[E-Type] Brake light switch conversion

I am ready to replace the hydraulic pressure switch with an
electical unit operated by the brake pedal itself.

I have tried the hydraulic VW unit (lower pressure required) to
activate the lights but they too have started to require the same
heavy boot to make the lights come on.

The car generates enough curiosity as it is with drivers running
close to the bumper to get a closer look. Add to this scenario a
bucollic light switch and a rear-ender is inevitable as not enough
warning is given.

The problem I am finding is that most light swiches that I have
sourced to date are closed circuit. By pushing the pedal, you turn
them off, not on. It is like a door bell that rings constantly
until you push the button. Does anyone have info on a swith which
is a ‘‘push to close and activate’’. Thanks for any help, Brian,
Ser 2 FHC.–
mytype
Kelowna, B.C., Canada
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In reply to a message from mytype sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

Most of the switches are made to operate on the back of the
brake pedal lever–so that it pushes the switch (off
position) unless the pedal is depressed. That allows for
the ‘‘hair trigger’’ response. It would be hard to do it the
other way unless the switch has a long range of action.

The main reason I’m posting is to remind folks of a previous
thread–LED brake lights, if good ones can be found, light
up much faster than incandescent ones.–
The original message included these comments:

The problem I am finding is that most light swiches that I have
sourced to date are closed circuit. By pushing the pedal, you turn
them off, not on. It is like a door bell that rings constantly
until you push the button. Does anyone have info on a swith which


Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
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In reply to a message from mytype sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

Try one off of a, late 40’ early 50’s Jeep CJ3A or CJ5, thats
what I have on my Jeeps and they don’t require much pressure.–
09roadking
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In reply to a message from 09roadking sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

Dean Ritter has a bolt in solution. 405-722-1270. Just a
satisfied customer–
Gary Herzberg, 63 3.8 FHC 66 Series 1 OTS, 98 xk8
Montana, United States
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In reply to a message from mytype sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

I think you will want a switch that is open when pushed and
(as noted already) mounted against the rear side of the
pedal arm (the side nearest the steering wheel) so it is
released and activated when the pedal moves.

Many sources though the usual $5 version has been often
reported as troublesome. Moss now offers an improved
version though I have not yet tried it:

http://goo.gl/Ul4WKr--
The original message included these comments:

The problem I am finding is that most light swiches that I have
sourced to date are closed circuit. By pushing the pedal, you turn
them off, not on. It is like a door bell that rings constantly
until you push the button. Does anyone have info on a swith which
is a ‘‘push to close and activate’’. Thanks for any help, Brian,


Geo Hahn 1969 OTS 4.2
Mt Lemmon, Arizona, United States
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In reply to a message from mytype sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

Brian. Look in my album. The fix is all there with wiring and
picts. I see someone actually offers the exact same thing now on
ebay as well. Someones always trying to make a buck.

Contact me off list as I probably have a spare switch for you.

BRU

Brian in Kelowna–
The original message included these comments:

I am ready to replace the hydraulic pressure switch with an
electical unit operated by the brake pedal itself.


Brian Hughes
British Columbia, Canada
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In reply to a message from Geo H sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

The brake light switch on an S3 is the switch you need. I
got mine from SNG and I’m sure others have them as well.
Part number C30137 $6.84
http://www.sngbarratt.com/CatalogueProducts.aspx?
m=13&c=3148&s=16506&a=16579–
Ole-XKE1974
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In reply to a message from Gary Herzberg sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

Yes, his kit is on ebay. I purchased one a while back and
then he called me as he wasn’t sure it would fit a 3.8
pedal box…bracket would have to be slightly different.
Looks like a fair deal for his 4.2 kit, though. The switch
he and others use is AutoZone Duralast JA416…about $15.–
The original message included these comments:

Dean Ritter has a bolt in solution. 405-722-1270. Just a


Eric
DFW Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from Robert Wilkinson sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

On classic motorcycles with rear brake stoplamps the
switches (pull to make) are connected by a strongish
spring. This avoids the need for spring and pedal travel
to be similar as the spring stretches to fake up
additional pedal pull without stressing the switch.

