Bob
'69 2+2-Big Red, '69 OTS-Priscilla, '99 XK8-Othello
Mantua NJ, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Robert Moore sent Sat 25 Feb 2012:
Bob, I have quite a few pix of my ongoing trial bonnet
assembly. Maybe not every nut and bolt but a good idea of
the sequence–well at least my sequence–center section,
wings, lower valence, air ducts then diaphragms. If you
just want to pull the valence my pix might help you figure
out a sequence. Let me know…
Rick OBrien
65 FHC in CT–
The original message included these comments:
I need to get this thing off to repair the hinge cages and
the dents. Anyone have pics of how this thing
unbolts/screws? So far it’s taken me weeks to get a couple
of the %%$#ing screws out. I’ve had to resort to
grinding/cutting them they are so rusted in place. I need to
see the bonnet apart to get a sense of where I am.
Bob, depending upon how extensive the rust is, you might want to check with
Monocoque-Metalworks as they produce the ‘hinge panel’ you are looking for. They
have an ad on eBay #110831652585 for a different part. No affiliation, not have
I done business with them.
Larry----- Original Message ----
From: Larry Kohler <@JKOHLER>
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sat, February 25, 2012 10:52:32 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Bonnet lower valance removal
Bob, About the only suggestion I can offer is to use lots of good penetrating
oil (Kroil, Knock’er Loose, etc, forget WD40) let it sit & soak in and apply
more. I trust that you have removed the headlight & buckets to gain access? If
the nuts and bolts are severely rusted, it may be necessary to use the blue
wrench or cut them off. Not fun, Good Luck. Count your fingers before and after
you complete the job.
Larry
----- Original Message ----
From: Robert Moore robertmoore@comcast.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sat, February 25, 2012 10:31:14 AM
Subject: [E-Type] Bonnet lower valance removal
I need to get this thing off to repair the hinge cages and
the dents. Anyone have pics of how this thing
unbolts/screws? So far it’s taken me weeks to get a couple
of the %%$#ing screws out. I’ve had to resort to
grinding/cutting them they are so rusted in place. I need to
see the bonnet apart to get a sense of where I am.
Thanks
Bob
'69 2+2-Big Red, '69 OTS-Priscilla, '99 XK8-Othello
Mantua NJ, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Sat 25 Feb 2012:
Larry:
Moncocque-Metalworks is not too far down the road from me. I
was going to pull the valance and take it down to him to see
if he could make me what I need. The hinge/nut areas had
been welded up before with some extra metal (crappy job), so
this could be a bit of surgery to get it right.
I’ve spent weeks basting the screws/bolts with every
remover/rust dis-solver known to man. The ones that did,
did. The others ain’t budging. I pretty much figure that I
am going ahead and sacrificing the ones that I can’t get out
by cutting/grinding their heads off. I am just sick and
tired of not moving ahead on this project-know the feeling?
Bob–
'69 2+2-Big Red, '69 OTS-Priscilla, '99 XK8-Othello
Mantua NJ, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Yes Bob, I know that feeling all too well. See my recent post regarding door
locks.
Larry----- Original Message ----
From: Robert Moore robertmoore@comcast.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sat, February 25, 2012 11:37:05 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Bonnet lower valance removal
In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Sat 25 Feb 2012:
Larry:
Moncocque-Metalworks is not too far down the road from me. I
was going to pull the valance and take it down to him to see
if he could make me what I need. The hinge/nut areas had
been welded up before with some extra metal (crappy job), so
this could be a bit of surgery to get it right.
I’ve spent weeks basting the screws/bolts with every
remover/rust dis-solver known to man. The ones that did,
did. The others ain’t budging. I pretty much figure that I
am going ahead and sacrificing the ones that I can’t get out
by cutting/grinding their heads off. I am just sick and
tired of not moving ahead on this project-know the feeling?
Bob
'69 2+2-Big Red, '69 OTS-Priscilla, '99 XK8-Othello
Mantua NJ, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Robert Moore sent Sat 25 Feb 2012:
My bonnet rebuild photos show it in progressive stages of
assembly, if that helps.
I think you’re mostly just looking at 1/4’’ coarse bolts and
a few large s/t screws holding the valance on. Th bolts
would probably shear off if you can get a good grip on them.
In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Sat 25 Feb 2012:
Hi Les,
The check is in the mail:-)
But don’t get too excited. My pix show a very simplistic
view of the bonnet assembly since a lot of parts and
fasteners are missing as I’m still in the midst of the first
trial fit.
Best of luck
Rick–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from Clive Wilkinson sent Sat 25 Feb 2012:
Clive:
It ALWAYS sounds sooo…easy! I was watching an episode of
Wheeler/Dealer on BBCA where they replaced the valance on an
S-lll.
Yeah.
Show bumpers being unbolted/cut camera to repainted valance
installed.
Easy.
Not so. There will be no shearing of of the screwheads-tried
that. Those screw are tough! It took forever for me to grind
off just one screw head yesterday after screwing up the
slots trying to remove it. I have gotten 6 screws out of all
of the ones that I’ve tried the conventional way-and those
were all in easy to get to spots. Now I just have to figure
out how to get a variety of power tools to the remaining ones.
This valance IS coming off!
Bob–
'69 2+2-Big Red, '69 OTS-Priscilla, '99 XK8-Othello
Mantua NJ, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Robert Moore sent Sun 26 Feb 2012:
Bob,
If the rust is that bad and you need a patch panel for the
hinge area are you getting to the point where it makes sense
to consider a new valence? Access and precision bolt head
grinding are a lot easier if you cut off the valence!
