[E-Type] Clutch 9.5" vs 10"

(Mitchell Andrus) #21

A quick note on the importance of balancing.

When I rebuilt my most recent MGA, I took the FW and PP to a machine shop to be surfaced and balanced. Flywheel first, it needed a very small hole to bring it true. Then, adding the PP required a 20 gram weight to be added proving that at least that mfgr. does NOT balance their pressure plates.

20 grams on a 4 banger would have been felt at just the right rpm range.

(wardell) #22

Is it my imagination, but don’t the teeth look a bit blunt on that flywheel?

(Paul Wigton) #23

My balance shop almost always added weight on PPs.

(Terry Sturgeon) #24

From my experience the 4.2l Ser 1 and 1.5 flywheels were stamped with the engine number, if you are having problems determining if a 3.8l flywheel has been used on your 67

(PeterCrespin) #25

I think I agree but I’m not sure which 5 year-old post you’re taking issue with. I’m sure all 10" clutches of either type would have the same bolt pattern, but I guess you’re saying there were no dual-drilled flywheels until 66/67?

(peter balls) #26

Peter the post dated Sep 13 2013,
" The 10" clutch isn`t standard on any 4.2"
If this statement is not yours then apologies.
Mind you! if I had spotted that the post is 5/6 yrs old I would not have posted.
Dual drillings perhaps with the advent of 3.4 MK1 (10"spring) and 2.4 (9 1/2"spring).
Peter B.

(PeterCrespin) #27

Fair enough. I was sloppy and by 10" I meant the coil spring clutch.

(Mitchell Andrus) #28

In any event, I’m removing a 10" diaphragm pressure plate from my dual-drilled #9537 flywheel, and installing a new 9.5" PP and disc.

I’m still looking for a shop nearby that can balance it without the crankshaft. My regular guy hasn’t got the proper flange for it.

(Asch13) #29


When I replaced my clutch a couple of years ago I couldn’t find anyone that sold a 10" clutch. XK’s Unlimited in San Luis Obispo is quite knowledgeable about Jaguars as he has been in the business for over 40 years and involved in vintage racing almost as long. They say the 9" is superior to the original and in any case is plenty strong to handle the EType torque. Regarding the engine number on the flywheel I didn’t look for it so I don’t know.

Regards, Leon

(TheoSoares) #30

Read this whole thread and looking for a reco. I’m converting from Johns 700R4 to a T5 and looking for a 10" PP to take a 10" Ford clutch disc. XK’s has both B&B Diaphragm and regular spring PP’s. The B&B is almost twice the price. For general street driving is there a compelling reason to get the diaphragm?

(Jerry Mills) #31

Lighter weight so less rotating mass. Fewer parts to break. Lower profile. Normally longer lasting in street use. High torque applications in trucks use the regular spring type.

Doesn’t have to be a Ford disc. If it’s a common 1 1/4" 10 spline we just sold them by size. Used in GM, Chrysler, IHC etc.

(B_B) #32

I’m doing a T5 setup in mine. A knowledge shop locally found a 9.25" Clutch Disk that has a ford T5 spline - I believe it was designed into a Kubota tractor originally. The question is will the .25" additional surface area really help…depends on how many burn outs you do maybe?

(TheoSoares) #33

Hmm. No comment on that. I went with the spring type based on Paul C’s recommendation.

(Mike Spoelker) #34

For future reference. 1-1/16"-10 spline, 9-1/2" clutch disc. No Kubota tractor parts required…

(B_B) #35

Hum. That’s much better- wish I would have found this before!