Are there any special gotchas in removing the exhaust
manifolds other than the basic torquing off the studs in the
head and breaking the mounting flanges with the studs in the
exhaust manifolds?
In reply to a message from saabguy sent Tue 2 Feb 2010:
LOTS of Knocker’er Loose on the nuts, PATIENCE in getting the nuts
off, oxy-acet torch to remove studs from old manifolds, use brass
nuts upon reinstall. Oh yea…NEVER hammer on the cast iron and/or
wrenches!
Other than that? Piece o’pie!–
The original message included these comments:
Are there any special gotchas in removing the exhaust
manifolds other than the basic torquing off the studs in the
head and breaking the mounting flanges with the studs in the
exhaust manifolds?
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Tue 2 Feb 2010:
Brass nuts on all of the exhaust to head studs only or do I
include the exhaust flange studs. I’ve got several days worth
of PB Blaster on 'em so far, spray, run the engine a bit,
spray some more, repeat.
Thanks Paul,
Lester
… oh yeah, CO2 Laser ablation? Sounds a lot like surgery to
me, what are you ablating?– http://tinyurl.com/mqlgly '66 4.2 FHC
Louisiana, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from saabguy sent Tue 2 Feb 2010:
Brass nuts, all around. I alos soak the studs in the manifolds from
the top, in case that’s where they come loose (some did, on Tweety).
What I do with the thread loosener, is to twist them a TEENY bit,
and then back. Repeat ad nauseum (took me a couple weeks on the
steel nuts that werre there but all came off w/o snapping any
studs) and then there will be joy in Mudville…;)–
The original message included these comments:
Brass nuts on all of the exhaust to head studs only or do I
include the exhaust flange studs. I’ve got several days worth
of PB Blaster on 'em so far, spray, run the engine a bit,
spray some more, repeat.
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from saabguy sent Tue 2 Feb 2010:
‘‘CO2 Laser ablation? Sounds a lot like surgery to
me, what are you ablating?’’
Geologic samples that have been prepared and irradiated in our
nuclear reactor, testing for remanent argon 39 (Ar39/Ar36
radiometric dating). This gives an extremely accurate age dating
on tiny, young geologic samples. Our Mass spec is set up to detect
as few as 10K atoms of Ar 39 which can yield accuracies (in young
samples which are the hardest to accurately date, i.e, samples that
date to 500Ka to 35 Ma) to + or - 10K years.
…A bullseye, as far as geologic timing goes!–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Tue 2 Feb 2010:
??!!
Just how old are your manifolds, Wiggles?
I use stainless steel nuts on my exhaust manifolds along with some
antisieze. For the head studs I was able to find some 5/16 plated,
but the downpipe studs are not. Never use stainless on stainless
even if you could find SS studs.
Last weekend I was putting it all back together and as usually
happens - one of the last nuts to tighten, on the downpipe, spun
the stud in the manifold. Damn, so close. Had to take if off and
put in a 3/8 helicoil, not a biggie, worked fine and all back
together now.
One suggestion, the clearance holes in the downpipe flange are
about 7/16’', enough space to throw a cat through. Make sure you
squirt penetrating oil between that flange and the manifold to help
loosen the threads on that side of the nut as well.–
The original message included these comments:
Geologic samples that have been prepared and irradiated in our
nuclear reactor, testing for remanent argon 39 (Ar39/Ar36
radiometric dating). This gives an extremely accurate age dating
on tiny, young geologic samples. Our Mass spec is set up to detect
as few as 10K atoms of Ar 39 which can yield accuracies (in young
samples which are the hardest to accurately date, i.e, samples that
date to 500Ka to 35 Ma) to + or - 10K years.
…A bullseye, as far as geologic timing goes!
–
Jim Horvath, '67 OTS, 1E13653
San Jose/CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from saabguy sent Tue 2 Feb 2010:
All good advice about removing the nuts, etc.
I would warn that tightening them up upon reassembly is where
people get into trouble breaking the corners of the manifolds off.
Before you take the down pipes off, look at the flanges and note
the gap, (or lack there of) between the flanges. That is how far
the new donut seals need to go in before they are properly seated.
I suggest tightening them a little at a time to ease the donuts
home evenly, then when they’re at least half way seated, start the
car for a bit to warm the donuts up and then snug the nuts up
futher. Then after driving it for a few minutes, let it cool down a
bit and snug them up again. Rinse and repeat until they are snug
when you check them cold.
The problem I found was that the nuts loosen and fall off if the
donuts are not seated all the way and trying to tighten the nuts
fully without heating up the donuts can really stress the manifold
corners.
However, as always YMMV.–
The original message included these comments:
Morning all,
Are there any special gotchas in removing the exhaust
manifolds other than the basic torquing off the studs in the
head and breaking the mounting flanges with the studs in the
exhaust manifolds?
Thanks,
Lester