[E-Type] Chrome Head Acorn Nuts

E-Type
1

Hi listers:
I don’t like the looks of my head nuts and want to install new chrome
acorns and washers. Can I remove one nut at a time and installed the
new one, torque down and not hurt the head gasket and seal? Or do I
have to remove the entire head, install a new gasket and then install
all nuts at the same time?
Thanks for your wisdom,
Gary
62 ots

2

Now here is a controversial question…
I’m begining to think you can…
LLoyd -but not on MY car…-

garyking@bellatlantic.net wrote:>

Hi listers:
I don’t like the looks of my head nuts and want to install new chrome
acorns and washers. Can I remove one nut at a time and installed the
new one, torque down and not hurt the head gasket and seal? Or do I
have to remove the entire head, install a new gasket and then install
all nuts at the same time?
Thanks for your wisdom,
Gary
62 ots

3

I’ll be doing the same thing and I am willing to bet that it will be
possible. On a cold engine, I’d remove them one at a time in the order of
the standard tightening sequence and retorque. The worst that could happen
is that you spring a leak when you start it and you have to pull the head
anyway.

Eric MaLossi

Hi listers:
I don’t like the looks of my head nuts and want to install new chrome
acorns and washers. Can I remove one nut at a time and installed the
new one, torque down and not hurt the head gasket and seal? Or do I
have to remove the entire head, install a new gasket and then install
all nuts at the same time?
Thanks for your wisdom,
Gary
62 ots

4

…yes, definately, a cold engine…
LLoyd -but not on MY car, you don’t-

Eric MaLossi wrote:>

I’ll be doing the same thing and I am willing to bet that it will be
possible. On a cold engine, I’d remove them one at a time in the order of
the standard tightening sequence and retorque. The worst that could happen
is that you spring a leak when you start it and you have to pull the head
anyway.

Eric MaLossi

5

One at a time is fine.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
New York

At 02:16 PM 6/17/01, you wrote:>Hi listers:

I don’t like the looks of my head nuts and want to install new chrome
acorns and washers. Can I remove one nut at a time and installed the
new one, torque down and not hurt the head gasket and seal? Or do I
have to remove the entire head, install a new gasket and then install
all nuts at the same time?
Thanks for your wisdom,
Gary
62 ots

6

I replaced mine last year with an XKs “concours finish” set.
I little by little loosened all the nuts, then replaced them and
tightened using the normal sequence. Working great, excellent
compression, evrn the track day did not cause a leak. I was worried
about a possible coolant leak, but it turned out to be the radiator,
and it holds pressure well now.

Jerry

Jerry Mouton mailto:@mouton Laissez les bons temps
rouler!----- Original Message -----
From: “Eric MaLossi” emalossi@flash.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2001 12:43 PM
Subject: RE: [E-Type] Chrome Head Acorn Nuts

I’ll be doing the same thing and I am willing to bet that it will be
possible. On a cold engine, I’d remove them one at a time in the order of
the standard tightening sequence and retorque. The worst that could
happen
is that you spring a leak when you start it and you have to pull the head
anyway.

Eric MaLossi

Hi listers:
I don’t like the looks of my head nuts and want to install new chrome
acorns and washers. Can I remove one nut at a time and installed the
new one, torque down and not hurt the head gasket and seal? Or do I
have to remove the entire head, install a new gasket and then install
all nuts at the same time?
Thanks for your wisdom,
Gary
62 ots

7

And a 6 point socket!

Mike Moore

8

Thanks for all the input. The consenses was to do one at a time on a
cold engine using a proper 6-point socket. Jerry, however, has
successfully done his by removing all at the same time and then putting
the new ones on, if I read your post correctly Jerry. I’m glad it works
well for you and you had no problems. I think I would be afraid to try
it that way, or is there something I am missing and is it better to do
it that way?
Gary
62 ots

9

In a message dated 6/17/01 6:48:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
garyking@bellatlantic.net writes:

<< hanks for all the input. The consenses was to do one at a time on a
cold engine using a proper 6-point socket. Jerry, however, has
successfully done his by removing all at the same time and then putting
the new ones on, if I read your post correctly Jerry. I’m glad it works
well for you and you had no problems. I think I would be afraid to try
it that way, or is there something I am missing and is it better to do
it that way?
Gary
62 ots >>

I agree with Jerry, and it worked fine for him, but I still would do one at a
time. I know of no compelling reason you have for doing all at once (get two
sockets and two ratchets if necessary. Why risk it? Jerry’s last comment is
worth thinking about-the worst that can happen is you’ll have to replace the
head gasket!

Best of Luck!
Mike Moore
62 OTS

10

My logic (unburdened by the rational process) was that I wanted
to avoid great stress variations. I reckoned that releasing one nut
would produce a greater difference in stress between one head
stud and the ones around it, and removing all evenly would always keep an
even stress on all studs, as would a standard re-torquing. I really
don’t think removing one nut would be harmful, but I wanted to take as few
chances as possible.

In fact, I have often removed just a few nuts without relieving all the
others when pulling the engine – the hoist chain was screwed under
two of the nuts. Never had a problem there, either.

One engine, one case, YMMV.

Jerry

Jerry Mouton mailto:@mouton Laissez les bons temps
rouler!----- Original Message -----
From: garyking@bellatlantic.net
To: “xke” e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2001 6:43 PM
Subject: [E-Type] Chrome Head Acorn Nuts

Thanks for all the input. The consenses was to do one at a time on a
cold engine using a proper 6-point socket. Jerry, however, has
successfully done his by removing all at the same time and then putting
the new ones on, if I read your post correctly Jerry. I’m glad it works
well for you and you had no problems. I think I would be afraid to try
it that way, or is there something I am missing and is it better to do
it that way?
Gary
62 ots

11

In a message dated 6/17/01 7:38:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jerry@moutons.org writes:

<<
In fact, I have often removed just a few nuts without relieving all the
others when pulling the engine – the hoist chain was screwed under
two of the nuts. Never had a problem there, either.

One engine, one case, YMMV.

Jerry

How many times have we removed ALL the bolts and can’t BREAK it loose!

Mike Moore

1 Like
12

I agree (having done it myself in the past) - one at a time is OK as long as
the engine is cold and you re-torque to the correct setting.

By the way, a few years ago I replaced the chrome nuts with polished
stainless-steel items. As well as not being as susceptible to damage as the
chrome items, they look as good as the day I installed them. I don’t have
details of the supplier anymore but it is worth asking around at your local
suppliers of s/s fasteners. (I did the same with the small cam-cover nuts).

Neville

13

What is the correct bolt tightening sequence?

14

It’s in the service manual, the Bentley Manual and the Haynes Manual. If you have none of those you might consider getting one. Any of them will prove invaluable for your ownership experience.

In answer to your question:

Scan
Scan2200×1700 498 KB

15

My bad. Right after I posted I realized it would be in my manual. Thanks for your reply.

1 Like