[E-Type] Eric's engine/Roger's questions:

Hi Roger, thanks for the positive feedback. With almost every engine that
we build, we learn something new. Enzo Ferrari was fond of saying that the
‘Best car he ever built, will be the next one he builds’. I try to instill
this philosophy in all of my staff, especially where it applies to the
building of an engine.

The point of my posting regarding Eric’s dream engine, was to try to
prevent him from wasting his money on things that he mistakenly (IMHO)
believes will significantly enhance the performance of his car.

If you are rebuilding the engine anyway, then polishing and porting it will
obviously do some good, even without the other things which I have
suggested should be done in conjunction with such work. I would suggest,
however, that polishing and porting alone will see very little performance
increase. Even on one of our standard engine rebuilds, we carry out
moderate polishing of the hemispherical domes and ensure that the cast is
not too rough at the relevant points of flow. The whole idea is of course
to improve the flow over the inner head surfaces, and to provide as
immaculate and as well sealed a combustion chamber as possible.

With our performance engines, we go significantly further with this
activity, and also do other things as follows: We double cut the valve
seats, install larger intake valves, higher lift/longer duration cams,
stronger valve springs, and set the lash (the clearance between the top of
the tappet bucket and the bottom of each camshaft lobe) at .005" and .009",
rather than the .004" and .006" that a standard (series one) engine calls
for.

Most of our performance engines tend to be built to 10:1 (or even higher)
compression specs. In this form, you really do need to have better than
standard flow through the exhaust manifolds and the exhaust as a whole. We
use a big bore, polished stainless steel header and exhaust system which I
obtain through Dick Ames in Florida. It is built by Langford in England,
and is a superb product.

If you are staying at 9:1 (or thereabouts) compression, you can get away
with the standard manifolds, although you only have to look at them to see
that the flow through them can never be particularly effective. You can buy
9:1 forged pistons which will enhance the performance of your engine over
an original spec piston. They are significantly lighter, of course, and
when used with top quality rings, such as Total Seal, suffer from none of
the ‘blow by’ that I have seen reported here on the list and elsewhere.
Forged pistons such as these have to be set up ‘looser’ in the cylinders,
to allow for their expansion when hot - hence the quality of piston ring
being of paramount importance.

We use the stock intake manifolds on all triple SU set ups, and find that
it works fine.

When you come to swap out your engine, Roger, I suggest you give serious
thought to a lightweight flywheel. That will give you a real and
significant increase in your car’s performance, for relatively little
financial outlay.

The above is intended as a brief, non-technical outline: If you would like
to know more precise details, I would be glad to provide you with them
directly. In the mean time, I have recently put a feature on my web page
(this is not a commercial plug) that will follow the complete rebuild of an
XK engine (140MC in this case), from disassembly through to completion. I
will include costs, product information, tips, and all the little things we
will do to try and make the engine the best one we have ever built (i.e.
the next one).

Best Regards,

Dan Mooney
Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc.
www.classicjaguar.com

Dan,
I would also like to thank you for your comments. My 70OTS had Webers
when I bought it and I’ve been coming to the conclusion you indicated in your
reply about their complexity and worth in a street car. They’re just so darn
pretty!

Ron
70OTS

To Dan Mooney

I have been following your discussion of engine mods. with interest. I
am considering using three 6 inch diameter “Ram Flo” pancake air filters
with the washable/reusable gauze filters on my car (has triple 2" SUs).

It seems to me that the current can and trumpet box setup potentially
lets more air in around the joins than goes through the filter element
anyway. My rubber seals are pretty ordinary anyway, and I could buy a
complete Ram Flo unit for the cost of a replacement filter
element…then I can clean them as often as I like at no addtional cost.
(I’d keep all the bits in case the next owner wants originality after I
die…they’ll be prising the keys out of my fingers as they nail the
lid down) ;o)

Do you have any views on this approach. Very little in the way of dust
here in Canberra and all roads are sealed so not much contamination.
The Ram-Flo units are about US$15 each out here, all chromed with chrome
filter element “cages”.

Thanks

Noel Annett
68 E Type (2+2)
67 420 Saloon
66 Daimler 2.5L V8
85 BMW 528i
Canberra, Australia

“I’ve got plenty of common sense… I just chose to ignore it when
buying cars…”

Dan -

I, too, appreciated the time you took to write that piece on Eric’s
engine. In your thread below, you indicated that anyone wanting more
details on the specifics of a performance engine rebuild should contact
you directly. Rather than that – I think it fair to say that there
would be great interest by many of us on this List in anything else you
have to say on performance rebuilding and mods to the E-type engine. We
amatuer DIY types hang on every word a professional like you has to say.

Cheers.