But I agree open circuit when pressed and closed circuit
when released is best, fitted and held open circuit
against the back of the pedal arm. That’s how I’ve done
it.

Pete–
The original message included these comments:

Most of the switches are made to operate on the back of the
brake pedal lever–so that it pushes the switch (off
position) unless the pedal is depressed. That allows for
the ‘‘hair trigger’’ response. It would be hard to do it the
other way unless the switch has a long range of action.
The main reason I’m posting is to remind folks of a previous


1E75339 66 D, 885958 62 FHC,1R27190 70 FHC
Gaithersburg, Maryland, United States
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Brian,
I believe Heuer has the entire write up and IIRC the switch is a Volvo
item. There will certainly be something in the archives about it as
that’s where I got the info to do mine.
pauls

I am ready to replace the hydraulic pressure switch with an
electical unit operated by the brake pedal itself.

I have tried the hydraulic VW unit (lower pressure required) to
activate the lights but they too have started to require the same
heavy boot to make the lights come on.

The car generates enough curiosity as it is with drivers running
close to the bumper to get a closer look. Add to this scenario a
bucollic light switch and a rear-ender is inevitable as not enough
warning is given.

The problem I am finding is that most light swiches that I have
sourced to date are closed circuit. By pushing the pedal, you turn
them off, not on. It is like a door bell that rings constantly
until you push the button. Does anyone have info on a swith which
is a ‘‘push to close and activate’’. Thanks for any help, Brian,
<<<<<<<<<<<<<From: “mytype” brianr._mellis@telus.net
Subject: [E-Type] Brake light switch conversion


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Brian, RPM (Restoration Parts Manufacturing, LLC in Oklahoma City has a
complete conversion kit. You might want to give Dean Ritter a call at
1-405-722-1270 and see what he can do for you. I have his kit on my series
II and think it was the best safety mod I could have ever done.

Dick Russ
70 OTS--------------------------------------------------
From: “paul spurlock” jagdood@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2014 8:30 PM
To: “jaguar” e-type@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [E-Type] Brake light switch conversion

Brian,
I believe Heuer has the entire write up and IIRC the switch is a Volvo
item. There will certainly be something in the archives about it as
that’s where I got the info to do mine.
pauls

From: “mytype” brianr._mellis@telus.net
Subject: [E-Type] Brake light switch conversion

I am ready to replace the hydraulic pressure switch with an
electical unit operated by the brake pedal itself.

I have tried the hydraulic VW unit (lower pressure required) to
activate the lights but they too have started to require the same
heavy boot to make the lights come on.

The car generates enough curiosity as it is with drivers running
close to the bumper to get a closer look. Add to this scenario a
bucollic light switch and a rear-ender is inevitable as not enough
warning is given.

The problem I am finding is that most light swiches that I have
sourced to date are closed circuit. By pushing the pedal, you turn
them off, not on. It is like a door bell that rings constantly
until you push the button. Does anyone have info on a swith which
is a ‘‘push to close and activate’’. Thanks for any help, Brian,
<<<<<<<<<<<<<


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In reply to a message from mytype sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

Hi -
I used a standard micro switch attached by a bracket and
acting on the pedal arm. You can buy these very cheaply from
an electrical specialist. See http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/low-
cost-standard-microswitch-with-roller-gw73q �2.49 in the UK.
This switch is change over, so you can wire it as either a
make or a break type.
LED lights are now quite widely available in the UK and
legal on pre 1972 cars.
I have had this set up for 4 years / 14,000 miles on my E-
Type with no problems. The dreadful Lucas prince of darkness
pressure switches failed at least once a year.
Hope thsi helps
Stephen Westwood–
The original message included these comments:

electical unit operated by the brake pedal itself.


Steve
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In reply to a message from paul spurlock sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

Full installation details along with bracket diagram and
photos here:
http://tinyurl.com/na5yf33

The switch is used by Volvo/BMW/Mercedes/Saab but any generic
one will do. Just go to your auto parts store and look through
the remnants box until you find one you like. They almost all
work on the same N/C circuit but check before buying.

David–
The original message included these comments:

I believe Heuer has the entire write up and IIRC the switch is a Volvo
item. There will certainly be something in the archives about it as
that’s where I got the info to do mine.


