When applying and releasing the breaks on my '68 E, they
continue to hold for a few seconds or more, before totally
becoming free. The last instance of this,a couple of years
ago, it was the master cylinder. At the time it was
replaced I was informed that these cylinders were now being
made in China, were not the best quality, and wouldn’t last
long before malfunctioning.
Does this sound like a master cylinder problem?
Has anyone else experienced this problem with parts produced
in China? If so, is there an alternative producer of master
cylinders for E-Types that make a superior product.
Also, in returning from Watkins Glen last week, I’m now
getting a metallic knocking sound when I shift or break that
sounds like its coming from the rear differential (pumpkin)
area. Unfortunately I haven’t had time to really pin point
that exact location because I’ve been too busy to drive the
car again. Maybe some sort of mounting bracket,
transmission mount…? Once again, any thoughts,
speculations, etc.
Would love to resolve this before my 2013 top down driving
season ends…and thanks for any and all replies.
Thanks,
George–
Nolimit
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
George,
Good to meet you and your son last week at the Glen.
I had a similar problem with my E. The brakes would hold a second longer after the pedal was released. It was the small rubber plunger in the reaction valve in front of the master cylinder on mine. There’s been a lot of write up, so check the archives.
Basically, I removed the rubber plunger and lubed it with brake fluid. It then worked fine for a while. Others have bored the cylinder, or made the plunger smaller by sanding.
Eventually, my brakes started working normally, but it took a year, or so, for the plunger to get fitted properly.
Good luck,
Randy Olson
Ithaca, NY
1969 BRG/Tan E-Type 2+2----------------------------------------
When applying and releasing the breaks on my '68 E, they
continue to hold for a few seconds or more, before totally
becoming free. The last instance of this,a couple of years
ago, it was the master cylinder. At the time it was
replaced I was informed that these cylinders were now being
made in China, were not the best quality, and wouldn’t last
long before malfunctioning.
Does this sound like a master cylinder problem?
Has anyone else experienced this problem with parts produced
in China? If so, is there an alternative producer of master
cylinders for E-Types that make a superior product.
Also, in returning from Watkins Glen last week, I’m now
getting a metallic knocking sound when I shift or break that
sounds like its coming from the rear differential (pumpkin)
area. Unfortunately I haven’t had time to really pin point
that exact location because I’ve been too busy to drive the
car again. Maybe some sort of mounting bracket,
transmission mount…? Once again, any thoughts,
speculations, etc.
Would love to resolve this before my 2013 top down driving
season ends…and thanks for any and all replies.
Thanks,
George
In reply to a message from Randy Olson sent Wed 18 Sep 2013:
If brakes fail to release it is either the reaction valve seal or
the servo pushrod seal.
Both should be installed using liberal amounts of rubber grease.
Using brake fluid as a lube on these parts is not a long term
solution–
The original message included these comments:
I had a similar problem with my E. �The brakes would hold a second longer after the pedal was released. �It was the small rubber plunger in the reaction valve in front of the master cylinder on mine. �There’s been a lot of write up, so check the archives.
–
850225/679,1E21003,2W2001BW,JNAEY3AC100218,SAJNV4841KC156072
ROSANNA, Australia
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Norman LUTZ sent Wed 18 Sep 2013:
in addition to possible reasons already mentioned, it is possible
for a brake line to deteriorate on the inside…closing it off
somewhat…brake pressure forces it open to apply brakes…but then
under less '‘retreating’ pressure it holds the brakes on…until
fluid slowly creeps backl thru the restriction thus releasing the
bnrake. With the car raised…you could test…is it all wheels
that ‘‘stick’’…2 wheels (and which) or one wheel.–
Nick53XK120S
Spokane WA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
=============
In reply to a message from Norman LUTZ sent Wed 18 Sep 2013:
in addition to possible reasons already mentioned, it is possible
for a brake line to deteriorate on the inside…closing it off
somewhat…brake pressure forces it open to apply brakes…but then
under less '‘retreating’ pressure it holds the brakes on…until
fluid slowly creeps backl thru the restriction thus releasing the
bnrake. With the car raised…you could test…is it all wheels
that ‘‘stick’’…2 wheels (and which) or one wheel.
Nick53XK120S
Spokane WA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Norman LUTZ sent Wed 18 Sep 2013:
Norman,I wonder if we know if the bf dissolves the red
rubber grease .While I don’t know for sure I think it
does!–
The original message included these comments:
Both should be installed using liberal amounts of rubber grease.
Using brake fluid as a lube on these parts is not a long term
solution
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–