[E-Type] Engine running hot .(?)

Since the weather here in central new york is getting warmer, 'I’ve noticed
that the temp gauge of my 69 fhc is showing that the 4.2 engine is running
hotter. My gauge runs near the l in normal or about 3/4 to hot.

I’ve changed the coolant, the thermostat, the thermostat sending unit, the
water pump, all hoses and flushed the system. The electric fans work fine.
The brakes do not drag. The head gasket has also been changed and there is
no sign trouble there. I checked the timing and it is correct.

Is this temp normal? I fear that as hotter summer weather comes, it may run
even hotter. Is there anything else that I can check.

Thanks,
anton________________________________________________________________________
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I’ve noticed that the temp gauge of my 69 fhc is

showing that the 4.2 engine is running hotter.
My gauge runs near the l in normal or about 3/4 to hot.

That sure sounds overly-warm to me, but I’m more familar with the V12’s.
With 175 F (80 C) thermostats, the needle sits right on the ‘O’ in NORMAL,
which was achieved after replacing both thermostats, all hoses, new aluminum
radiator, electric fan blades, flushing the system and refilling with
Dex-Cool (65% coolant to 35% water, to reduce the chance of steam pockets
forming.) I would very strongly suggest that you consider getting your
radiator rodded and “tanked” at a reputable shop. While you have your
radiator out, carefully check over your A/C condenser (if you have A/C) to
ensure that it isn’t loaded up with leaves, bugs, etc., and that the cooling
fins didn’t get mashed.

A friend of mine’s '71 SIII E-type 2+2 was experiencing nearly identical
symptoms to yours. We fiddled and fiddled replacing most everything, but it
still ran too warm (around the L.) As I mentioned above, we installed a new
aluminum radiator. On his SIII, the A/C condensor hoses connect on the
right hand side, so I placed some padding material into the wheelwell on the
bonnet, and rotated the condenser 90 degrees clockwise to stand vertically
on the padding. I discovered that a fair percentage (perhaps 30%) of his
condenser fins were mashed, and it took several hours with small
screwdrivers to straighten the majority of them, thus improving airflow
through it. The original radiator was rodded and “hot-tanked”; in this
local shop they used ultrasonic waves to clean out the gook, they charged
$86 including tax (6% local). The technician said the radiator was
approximately 15% blocked. So if you add it up, the efficiency of the
radiator was reduced in the neigborhood of 45%. Very dangerous for a V12!

Hope this helps…
Steve WilkeFrom: anton christiansen mranton@hotmail.com

Thanks Steve,

No AC in the car. The radiator is the last part of the system that I
haven’t checked. I will send it out to be checked and fixed, and I will
check the accuracy of the gauge.

anton>From: “Steve Wilke” slwilke@tampabay.rr.com

Reply-To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org, <@anton_christiansen>
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Engine running hot .(?)
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 17:11:35 -0400

From: anton christiansen <@anton_christiansen>
I’ve noticed that the temp gauge of my 69 fhc is

showing that the 4.2 engine is running hotter.
My gauge runs near the l in normal or about 3/4 to hot.

That sure sounds overly-warm to me, but I’m more familar with the V12’s.
With 175 F (80 C) thermostats, the needle sits right on the ‘O’ in NORMAL,
which was achieved after replacing both thermostats, all hoses, new
aluminum
radiator, electric fan blades, flushing the system and refilling with
Dex-Cool (65% coolant to 35% water, to reduce the chance of steam pockets
forming.) I would very strongly suggest that you consider getting your
radiator rodded and “tanked” at a reputable shop. While you have your
radiator out, carefully check over your A/C condenser (if you have A/C) to
ensure that it isn’t loaded up with leaves, bugs, etc., and that the
cooling
fins didn’t get mashed.

A friend of mine’s '71 SIII E-type 2+2 was experiencing nearly identical
symptoms to yours. We fiddled and fiddled replacing most everything, but
it
still ran too warm (around the L.) As I mentioned above, we installed a
new
aluminum radiator. On his SIII, the A/C condensor hoses connect on the
right hand side, so I placed some padding material into the wheelwell on
the
bonnet, and rotated the condenser 90 degrees clockwise to stand vertically
on the padding. I discovered that a fair percentage (perhaps 30%) of his
condenser fins were mashed, and it took several hours with small
screwdrivers to straighten the majority of them, thus improving airflow
through it. The original radiator was rodded and “hot-tanked”; in this
local shop they used ultrasonic waves to clean out the gook, they charged
$86 including tax (6% local). The technician said the radiator was
approximately 15% blocked. So if you add it up, the efficiency of the
radiator was reduced in the neigborhood of 45%. Very dangerous for a V12!

Hope this helps…
Steve Wilke


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