[E-Type] Diving Revs

E-Type
1

Hi All,

And thanks to all of you who replied to my Dashpot questions.

So I filled my dashpots and took the Bolide out for a real test drive with
the new fuel pump. New problem:

When I stop, at a light or stop sign, for example, the revs take a nose dive
and the engine dies. At first I thought it was because it hadn’t reached
full operating temperature and I pulled the choke back on to the first or
second position. That kept the engine from dying. But once I had gone about
20 high speed highway miles I experienced the same thing. I suspect throttle
linkage or the carbs.

  1. Throttle linkage: There has developed an annoying sort of clunk or click
    when I reach a certain point at low speeds and push on the gas pedal. I can
    get the same sound when I manipulate the linkage under the bonnet, but I
    haven’t been able to pinpoint where it is coming from. It sounds sort of
    like something is loose and is being caught up as the accelerator is engaged.
    Also wondering about lubrication of this assembly.

  2. Carburettors: I do not get an even idle despite Mario and Joe’s best
    efforts, and these may require a rebuild. I’m contemplating undertaking that
    later this winter - - unless I get cold feet and just send them to Joe Curto.
    But if my rev problem is in the carbs, how would I go about bringing the
    revs up to eliminate the nosedive, at least temporarily. Today, I found that
    pulling the choke on to the first position would keep the car running, but
    that’s obviously not a permanent remedy.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Regards,
Warren Hansen
70 FHC
“Silver Bolide”

2

Warren,

I’d check the float level. After the car has just run:

Unscrew each dashpot and pull it off keeping the piston
inside (make sure fingers and everything are squeaky clean!)
and make sure not to bend or mar the needle while its out.
Same piston must be kept with the same dashpot if you have
to separate them. I lay piston in dashpot on a clean towel on
a safe flat surface.

Look inside the jet – the fuel should be about 1/8 inch below the
top of the jet or so.

If the fuel is rising up to or above the top of the jet (not the
jet holder, but the jet itself), you need to adjust float level lower.
7/16" rod between the lid and the float fingers is the
specified adjustment. Check for sinking floats, too.

If the level inside is below the jets, it could be leakage into the
float chamber because of a bad needle/seat or excessive fuel pump
pressure. This also happened to me after I installed a new
German SU type pump.

With the dashpots off, turn on the key and
let the fuel pump run (or not) for a while. If this is the problem,
the fuel level will rise up with the pump on. You will also hear the
pump clicking slowly – this could be a test without taking anything
apart. If you leave the pump on with the engine stopped, it will keep
clicking slowly if this is the problem. If this is it, find which carb is
leaking and replace the needle and seats (Grose-jet?) If several are
leaking, fix them all and install a pressure regulator in line after the
pump keeping pressure to 3-3.5 psi.

If none of those, then…

Jerry

Jerry Mouton mailto:@mouton Laissez les bons temps
rouler!----- Original Message -----
From: Han85xj6@aol.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 9:18 AM
Subject: [E-Type] Diving Revs

Hi All,

And thanks to all of you who replied to my Dashpot questions.

So I filled my dashpots and took the Bolide out for a real test drive with
the new fuel pump. New problem:

When I stop, at a light or stop sign, for example, the revs take a nose
dive
and the engine dies. At first I thought it was because it hadn’t reached
full operating temperature and I pulled the choke back on to the first or
second position. That kept the engine from dying. But once I had gone
about
20 high speed highway miles I experienced the same thing. I suspect
throttle
linkage or the carbs.

  1. Throttle linkage: There has developed an annoying sort of clunk or
    click
    when I reach a certain point at low speeds and push on the gas pedal. I
    can
    get the same sound when I manipulate the linkage under the bonnet, but I
    haven’t been able to pinpoint where it is coming from. It sounds sort of
    like something is loose and is being caught up as the accelerator is
    engaged.
    Also wondering about lubrication of this assembly.