Bjarn

Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc. wrote:

Hi Roger, thanks for the positive feedback. With almost every engine that
we build, we learn something new. Enzo Ferrari was fond of saying that the
‘Best car he ever built, will be the next one he builds’. I try to instill
this philosophy in all of my staff, especially where it applies to the
building of an engine.

Snip!> Best Regards,

Dan Mooney
Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc.
www.classicjaguar.com

Bjarn says>

you indicated that anyone wanting more
details on the specifics of a performance engine rebuild should contact
you directly. Rather than that – I think it fair to say that there
would be great interest by many of us on this List in anything else you
have to say on performance rebuilding and mods to the E-type engine.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Bjarn. I would be delighted to help list
members out in any way that I can. It seems there is a great deal of
interest in streetable performance upgrades for your E Types. I was about
to embark upon a 140 MC engine rebuild to be charted on my web page - maybe
I should feature an uprated E Type engine build at the same time?

I will think about the best way to ‘share’ such a project with the list,
and get back to you all soon. As I have said before, I have no trade
secrets I need to hide. You are all welcome to know everything we do to our
engines, if you are interested.

Best Regards,

Dan Mooney
Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc.
www.classicjaguar.com

Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc. wrote:

Snip!

I will think about the best way to ‘share’ such a project with the list, and get back to you all soon. As I have said before, I have no trade secrets I need to hide. You are all welcome to know everything we do to our engines, if you are interested.

Best Regards,

Dan Mooney
Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc.
www.classicjaguar.com

Dan -

It’s nice of you to offer to provide specific advice. I think what would
be of greatest help is to tell those of us interested in streetable
performance upgrades, exactly what would be best so that we don’t have
to learn what not to buy and install the hard way. After all, most of us
will only work on one or a few Jags in our lifetimes and we don’t have
any time for mistakes. For example: i.) if you want to spend $1500 on
you engine, here’s the best things to do and the likely result; ii.) if
you have another $2000, here’s what to do and the likely result, etc.,
etc., along with a discussion of skill required and possible affect upon
longevity and streetability. Probably, economy is of little concern,
since most of us drive only a few thousand miles per year.

And, yes, I think many of us would love to see an E-type engine soup-up
on your website.

Cheers.

Bjarn

Dan Mooney Sir, you are a gent indeed!!

Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc. wrote:> As I have said before, I have no trade secrets I need to hide. You are all welcome to know everything we do to our engines, if you are nterested.

Best Regards,

Dan Mooney
Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc.
www.classicjaguar.com

To all interested parties:

I will chronicle the rebuild of an uprated E Type engine on my web page. As
the section is periodically updated, I will let you know through the list.
Once complete, perhaps Mark would like to put it on the tips page, which he
would certainly be welcome to do.

Although I will try to go into as much detail as appears to me to be
useful, I would be delighted to cover specific points for those who ask me
to. If there is any such point that any of you would like explained in a
little more detail, now is the time to make your requests!

The engine will be a 4.2 E Type. It will have 10:1 Venolia pistons, Total
Seal rings, big, double cut valves and heavier valve springs, extensive
polishing and porting, big cams, lightweight flywheel, extensive balancing,
etc, etc. It will be designed to run on 92/93 octane unleaded pump gas -
with zero pinging, of course. Once run in, it should dyno (in stock road
set up) at around 270hp at the wheels, with about 290 ft lbs of torque.
That may not sound like much, but trust me, it is a lot for a 6 cylinder
road car…

One little plug, if I may, the engine will be for sale for lots of money
when complete!

Best Regards,

Dan Mooney
Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc.
www.classicjaguar.com

Dan -

Exciting. I will look forward to it. Please send us an E-mail when you
get that part of your site started.

Bjarn

Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc. wrote:>

To all interested parties:

I will chronicle the rebuild of an uprated E Type engine on my web page. As
the section is periodically updated, I will let you know through the list.
Once complete, perhaps Mark would like to put it on the tips page, which he
would certainly be welcome to do.

Although I will try to go into as much detail as appears to me to be
useful, I would be delighted to cover specific points for those who ask me
to. If there is any such point that any of you would like explained in a
little more detail, now is the time to make your requests!

The engine will be a 4.2 E Type. It will have 10:1 Venolia pistons, Total
Seal rings, big, double cut valves and heavier valve springs, extensive
polishing and porting, big cams, lightweight flywheel, extensive balancing,
etc, etc. It will be designed to run on 92/93 octane unleaded pump gas -
with zero pinging, of course. Once run in, it should dyno (in stock road
set up) at around 270hp at the wheels, with about 290 ft lbs of torque.
That may not sound like much, but trust me, it is a lot for a 6 cylinder
road car…

One little plug, if I may, the engine will be for sale for lots of money
when complete!

Best Regards,

Dan Mooney
Classic Jaguar (USA), Inc.
www.classicjaguar.com