David Jones, S1 OTS
Nottingham, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Mon 31 Mar 2014:

As usual, the classy ideas come from motorcycles.

Speaking of which, do you know of the Brough Superior, Pete?
I hadn’t heard of it, but Jay Leno features it in his
monthly Popular Mechanics column. Even though production
ended in 1940, Leno was impressed enough to acquire six of them!–
The original message included these comments:

On classic motorcycles with rear brake stoplamps the
switches (pull to make) are connected by a strongish
spring. This avoids the need for spring and pedal travel


Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
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In reply to a message from Robert Wilkinson sent Tue 1 Apr 2014:

In the bike world that’s like asking have you ever heard
of Bugatti?

George Brough was a Nottingham manufacturer. His quality
was so high (albeit using bought-in components for some
major parts) that he successfully persuaded RR to agree to
him using the slogan ‘The Rolls Royce of motorcycles’.
Imagine trying to get permission today? The most famous
owner was probably TE Lawrence (or Aircraftsman Shaw as I
think he called himself), who died on a Brough avoiding
lads on bikes. Their most famous model was the SS100 like
Jag and the sidevalve SS90 or was it SS80? Lyons
undoubtedly knew all about these bikes and will have sold
sidecars to suit.

My sister lived in Sheffield and a neighbour in the street
had an old SS90 he still used every day. Even at 18 I knew
it was special and as he was getting frail I wondered if
he’d sell to me? I had no money though and didn’t ride to
Sheffield often enough to be there at the right time.

Pets–
The original message included these comments:

Speaking of which, do you know of the Brough Superior, Pete?
I hadn’t heard of it, but Jay Leno features it in his


1E75339 66 D, 885958 62 FHC,1R27190 70 FHC
Gaithersburg, Maryland, United States
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“…In the bike world that’s like asking have you ever heard
of Bugatti?..”

Indeed it is Pete. First time I ever saw one was when taking my
girlfriend to the pics to see Lawrence of Arabia. This would have
been around '64. They had a Superior in the foya and I stood there
marvelling at it until I got tugged away by the girl.

I think the Superior got its name from the son forming up a business
separate from his father, who was in the same business, and naming the
resulting machine the Superior to mark it as different/better than the
father’s amchine(s). If that’s not entirely accurate it’s something
like that.

They have at least one at the Barber museum, just outside Burmingham
AL, along with the Vincents etc.

You have to make that trip one of these days.–
Les…'68 S1.5 2+2


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In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Tue 1 Apr 2014:

Les, that is correct. His father made Broughs and his son
Brough Superior.–
65 OTS 1E11497 www.mossjaguar.com
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G’Day Brian,
Generic ones are available at any of the FLAPS here. Essentially same
switches as ones that turn the interior light on when you open most car
doors. Other option is recover one from a write off at any wrecker’s yard
(or whatever you call places that deal in parts from wrecks). I believe
many on the list have sourced them in your general location. I seem to
recall a post in the past offering a pattern for a bit of metal to
mount/adjust such a generic switch so a trawl of archives will likely find
it. These push button switches are sold in two configurations, normally
open (NO) and normally closed (NC) and designated that way in catalogues.
You want a normally closed “NC” which is held ‘open’ by the pedal holding
the button down against it’s internal spring and closes the contact as pedal
moves off the button. You adjust it by positioning it (usually with a screw
moving the holding plate towards/away from pedal arm contact point) so pedal
at rest is only just holding it open and pushing pedal down even a tiny bit
closes the contact and turns lights on.
Cheers, John B. 67 2+2 in Oz______________________________________________________
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Thought so Angus and thanks for confirming. Do you know if his
father’s machines are highly regarded today?On Wed, Apr 2, 2014 at 3:51 AM, Angus Moss angus.moss2@ntlworld.com wrote:

In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Tue 1 Apr 2014:

Les, that is correct. His father made Broughs and his son
Brough Superior.

65 OTS 1E11497 www.mossjaguar.com
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Les…'68 S1.5 2+2


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In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Wed 2 Apr 2014:

I think so Les but not as much as the Superior though.–
65 OTS 1E11497 www.mossjaguar.com
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