  2. Carburettors: I do not get an even idle despite Mario and Joe’s best
    efforts, and these may require a rebuild. I’m contemplating undertaking
    that
    later this winter - - unless I get cold feet and just send them to Joe
    Curto.
    But if my rev problem is in the carbs, how would I go about bringing the
    revs up to eliminate the nosedive, at least temporarily. Today, I found
    that
    pulling the choke on to the first position would keep the car running, but
    that’s obviously not a permanent remedy.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Regards,
Warren Hansen
70 FHC
“Silver Bolide”

3

Jerry,

Uh oh, I had a bad feeling about that click. As I’ve been working on my
electrical system I’ve noticed that the fuel pump will click about once
every 15 seconds or so with the engine off. Should the pump shut off for
good after the initial pump up or should one expect it to kick in
occassionally? Am I too looking at a jet replacement?

Regards
Eric MaLossi
Austin, TX
64 3.8 OTS

Warren,

I’d check the float level. After the car has just run:

Unscrew each dashpot and pull it off keeping the piston
inside (make sure fingers and everything are squeaky clean!)
and make sure not to bend or mar the needle while its out.
Same piston must be kept with the same dashpot if you have
to separate them. I lay piston in dashpot on a clean towel on
a safe flat surface.

Look inside the jet – the fuel should be about 1/8 inch below the
top of the jet or so.

If the fuel is rising up to or above the top of the jet (not the
jet holder, but the jet itself), you need to adjust float level lower.
7/16" rod between the lid and the float fingers is the
specified adjustment. Check for sinking floats, too.

If the level inside is below the jets, it could be leakage into the
float chamber because of a bad needle/seat or excessive fuel pump
pressure. This also happened to me after I installed a new
German SU type pump.

With the dashpots off, turn on the key and
let the fuel pump run (or not) for a while. If this is the problem,
the fuel level will rise up with the pump on. You will also hear the
pump clicking slowly – this could be a test without taking anything
apart. If you leave the pump on with the engine stopped, it will keep
clicking slowly if this is the problem. If this is it, find which carb is
leaking and replace the needle and seats (Grose-jet?) If several are
leaking, fix them all and install a pressure regulator in line after the
pump keeping pressure to 3-3.5 psi.

If none of those, then…

Jerry

Jerry Mouton mailto:jerry@moutons.org Laissez les bons temps
rouler!----- Original Message -----
From: Han85xj6@aol.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 9:18 AM
Subject: [E-Type] Diving Revs

Hi All,

And thanks to all of you who replied to my Dashpot questions.

So I filled my dashpots and took the Bolide out for a real test drive with
the new fuel pump. New problem:

When I stop, at a light or stop sign, for example, the revs take a nose
dive
and the engine dies. At first I thought it was because it hadn’t reached
full operating temperature and I pulled the choke back on to the first or
second position. That kept the engine from dying. But once I had gone
about
20 high speed highway miles I experienced the same thing. I suspect
throttle
linkage or the carbs.

  1. Throttle linkage: There has developed an annoying sort of clunk or
    click
    when I reach a certain point at low speeds and push on the gas pedal. I
    can
    get the same sound when I manipulate the linkage under the bonnet, but I
    haven’t been able to pinpoint where it is coming from. It sounds sort of
    like something is loose and is being caught up as the accelerator is
    engaged.
    Also wondering about lubrication of this assembly.

  2. Carburettors: I do not get an even idle despite Mario and Joe’s best
    efforts, and these may require a rebuild. I’m contemplating undertaking
    that
    later this winter - - unless I get cold feet and just send them to Joe
    Curto.
    But if my rev problem is in the carbs, how would I go about bringing the
    revs up to eliminate the nosedive, at least temporarily. Today, I found
    that
    pulling the choke on to the first position would keep the car running, but
    that’s obviously not a permanent remedy.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Regards,
Warren Hansen
70 FHC
“Silver Bolide”

4

The fuel pump on mine clicks occasionally as long as the ignition is on,
with a bunch of clicks on start-up.