It’s that old tradeoff of money vs time vs sanity vs
collateral damage. Maybe the guys a Monocoque Metalworks
have some suggestions too.
Rick–
The original message included these comments:
Not so. There will be no shearing of of the screwheads-tried
that. Those screw are tough! It took forever for me to grind
off just one screw head yesterday after screwing up the
slots trying to remove it. I have gotten 6 screws out of all
of the ones that I’ve tried the conventional way-and those
were all in easy to get to spots. Now I just have to figure
out how to get a variety of power tools to the remaining ones.
This valance IS coming off!
Bob
In reply to a message from Rick OBrien sent Sun 26 Feb 2012:
Rick:
Actually the rust area is mostly right around the nut cages.
Everything else looks pretty decent. I figure that welding
in new metal is not that big of a deal. Yes, I’ve considered
a new valance, but as you know,they ain’t cheap! I think
that repairing the nut cage area is viable since Monocoque
Metalworks fabricates what I need:
Plus, at the same time I get access to the back side so that
I can straighten out all of those driveway dents/scrapes on
the bottom side properly. This is what has prompted removal.
If the valance turns out to not be repairable, well it had
to come off anyway.
Bob–
'69 2+2-Big Red, '69 OTS-Priscilla, '99 XK8-Othello
Mantua NJ, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Robert Moore sent Sun 26 Feb 2012:
Robert,
I never said it was easy…and I never watch those silly
restoration programs either. I know what you mean about them
omitting all the tedious boring stuff, just concentrating on
the interesting parts. Some of my buddies (who actually
never do any of this sort of work themselves)are always
telling me about them.
If you think mine was easy, just take a look at the
condition of what I started off with.
If the ‘‘tough screws’’ you are talking about are the large
Phillips or Pozidriv, they are S/Ts and are hardened, unlike
the 1/4’’ bolts. Maybe an impact wrench would help loosen
them. I got a lot of mine out by means of vice grips on the
heads.
Maybe someone has actually welded the valance here and there
and that is part of the problem.–
The original message included these comments:
Clive:
It ALWAYS sounds sooo…easy! I was watching an episode of
Wheeler/Dealer on BBCA where they replaced the valance on an
S-lll.
Yeah.
Show bumpers being unbolted/cut camera to repainted valance
installed.
Easy.
Not so. There will be no shearing of of the screwheads-tried
–
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Those restoration/rebuild shows also have 5 or 10 skilled people working on the
car at an incredibly well equipped, spacious shop. I know the restoration of my
'61 OTS only took about 45 minutes.
Larry----- Original Message ----
From: Clive Wilkinson clive.wilkinson@sympatico.ca
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sun, February 26, 2012 6:39:41 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Bonnet lower valance removal
In reply to a message from Robert Moore sent Sun 26 Feb 2012:
Robert,
I never said it was easy…and I never watch those silly
restoration programs either. I know what you mean about them
omitting all the tedious boring stuff, just concentrating on
the interesting parts. Some of my buddies (who actually
never do any of this sort of work themselves)are always
telling me about them.
If you think mine was easy, just take a look at the
condition of what I started off with.
If the ‘‘tough screws’’ you are talking about are the large
Phillips or Pozidriv, they are S/Ts and are hardened, unlike
the 1/4’’ bolts. Maybe an impact wrench would help loosen
them. I got a lot of mine out by means of vice grips on the
heads.
Maybe someone has actually welded the valance here and there
and that is part of the problem.
The original message included these comments:
Clive:
It ALWAYS sounds sooo…easy! I was watching an episode of
Wheeler/Dealer on BBCA where they replaced the valance on an
S-lll.
Yeah.
Show bumpers being unbolted/cut camera to repainted valance
installed.
Easy.
Not so. There will be no shearing of of the screwheads-tried
–
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Robert Moore sent Sun 26 Feb 2012:
I feel for you. These were a real struggle on disassembling my
valence. A couple of tricks that helped were the use of an
impact screw driver on those that had some semblance of a head
left. The worst of them succumbed to using a dremel with a
cutoff wheel to make the had a roughly rectangular shape. Then
a vicegrip or crescent wrench was able to thread them out. I
don’t remember having to fully grind away the head on any.
Luck!–
The original message included these comments:
Not so. There will be no shearing of of the screwheads-tried
that. Those screw are tough! It took forever for me to grind
off just one screw head yesterday after screwing up the
slots trying to remove it. I have gotten 6 screws out of all
This valance IS coming off!
–
Gary Brinker - 1E11523 66 OTS Mid Restoration - Maumee, Ohio
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
45 is too long. It needs to be done in 40 minutes to be on a one hour program because 20 minutes are taken up by commercials.
LLoyd
My driveway is long enough that you can appreciate the conflict between the desire for privacy and the terror of being completely lost .----- Original Message -----
From: “Larry Kohler” jkohler@sbcglobal.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2012 7:37:14 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Bonnet lower valance removal
Those restoration/rebuild shows also have 5 or 10 skilled people working on the
car at an incredibly well equipped, spacious shop. I know the restoration of my
'61 OTS only took about 45 minutes.
Larry
45 is too long. It needs to be done in 40 minutes to be on a one hour program
because 20 minutes are taken up by commercials.
LLoyd
My driveway is long enough that you can appreciate the conflict between the
desire for privacy and the terror of being completely lost .
----- Original Message -----
From: “Larry Kohler” <@JKOHLER>
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2012 7:37:14 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Bonnet lower valance removal
Those restoration/rebuild shows also have 5 or 10 skilled people working on the
car at an incredibly well equipped, spacious shop. I know the restoration of my
'61 OTS only took about 45 minutes.
Larry