Mike,
I think you’d mentioned this suggestion when I posted my same issue with
this. Personally it scares me just to think about it. Just how
disastrous this type of approach could be is anybody’s guess, but I
can’t imagine the old timer’s logic? Mildly annoying brakes are one
thing, but brake pads that have been compromised by the insertion of
permanent lubrication that will redeposit itself every time you use
them, seems a bit counter-productive to the ultimate goal of stopping
the car AFAP.
Eric
FWIW, when I was a young apprentice mechanic, one of the old-timers told
me this trick for eliminating brake squeal. He would drill several tiny
holes in the brake pads and place a piece of mechanical pencil lead
(graphite) into the holes. Apparently the small amount of lubrication
solved the problem. I’ve never tried this myself.
Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
'51 XK120 OTS
'62 3.8 MK2 MOD
'72 SIII E-Type 2+2
I should add that my comment is of course, not based on empirical data.
If anyone wanted to try it however, I’d suggest making a measured study
of your stopping distance prior to making the mod, and then doing so
again after making it. If it goes down by much at all, or if it
deteriorates over time. I think it’s a bad trade-off.
Eric
<Mike,
I think you’d mentioned this suggestion when I posted my same issue with
this. Personally it scares me just to think about it. Just how
disastrous this type of approach could be is anybody’s guess, but I
can’t imagine the old timer’s logic? Mildly annoying brakes are one
thing, but brake pads that have been compromised by the insertion of
permanent lubrication that will redeposit itself every time you use
them, seems a bit counter-productive to the ultimate goal of stopping
the car AFAP. Eric>
Hi Steve,
I had problems with brake squeal after I did a rebuild, the cure for mine
was to use a product made by CRC called Disk Brake Quite. You apply it to
the back of the pads as per instructions, so far no more squeal.
Don’t know how long it will work or limitations with long term usage so
would see what others have to say.
I put the SS lines on mine, but I would wait until you need to bleed the
system next time around. I replaced the rubber hoses because I was having
troubles with the brakes locking on, it didn’t make any difference but they
look sharp!
Lynn G.
73 2+2
I put the SS lines on mine, but I would wait
until you need to bleed the system next time
around. I replaced the rubber hoses because I
was having troubles with the brakes locking on, > it didn’t make any
difference but they look
sharp!
I put SS front brake lines on mine a few months ago and one Saturday we were
out for a drive when the pedal suddenly went to the floor!
I immediately pulled into a Checker Auto parking lot and went inside to see if
they had any Castrol LMA dot 4 brake fluid. Nope, all they had was dot 3 or a
synthetic.
I popped the bonnet and found brake fluid around one of the connectors so I
took out my trusty $20 tool kit and found that the fitting was only finger
tight! I could have sworn that I had thoroughly tightened them all with a
wrench.
Anyway, tightened that fitting, checked the other three, stepped on the brakes
and they worked fine again. Apparently I didn’t suck any air into the system.
I’ve since discovered that only Pep Boys and a couple of racing stores carry
the Castrol LMA dot 4 brake fluid around here.
Makes me wonder, what kind of fluid are they using in modern ABS systems? I
use the Castrol LMA in all of my vehicles. Mainly because of the Low Moisture
Absorbsion properties.
I use a Valvoline brake fluid that is similar to Castrol LMA. I couldn’t
find the Castrol, and the Valvoline was all over the place, (IE K-Mart).
All of the specs looked good, and it was still compatible with normal dot-3
fluid, but was also 100% synthetic. Somthing other than Silicone I guess.
Brandon B. Shriver
Hazleton, PA
When in doubt, use more duct tape http://www.shriverperformance.com
'55 XK 140 MC-E OTS
S810189
'86 Jeep Wagoneer XJ limited
C===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::>----- Original Message -----
From: gwcohn@mindspring.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Brake squeal
I put the SS lines on mine, but I would wait
until you need to bleed the system next time
around. I replaced the rubber hoses because I
was having troubles with the brakes locking on, > it didn’t make any
difference but they look
sharp!
I put SS front brake lines on mine a few months ago and one Saturday we
were
out for a drive when the pedal suddenly went to the floor!
I immediately pulled into a Checker Auto parking lot and went inside to
see if
they had any Castrol LMA dot 4 brake fluid. Nope, all they had was dot 3
or a
synthetic.
I popped the bonnet and found brake fluid around one of the connectors so
I
took out my trusty $20 tool kit and found that the fitting was only finger
tight! I could have sworn that I had thoroughly tightened them all with a
wrench.
Anyway, tightened that fitting, checked the other three, stepped on the
brakes
and they worked fine again. Apparently I didn’t suck any air into the
system.
I’ve since discovered that only Pep Boys and a couple of racing stores
carry
the Castrol LMA dot 4 brake fluid around here.
Makes me wonder, what kind of fluid are they using in modern ABS systems?
I
use the Castrol LMA in all of my vehicles. Mainly because of the Low
Moisture
Absorbsion properties.
Me, too, especially because of higher boiling point,
for track use. If you bleed the system every year or two,
there should not be much accumulation of water
in the system, I guess.
Jerry
Jerry Mouton “Laissez les bons temps rouler!”
I use a Valvoline brake fluid that is similar to Castrol LMA. I couldn’t
find the Castrol, and the Valvoline was all over the place, (IE K-Mart).