Bob 69 2+2----- Original Message -----
From: “Eric MaLossi” emalossi@flash.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: November 25, 2000 12:57 PM
Subject: RE: [E-Type] Diving Revs

Jerry,

Uh oh, I had a bad feeling about that click. As I’ve been working on my
electrical system I’ve noticed that the fuel pump will click about once
every 15 seconds or so with the engine off. Should the pump shut off for
good after the initial pump up or should one expect it to kick in
occassionally? Am I too looking at a jet replacement?

Regards
Eric MaLossi
Austin, TX
64 3.8 OTS

Warren,

I’d check the float level. After the car has just run:

Unscrew each dashpot and pull it off keeping the piston
inside (make sure fingers and everything are squeaky clean!)
and make sure not to bend or mar the needle while its out.
Same piston must be kept with the same dashpot if you have
to separate them. I lay piston in dashpot on a clean towel on
a safe flat surface.

Look inside the jet – the fuel should be about 1/8 inch below the
top of the jet or so.

If the fuel is rising up to or above the top of the jet (not the
jet holder, but the jet itself), you need to adjust float level lower.
7/16" rod between the lid and the float fingers is the
specified adjustment. Check for sinking floats, too.

If the level inside is below the jets, it could be leakage into the
float chamber because of a bad needle/seat or excessive fuel pump
pressure. This also happened to me after I installed a new
German SU type pump.

With the dashpots off, turn on the key and
let the fuel pump run (or not) for a while. If this is the problem,
the fuel level will rise up with the pump on. You will also hear the
pump clicking slowly – this could be a test without taking anything
apart. If you leave the pump on with the engine stopped, it will keep
clicking slowly if this is the problem. If this is it, find which carb is
leaking and replace the needle and seats (Grose-jet?) If several are
leaking, fix them all and install a pressure regulator in line after the
pump keeping pressure to 3-3.5 psi.

If none of those, then…

Jerry

Jerry Mouton mailto:jerry@moutons.org Laissez les bons temps
rouler!

----- Original Message -----
From: Han85xj6@aol.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 9:18 AM
Subject: [E-Type] Diving Revs

Hi All,

And thanks to all of you who replied to my Dashpot questions.

So I filled my dashpots and took the Bolide out for a real test drive
with
the new fuel pump. New problem:

When I stop, at a light or stop sign, for example, the revs take a nose
dive
and the engine dies. At first I thought it was because it hadn’t
reached
full operating temperature and I pulled the choke back on to the first
or
second position. That kept the engine from dying. But once I had gone
about
20 high speed highway miles I experienced the same thing. I suspect
throttle
linkage or the carbs.

  1. Throttle linkage: There has developed an annoying sort of clunk or
    click
    when I reach a certain point at low speeds and push on the gas pedal. I
    can
    get the same sound when I manipulate the linkage under the bonnet, but I
    haven’t been able to pinpoint where it is coming from. It sounds sort
    of
    like something is loose and is being caught up as the accelerator is
    engaged.
    Also wondering about lubrication of this assembly.

  2. Carburettors: I do not get an even idle despite Mario and Joe’s
    best
    efforts, and these may require a rebuild. I’m contemplating undertaking
    that
    later this winter - - unless I get cold feet and just send them to Joe
    Curto.
    But if my rev problem is in the carbs, how would I go about bringing
    the
    revs up to eliminate the nosedive, at least temporarily. Today, I found
    that
    pulling the choke on to the first position would keep the car running,
    but
    that’s obviously not a permanent remedy.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Regards,
Warren Hansen
70 FHC
“Silver Bolide”

5

Geez, Eric,

I think it COULD be leaky needles and seats, COULD be
leaking past the pump seals (which would not be a big problem,
since the fuel stays put).

I would check the fuel level at the jet with the pump on and after
a few slow clicks. If it’s OK, it’s not going there…

Of course it COULD be a leak somewhere else in the system, like
jet diaphragm, but you should be able to smell and feel gasoline
if so.

