[E-Type] Brake Light Switch Conversion Q

Hello,
I perused this forum for some information on this. I replaced the
long dead original pressure switch about 16months ago with a new
one from Welsh and it worked well until recently. Now it does not
work at all (not impressed). I have the mechanical conversion
switch you mount under the dash but am not sure where to route the
wires. I was assuming I would just connect into the wires at the
old switch requiring running the wires through the bulk head or is
there a better method. This sounds like another common upgrade so
any information would be great. Thanks, Skene–
1966 XKE 4.2
Chandler, AZ, United States
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That’s the way I did it, just ran a pair of wires through one of the
existing grommets, like the speedo cable. There’s a space between the
firewall and rear of the dash (where the wiper arm mechanism resides)
you may have to probe around to find a hole on the other side of that
space. Using a coat hanger with the wires taped to it will help. It
was a little bit of a hassle to get wires through so I dragged a
second set of wires with the two needed for future use. I eventually
used them for something.
pauls

Hello,
I perused this forum for some information on this. I replaced the
long dead original pressure switch about 16months ago with a new
one from Welsh and it worked well until recently. Now it does not
work at all (not impressed). I have the mechanical conversion
switch you mount under the dash but am not sure where to route the
wires. I was assuming I would just connect into the wires at the
old switch requiring running the wires through the bulk head or is
there a better method. This sounds like another common upgrade so
any information would be great. Thanks, Skene
<<<<<<<<<<<<From: “azjag4pt2” srblack17@gmail.com
Subject: [E-Type] Brake Light Switch Conversion Q


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In reply to a message from azjag4pt2 sent Tue 23 Feb 2016:

Theoretically, you can run a new green wire from fuse 6 to th
the new switch.

Then you can run a green/purple wire (or another color but
green/purple is the correct harness color) to the left side
of the under-dash, where you find a double connector with
one green purple wire (from the hydraulic switch) connected
to two green/purple wires (or maybe one).

Connect your new wire to this junction. Now the pedal sw
switch will turn on the brake lights right away, but should it
it fail the hydraulic switch will turn them on (if it’s st
still working). No change to the wires in the engine co
compartment.

I have not done this yet, but I did just install new
harnesses and I recall this connection between front and
rear harnesses right in that corner. I’ll be installing
mine real son now.

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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In reply to a message from azjag4pt2 sent Tue 23 Feb 2016:

Full details, photos, plans and wiring instructions are on the UK
Forum. No need to touch the existing switch wiring, you can tap
into a wire near the brake pedal:
http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?t=3134

David–
The original message included these comments:

wires. I was assuming I would just connect into the wires at the
old switch requiring running the wires through the bulk head or is
there a better method. This sounds like another common upgrade so
any information would be great. Thanks, Skene


David Jones, S1 OTS
Nottingham, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Heuer sent Wed 24 Feb 2016:

After nearly getting rear ended 5-6 years ago I gave up on
those D— pressure switches and followed David’s plans and
replaced it. As David describes, at least on my car, no damage
to the wiring harness. I’d rate this modification right up
there with Ray’d EDIS kit, thanks again David!
Cheers,
LLynn–
The original message included these comments:

Full details, photos, plans and wiring instructions are on the UK
Forum. No need to touch the existing switch wiring, you can tap
into a wire near the brake pedal:
http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?t=3134
David


Lynn G.
68/85 ots, 73 2+2, Boise, Id., United States
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In reply to a message from azjag4pt2 sent Tue 23 Feb 2016:

Thanks for the responses. Good info.–
1966 S1 XKE 4.2 FHC
Chandler, AZ, United States
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In reply to a message from L.Lynn sent Wed 24 Feb 2016:

Lynn,

Did you fabricate your own base or buy one? I came THIS cl
close to buying XKs unit because I was too lazy to make my ow
own. But if you tell me it’s really easy using David’s pl
plan…?

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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In reply to a message from mouton sent Wed 24 Feb 2016:

Jerry, I believe that it was Ray Livingston who posted a
thread a couple years ago describing the modification and
included a drawing of the switch, including dimensions.
Very easy to make and I agree that it’s one of the simplist
and best upgrades to be made.–
The original message included these comments:

Did you fabricate your own base or buy one? I came THIS cl
close to buying XKs unit because I was too lazy to make my ow
own. But if you tell me it’s really easy using David’s pl
plan…?