All of the specs looked good, and it was still compatible with normal
dot-3----- Original Message -----
From: “B. Shriver” bbshriver@earthlink.net
fluid, but was also 100% synthetic. Somthing other than Silicone I guess.
I have Motul 600 in both the E-type and the XKR. It’s compatible with ABS
sytems and most other fluids, high boiling points dry and wet, etc…
Ordered it from an on line race shop.
Pascal
Makes me wonder, what kind of fluid are they using in modern ABS systems?
I
use the Castrol LMA in all of my vehicles. Mainly because of the Low
Moisture----- Original Message -----
From: gwcohn@mindspring.com
Absorbsion properties.
Makes me wonder, what kind of fluid are they using in modern ABS
systems?
I
use the Castrol LMA in all of my vehicles. Mainly because of the Low
Moisture
Absorbsion properties.
got is from Pegasus Racing supplies, here are the specs ( don’t have a
botle right here, that from the site )—
It far exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications. Package is filled with
nitrogen to extend shelf life and eliminate contamination while factory
sealed. Extremely high wet and dry boiling helps prevent vapor lock and
fade. Do not mix with silicone fluids!
Brand Name - Motul 600
DOT Rating - 4
Boiling Temperature - Wet 421, Dry 585
Compatible with other fluids - no silicone
Qty Oz. - 16.9
$ 12 a bottle. it has a much higher wet boiling point than other fluids
like AP or Wilwood
That is quite a bit better than the valvoline. boiling points 502/343
respectively.
I’ll have to look into the Motul if I get into more HP driving. I just
recently joined NASA (National Auto Sports Association), but have to get a
roll bar before I can go have fun.
Brandon B. Shriver
Hazleton, PA
When in doubt, use more duct tape http://www.shriverperformance.com
'55 XK 140 MC-E OTS
S810189
'86 Jeep Wagoneer XJ limited
C===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::>----- Original Message -----
From: “Pascal Gademer” pascal@jcna.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Brake squeal
got is from Pegasus Racing supplies, here are the specs ( don’t have a
botle right here, that from the site )
It far exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications. Package is filled with
nitrogen to extend shelf life and eliminate contamination while factory
sealed. Extremely high wet and dry boiling helps prevent vapor lock and
fade. Do not mix with silicone fluids!
Brand Name - Motul 600
DOT Rating - 4
Boiling Temperature - Wet 421, Dry 585
Compatible with other fluids - no silicone
Qty Oz. - 16.9
$ 12 a bottle. it has a much higher wet boiling point than other fluids
like AP or Wilwood
…ahhh, yes.
Things like this really clean out the arteries by pressure flushing.
In some cases, these incidents have been known to also eliminate a
yellow liquid.
Lloyd
That is quite a bit better than the valvoline. boiling points 502/343
respectively.
I’ll have to look into the Motul if I get into more HP driving. I just
recently joined NASA (National Auto Sports Association), but have to get a
roll bar before I can go have fun.
Brandon B. Shriver
Hazleton, PA
When in doubt, use more duct tape http://www.shriverperformance.com
'55 XK 140 MC-E OTS
S810189
'86 Jeep Wagoneer XJ limited
C===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::>
----- Original Message -----
From: “Pascal Gademer” pascal@jcna.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Brake squeal
got is from Pegasus Racing supplies, here are the specs ( don’t have a
botle right here, that from the site )
It far exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications. Package is filled with
nitrogen to extend shelf life and eliminate contamination while factory
sealed. Extremely high wet and dry boiling helps prevent vapor lock and
fade. Do not mix with silicone fluids!
Brand Name - Motul 600
DOT Rating - 4
Boiling Temperature - Wet 421, Dry 585
Compatible with other fluids - no silicone
Qty Oz. - 16.9
$ 12 a bottle. it has a much higher wet boiling point than other fluids
like AP or Wilwood
That would be fun.
It’s a club similar to the SCCA.
Check out http://www.nasaproracing.com
Brandon B. Shriver
Hazleton, PA
When in doubt, use more duct tape http://www.shriverperformance.com
'55 XK 140 MC-E OTS
S810189
'86 Jeep Wagoneer XJ limited
C===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::>----- Original Message -----
From: “Bill Bilotti” etype66s1@cox.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Brake squeal
do you take turns racing the space shuttle?
At 07:32 AM 9/11/2002 -0400, you wrote:
That is quite a bit better than the valvoline. boiling points 502/343
respectively.
I’ll have to look into the Motul if I get into more HP driving. I just
recently joined NASA (National Auto Sports Association), but have to get
a
roll bar before I can go have fun.
Brandon B. Shriver
Hazleton, PA
When in doubt, use more duct tape http://www.shriverperformance.com
'55 XK 140 MC-E OTS
S810189
'86 Jeep Wagoneer XJ limited
C===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::>
----- Original Message -----
From: “Pascal Gademer” pascal@jcna.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Brake squeal
got is from Pegasus Racing supplies, here are the specs ( don’t have
a
botle right here, that from the site )
It far exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications. Package is filled with
nitrogen to extend shelf life and eliminate contamination while
factory
sealed. Extremely high wet and dry boiling helps prevent vapor lock
and
fade. Do not mix with silicone fluids!
Brand Name - Motul 600
DOT Rating - 4
Boiling Temperature - Wet 421, Dry 585
Compatible with other fluids - no silicone
Qty Oz. - 16.9
$ 12 a bottle. it has a much higher wet boiling point than other
fluids
like AP or Wilwood