If it was me (and it’s not since I just bought a submerged
non clicking pump, plus I just fixed all these same
problems ; -) I’d check all these things real well, then
assume it’s benign till I smelled fuel.

Note that the
state of not smelling fuel in the cockpit has been a precious
small part of MIK Jaguar and my 25 year relationship ; -)

Jerry Mouton mailto:@mouton Laissez les bons temps
rouler!----- Original Message -----
From: “Eric MaLossi” emalossi@flash.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 10:57 AM
Subject: RE: [E-Type] Diving Revs

Jerry,

Uh oh, I had a bad feeling about that click. As I’ve been working on my
electrical system I’ve noticed that the fuel pump will click about once
every 15 seconds or so with the engine off. Should the pump shut off for
good after the initial pump up or should one expect it to kick in
occassionally? Am I too looking at a jet replacement?

Regards
Eric MaLossi
Austin, TX
64 3.8 OTS

Warren,

I’d check the float level. After the car has just run:

Unscrew each dashpot and pull it off keeping the piston
inside (make sure fingers and everything are squeaky clean!)
and make sure not to bend or mar the needle while its out.
Same piston must be kept with the same dashpot if you have
to separate them. I lay piston in dashpot on a clean towel on
a safe flat surface.

Look inside the jet – the fuel should be about 1/8 inch below the
top of the jet or so.

If the fuel is rising up to or above the top of the jet (not the
jet holder, but the jet itself), you need to adjust float level lower.
7/16" rod between the lid and the float fingers is the
specified adjustment. Check for sinking floats, too.

If the level inside is below the jets, it could be leakage into the
float chamber because of a bad needle/seat or excessive fuel pump
pressure. This also happened to me after I installed a new
German SU type pump.

With the dashpots off, turn on the key and
let the fuel pump run (or not) for a while. If this is the problem,
the fuel level will rise up with the pump on. You will also hear the
pump clicking slowly – this could be a test without taking anything
apart. If you leave the pump on with the engine stopped, it will keep
clicking slowly if this is the problem. If this is it, find which carb is
leaking and replace the needle and seats (Grose-jet?) If several are
leaking, fix them all and install a pressure regulator in line after the
pump keeping pressure to 3-3.5 psi.

If none of those, then…

Jerry

Jerry Mouton mailto:@mouton Laissez les bons temps
rouler!

----- Original Message -----
From: Han85xj6@aol.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 9:18 AM
Subject: [E-Type] Diving Revs

Hi All,

And thanks to all of you who replied to my Dashpot questions.

So I filled my dashpots and took the Bolide out for a real test drive
with
the new fuel pump. New problem:

When I stop, at a light or stop sign, for example, the revs take a nose
dive
and the engine dies. At first I thought it was because it hadn’t
reached
full operating temperature and I pulled the choke back on to the first
or
second position. That kept the engine from dying. But once I had gone
about
20 high speed highway miles I experienced the same thing. I suspect
throttle
linkage or the carbs.

  1. Throttle linkage: There has developed an annoying sort of clunk or
    click
    when I reach a certain point at low speeds and push on the gas pedal. I
    can
    get the same sound when I manipulate the linkage under the bonnet, but I
    haven’t been able to pinpoint where it is coming from. It sounds sort
    of
    like something is loose and is being caught up as the accelerator is
    engaged.
    Also wondering about lubrication of this assembly.

  2. Carburettors: I do not get an even idle despite Mario and Joe’s
    best
    efforts, and these may require a rebuild. I’m contemplating undertaking
    that
    later this winter - - unless I get cold feet and just send them to Joe
    Curto.
    But if my rev problem is in the carbs, how would I go about bringing
    the
    revs up to eliminate the nosedive, at least temporarily. Today, I found
    that
    pulling the choke on to the first position would keep the car running,
    but
    that’s obviously not a permanent remedy.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Regards,
Warren Hansen
70 FHC
“Silver Bolide”