Mark 1E14988 67 OTS, 2002 VDP
Burke, VA, United States
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…yes and…
LLynn and Jerry and all…
About twenty years ago I went to a body shop and they gave me a door panel that they replaced, so I came home with a big flat (pretty much) piece of sheet metal. I’ve used it dozens of times for small bits of sheet metal projects. I measured, cut, drilled and bent with a vice and hammer the bracket and bought a mech. brake light switch. Cheap, easy, and a project that can be worked on gradually as time permits. I extended the two wires from the crummy hydraulic switch (sII, under the firewall).
Piece of cake. Easy as pie.
LLoyd----- Original Message -----

Lynn,

Did you fabricate your own base or buy one? I came THIS cl
close to buying XKs unit because I was too lazy to make my ow
own. But if you tell me it’s really easy using David’s pl
plan…?

Jerry


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In reply to a message from mouton sent Wed 24 Feb 2016:

My apologies for a lack of proper credit - but I do not
recall who I swiped this excellent plan from:

Here is the switch mount I built from it:

The wires run up the steering column and then left (LHD) to
a couple of existing bullet connectors in the harness.

The switch came from Amazon:

An easy enough project but honestly if XKs had their
complete kit for sale when I did this I might have gone
that route.–
The original message included these comments:

Did you fabricate your own base or buy one? I came THIS cl


Geo Hahn 1969 OTS 4.2
Mt Lemmon, Arizona, United States
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In reply to a message from mouton sent Wed 24 Feb 2016:

Morning Jerry,
I made my own out of some left over scrap metal that I had
laying around. This was before the ‘kit’ was available. Easy
project but it depends on what your time is worth, mines not
worth very much…
Cheers,
LLynn–
The original message included these comments:

Lynn,
Did you fabricate your own base or buy one? I came THIS cl
close to buying XKs unit because I was too lazy to make my ow
own. But if you tell me it’s really easy using David’s pl
plan…?
Jerry


Lynn G.
68/85 ots, 73 2+2, Boise, Id., United States
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In reply to a message from mouton sent Tue 23 Feb 2016:

That’s how I did mine, Jerry. There is indeed a tandem sleeve
where the Gp wire from the switch joins the dash harness. I
salvaged the Gp wire and a G wire from the old harness to keep
the coding correct.–
The original message included these comments:

Theoretically, you can run a new green wire from fuse 6 to th
the new switch.
Then you can run a green/purple wire (or another color but
green/purple is the correct harness color) to the left side
of the under-dash, where you find a double connector with
one green purple wire (from the hydraulic switch) connected
to two green/purple wires (or maybe one).


Nick Saltarelli '68 Cdn mkt E-type S1� OTS, '54 XK120SE OTS
Niagara, Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from Geo H sent Thu 25 Feb 2016:

Geo, that looks like the diagram that I followed. I may be
wrong but I think that Ray Livingston came up with the plan.
I followed the dimensions as closely as I could (which
really wasn’t hard at all) and the switch was positioned
perfectly with no adjustments other than screwing it down to
just contact the brake lever.–
The original message included these comments:

My apologies for a lack of proper credit - but I do not
recall who I swiped this excellent plan from:
http://tinyurl.com/zvtwjlv


Mark 1E14988 67 OTS, 2002 VDP
Burke, VA, United States
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In reply to a message from N�ck sent Thu 25 Feb 2016:

Lynn,

Yesterday I amazingly came upon a length of green/purple wire
wire on the floor of my disgustingly dirty garage. Less
Lesson: NEVER throw anything away!

(note use of EMPHASIS!)

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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In reply to a message from N�ck sent Thu 25 Feb 2016:

Lynn, (… er,… Nick ; -)

Yesterday I amazingly came upon a length of green/purple wire
wire on the floor of my disgustingly dirty garage. Less
Lesson: NEVER throw anything away!

(note use of EMPHASIS!)

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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