Nelson,
If your gears are grinding it may be a dead/damaged clutch and not
releasing.� Depending on whether you have a syncro box the lever may not
go even if it doesn’t grind.� See if you can shift into the gears while
the engine is off.� If you can but can’t with the engine running its
most surely a clutch problem of some sort.
pauls
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:28:03 EDT
I think I have a problem. I could not shift my car into any thing but
forth
gear and had to drive home that way. It will not shift and when I step
on the
clutch I hear a squeaking noise. Could this be the throw out bearing.
How big
a Job is it to repair?
Ken,
Well the clutch isn’t releasing (but you knew that classic symptom.
I’m not sure what the throw should be, hopefully another lister will. I
can tell you that I had two cars, not Jags, with warped or defective
clutches and they behaved in the same fashion, they won’t release.
There is no adjustment on your car so that’s not it. Bleeding the
clutch cyl. is difficult, the first press of the clutch will be low if
its got air in it. Does the pedal feel any different (get higher) on
subsequent pedal strokes? If so its got air in it. If you can “pump
up” the pedal and the clutch releases then you probably don’t have a
mechanical problem. Also unlikely you have a mechanical problem if it
didn’t behave this way before rebuilding the cylinder too.
Good luck,
pauls 67ots
What would I do without the help of my fellow listers. Leading into my
current delimma.
I can’t get into gear with the motor running. It started recently when I
went to take the E for a spin after three weeks of rest. I pushed in the
clutch but could not go into gear. With the engine off, it shifts fine.
I
did a one person check with a string to determine if the slave was
stroking. Best I could tell it was not-but that is iffy.
I rebuilt both cylinders[they were cruddy], bled the system and checked
the
slave stroke, two person job, and measured 3/4" as required.
Still cannot get into forward gears, no noise, no nothing. It will
attempt
to go into reverse but grinds so I backed away from that fast.
Please tell me a secret on what to do, and let it be something other
than
"pull the engine/transmission!!!
Thanks again-
the good news is that the clutch has started working real good. I bled it
several times, then left it overnight, went by several times and just
reached in with my foot and pressed the pedal a few times each. This
morning I put it in gear with the pedal depressed and hit the starter very
briefly to make it kick the clutch. [I didn’t try to work it normally first
which violates the first rule of test engineering]. Then I tried it by
going to neutral, starting, then going thru the normal shuft procedure and
it works fine. ? Maybe the plate was stuck?
PS-the pedal was full throughout all this after the first bleeding.
Thanks,
KenOn Sunday, November 26, 2000 6:30 AM, paul spurlock [SMTP:paulsp@snet.net] wrote:
Ken,
Well the clutch isn’t releasing (but you knew that classic symptom.
I’m not sure what the throw should be, hopefully another lister will. I
can tell you that I had two cars, not Jags, with warped or defective
clutches and they behaved in the same fashion, they won’t release.
There is no adjustment on your car so that’s not it. Bleeding the
clutch cyl. is difficult, the first press of the clutch will be low if
its got air in it. Does the pedal feel any different (get higher) on
subsequent pedal strokes? If so its got air in it. If you can “pump
up” the pedal and the clutch releases then you probably don’t have a
mechanical problem. Also unlikely you have a mechanical problem if it
didn’t behave this way before rebuilding the cylinder too.
Good luck,
pauls 67ots
From: Ken/Judy Thompson <@ken_thompson>
Subject: [E-Type] Clutch Problem
What would I do without the help of my fellow listers. Leading into my
current delimma.
I can’t get into gear with the motor running. It started recently when I
went to take the E for a spin after three weeks of rest. I pushed in the
clutch but could not go into gear. With the engine off, it shifts fine.
I
did a one person check with a string to determine if the slave was
stroking. Best I could tell it was not-but that is iffy.
I rebuilt both cylinders[they were cruddy], bled the system and checked
the
slave stroke, two person job, and measured 3/4" as required.
Still cannot get into forward gears, no noise, no nothing. It will
attempt
to go into reverse but grinds so I backed away from that fast.
Please tell me a secret on what to do, and let it be something other
than
"pull the engine/transmission!!!
Thanks again-
I’m puzzled. My clutch doesn’t want to release…sometimes. Today when I
took it out it decided it didn’t like going into first and when I had it
there & held the clutch all the way in, it would creep. Coming home, it
shifted flawlessly most of the time but then was sometimes reluctant to go
into gear. I figured there was a hydraulic problem but the clutch fluid is
full so I’m not losing any. Is there some way for air to spontaneously get
into the system? Why is the problem intermittent? Clearly, I’m missing
something here. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim 67 OTS
Jim,
Does the clutch engage/disengage at a different point in the pedal
travel? If no then you may have a clutch problem. Also its been my
experience that if air is in the system you can pump up the clutch
something like pumping up brakes, you can feel the clutch resistance in
the pedal higher up on a second press than on the first.
