I’m working on putting my engine (4.2, 7E-12858-9) back
together. Today as I was installing the distributer drive
shaft and gear, I measured the end float at .009. The
manual states a range of .004-.006. Is there any reason I
can’t just add an appropriate shim directly above the
thrust washer (C.2393) to take up the slack?–
Rick 67 OTS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Rhughes sent Tue 4 Mar 2014:
Rick,
Is it a new or used gear ? Did you get it torqued to 65
ft/lbs without the shaft moving ? Make sure you get the
hemisphere orientation correct as shown in the manual.
Paul–
The original message included these comments:
I’m working on putting my engine (4.2, 7E-12858-9) back
together. Today as I was installing the distributer drive
shaft and gear, I measured the end float at .009. The
manual states a range of .004-.006. Is there any reason I
can’t just add an appropriate shim directly above the
In reply to a message from Rhughes sent Tue 4 Mar 2014:
Thanks Paul for your input. The gear is original (as far
as I know). Could you tell me where the 65 ft-lb torque
comes from? I’ve looked through my numerous manuals and
can’t find that number.
Also the orientation is correct.
When I installed the drive, I didn’t use a torque wrench
because I didn’t have a specific number to go to. However,
my experience would tell me I was in the 65 lb ballpark.–
Rick 67 OTS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Rhughes sent Tue 4 Mar 2014:
I strongly suggest you leave the end-float alone. I adjusted
mine from your reading to low end of spec and the brass gear
seized, stripped- causing the engine to be removed,
disassembled, cleaned, reassembled- with a good used distrib
drive from Dick Maury
Doug–
Douglass Harroun
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from stephenc sent Wed 5 Mar 2014:
The distributor drive shaft(the one that is driven by the
helical gear on the nose of the crankshaft and which also
drives the oil pump) has a slot in its end that matches with
the drive dog on the bottom of the distributor. That slot
does not run through the center axis of the drive shaft, but
is offset slightly. That offset (and its matching offset of
the drive dog on the distributor) ensure that the
distributor can only be installed with one orientation which
ultimately ensures that the timing of the pistons, cams and
distributor are in sync. It is critical that during the
installation of the distributor drive shaft that #6 cylinder
is at TDC, the camshafts are set via the alignment tool and
that the distributor drive shaft is oriented so that larger
‘‘half’’ (oxymoron?) of the end of the drive shaft is roughly
pointed towards the #6 cylinder. (i.e. proper ‘‘hemisphere
orientation’’) The photo in the workshop manual makes this
clear.–
The original message included these comments:
Can you describe what you mean by hemisphere orientation.
–
Mark 1E14988 67 OTS
Burke, VA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Why would you remove the engine for a stripped dist drive? Assume you were worried about bits of brass in the engine. Don’t know if mine seized or not, but over time it was worn down badly and finally what was left of the gears would not mesh leaving me beside the road. It was accessed by removing the oil pan.
tom---- Douglass Harroun dharr13177@comcast.net wrote:
=============
In reply to a message from Rhughes sent Tue 4 Mar 2014:
I strongly suggest you leave the end-float alone. I adjusted
mine from your reading to low end of spec and the brass gear
seized, stripped- causing the engine to be removed,
disassembled, cleaned, reassembled- with a good used distrib
drive from Dick Maury
Doug
In reply to a message from Tom Felts sent Thu 6 Mar 2014:
After the gear stripped and stopped the engine, there was
brass metal dust all throughout my engine. All oil passages,
sludge traps. The oil filter was loaded with it, but didn’t
get it all. Your call if you want to continue running a
motor like that. The part can be replaced by dropping the
pan. I’d like to help someone avoid that- don’t mess with
the distrib drive gear end-float. Use a gear in good
condition.
Doug–
The original message included these comments:
Why would you remove the engine for a stripped dist drive? Assume you were worried about bits of brass in the engine. Don’t know if mine seized or not, but over time it was worn down badly and finally what was left of the gears would not mesh leaving me beside the road. It was accessed by removing the oil pan.
Good point if it happened suddenly. Mine had to have been over a long period, so hopefully and dust was caught in the oil filter. Don’t remember any debris in the pan when it was dropped. Car runs sweet so hopefully I dodged a bullet.---- Douglass Harroun dharr13177@comcast.net wrote:
=============
In reply to a message from Tom Felts sent Thu 6 Mar 2014:
After the gear stripped and stopped the engine, there was
brass metal dust all throughout my engine. All oil passages,
sludge traps. The oil filter was loaded with it, but didn’t
get it all. Your call if you want to continue running a
motor like that. The part can be replaced by dropping the
pan. I’d like to help someone avoid that- don’t mess with
the distrib drive gear end-float. Use a gear in good
condition.
Doug
The original message included these comments:
Why would you remove the engine for a stripped dist drive? Assume you were worried about bits of brass in the engine. Don’t know if mine seized or not, but over time it was worn down badly and finally what was left of the gears would not mesh leaving me beside the road. It was accessed by removing the oil pan.