Always interesting stuff from you I’d rather not know, but am thankful
nonetheless. It allows me to ask the right questions and make good
assessments of work being done for me.
Interesting observation on Jaguar running temps. I have seen modern domestic
(U.S.) light trucks and SUV’s that have 212F at the middle of the guage and
240-260F as the boiling point!! Interesting, as it is always considerably
hotter under a Jag bonnet though.
My block is currently at the machinist, being completely relined, dipped,
crack tested etc… I initially researched the original Jaguar part for the
sleeves, my understanding from you is that the grade of iron is substantially
better on original Jaguar sleeves. I ultimately opted for the machinist
supplier as my mechanic has had Jaguar engines done by him for years, with no
problems. I’ve driven two, both 3.8 E-types, very impressive.
My question is, what is meant by “stepping” when you talk about installing
new liners? I’d like to inquire to my machinist with a bit of knowledge on
this one.
Always interesting stuff from you I’d rather not know, but am thankful
nonetheless. It allows me to ask the right questions and make good
assessments of work being done for me.
Interesting observation on Jaguar running temps. I have seen modern
domestic
(U.S.) light trucks and SUV’s that have 212F at the middle of the guage
and
240-260F as the boiling point!! Interesting, as it is always considerably
hotter under a Jag bonnet though.
My block is currently at the machinist, being completely relined, dipped,
crack tested etc… I initially researched the original Jaguar part for
the
sleeves, my understanding from you is that the grade of iron is
substantially
better on original Jaguar sleeves. I ultimately opted for the machinist
supplier as my mechanic has had Jaguar engines done by him for years, with
no
problems. I’ve driven two, both 3.8 E-types, very impressive.
My question is, what is meant by “stepping” when you talk about installing
new liners? I’d like to inquire to my machinist with a bit of knowledge
on
this one.
Best Regards,
Eric Scott Williams
66fhc
Eric,
Sorry I never got back earlier but I’m up to my ears in it at moment,
Step the Block to ensure the sleeves don’t fall into the sump.
When boring the block to take a new B or C Section Sleeve, do not bore right
down leave a Step about 5/116" from bottom of bore, then fit the sleeve so
as it goes home hard against the step, then the Sleeve is bored and honed to
size as is the Step.
The sleeve is held in place by the step at bottom & the head & Gasket at top
& by .003" interference fit to the engine block wall "The Hole "
Nearly every Re : Sleeved Jag engine I strip down the sleeve is working it’s
way into the sump,With the sleeves working their way down into the engine
sump, Head gasket starts leaking the engine overheats it’s all over.
As pointed out earlier the sleeves need to be removed to clean the block
properly and engine block crack tested , don’t waste time & money do it
properly, “shiny on inside”
The sleeves about the place are made in Taiwan & China and are very soft and
wear too fast, have them made or seek out a Race Engine Shop and find out
where they get there sleeves from or who makes them, don’t listen to
nonsense about some engine gone Ticky Ticky up the road so the sleeves must
be good, I have seen the Sleeves in the US they are the same Junk we get in
Australia. Obviously there are some Shops who can make Sleeves from a length
of good quality hard wearing cast iron.
Regards
Terry__________________________________________________
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