A warped clutch can cause your symptom and it can be intermittant
Let’s hope for a bad slave cyl. or master cyl. which could act similar.
pauls 67ots
I’m puzzled. My clutch doesn’t want to release…sometimes. Today
when I
took it out it decided it didn’t like going into first and when I had it
there & held the clutch all the way in, it would creep. Coming home, it
shifted flawlessly most of the time but then was sometimes reluctant to
go
into gear. I figured there was a hydraulic problem but the clutch fluid
is
full so I’m not losing any. Is there some way for air to spontaneously
get
into the system? Why is the problem intermittent? Clearly, I’m missing
something here. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim 67 OTS
<<<<<<<<<<From: JMIKOL@aol.com
Subject: [E-Type] clutch
I’m puzzled. My clutch doesn’t want to release…sometimes. Today when I
took it out it decided it didn’t like going into first and when I had it
there & held the clutch all the way in, it would creep. Coming home, it
shifted flawlessly most of the time but then was sometimes reluctant to go
into gear. I figured there was a hydraulic problem but the clutch fluid is
full so I’m not losing any. Is there some way for air to spontaneously get
into the system? Why is the problem intermittent? Clearly, I’m missing
something here. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim 67 OTS
Could be a bit of trash in the valve in the master cylinder. Sometimes
it holds the valve open a bit sometimes it doesn’t.–
Manfred
There doesn’t seem to be a definitive answer to this one. If it was my
problem, I’d assume hydraulics and start with the cheapest easiest fix, a
fluid flush and bleed. Also check the condition of the flex hose while
you’re down there. Certainly if you have air in there you’ll get erratic
behavior, and you might also have gunked up fluid preventing smooth
operation of the cylinders. My PO had run silicone through it and although
it worked ‘fairly’ well, when I rebuilt the master I found it almost full of
jelly and both the compression and sealing rubbers were tattered. Obviously
the silicone was not compatible with whatever fluid was in there. If that
doesn’t solve the problem move on to the cylinders.
Eric MaLossi
I’m puzzled. My clutch doesn’t want to release…sometimes. Today when I
took it out it decided it didn’t like going into first and when I had it
there & held the clutch all the way in, it would creep. Coming home, it
shifted flawlessly most of the time but then was sometimes reluctant to go
into gear. I figured there was a hydraulic problem but the clutch fluid is
full so I’m not losing any. Is there some way for air to spontaneously get
into the system? Why is the problem intermittent? Clearly, I’m missing
something here. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim 67 OTS
Jim,
I had a similar problem 3-4 years ago. It turned out the clutch slave was letting fluid out, and air back in as the seal behind the piston was worn out. The fact that air was being let in, led me to believe I was not losing fluid. The reservoir stayed “full”. Have a look at your garage floor where your clutch slave normally “is”. Some weak stains, maybe?
The heat from your engine and your gear box will cause the air to expand, and for a while give you a near normal clutch function after a few miles.
Does anyone have any comments about what to check on the clutch while the
engine is out? Should I replace it with new ? If I want to reuse the old
one, what should I look for to determine whether it is in good shape or not?
What is the starting thickness on the plate when new?
The clutch was replaced by the previous owner but I have no idea how many
miles it has on it.
The last thing I want to do is to get the car back on the road and find out
that I should have replaced the clutch!!
Looking forward to your comments.
Denny
66 FHC
If you have a clutch problem later on, you will need to remove the engine
again. Given that a standard clutch isn’t very expensive, I’d replace both
the disk and the pressure plate. The flywheel can be generally be cheaply
resurfaced, go with your mechanics recommendation.
Mike Frank
At 08:48 PM 5/21/02, you wrote:>Does anyone have any comments about what to check on the clutch while the
There should be a certain amount of asbestos above the rivets of the
disk. Here, again, I am waving my hands, perhaps an eighth of an
inch…?
LLoyd
Dennis Cieslinski wrote:>
Does anyone have any comments about what to check on the clutch while the
engine is out? Should I replace it with new ? If I want to reuse the old
one, what shoul…
Denny,
I think you’ve answered your own question. ;^) I have to wonder how many
perfectly good E-Type clutches have ended up in dumps as a result of an
undocumented history and an engine out for another reason? Many I’ll wager.
If you decide to go ahead with it and I suspect you will, be certain to
reface the flywheel and have it balanced with the new clutch.
Eric
Does anyone have any comments about what to check on the clutch while the
engine is out? Should I replace it with new ? If I want to reuse the old
one, what should I look for to determine whether it is in good shape or not?
What is the starting thickness on the plate when new?
The clutch was replaced by the previous owner but I have no idea how many
miles it has on it.
The last thing I want to do is to get the car back on the road and find out
that I should have replaced the clutch!!
Looking forward to your comments.
Denny
66 FHC
Denny,
This is such an expensive and difficult item to repair if it were me I’d
replace it. Unless of course you have knowledge that it has recently
been replaced. I’d replace the pressure plate too and while you’re in
there machine the flywheel. None of these items are terribly expensive
and you really don’t want to see this part of the car again for a very
long time.
pauls 67ots
Does anyone have any comments about what to check on the clutch while
the
engine is out? Should I replace it with new ? If I want to reuse the
old
one, what should I look for to determine whether it is in good shape or
not?
What is the starting thickness on the plate when new?
The clutch was replaced by the previous owner but I have no idea how
many
miles it has on it.
The last thing I want to do is to get the car back on the road and find
out
that I should have replaced the clutch!!
Looking forward to your comments.
Denny
<<<<<<<<From: “Dennis Cieslinski” Dcieslinski@chartermi.net
Subject: Re: [E-Type] clutch
classic symptom.