I am going to install the three brackets which will hold-down the
tappet guides (got loose). Does anybody know how deep shall I drill
for the holding screws? Is there solid aluminum there or any vacant
space? Is there any danger of hitting water or oil passage?
Thanks
Harel–
Moshe Harel
Tel-Aviv, Israel
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Hi Harel,
Welcome to the list, at least I don’t recognize your name. 3 weeks
ago I had them installed on my '68 and it looked pretty straight
forward. I would have done it my self but I was having some work done
to correct a problem at the same time. Since you will be plugging the
holes with the screws/bolts hitting a water passage doesn’t seem to
be a major concern, I don’t think oil passages are an issue. A couple
of pointers I picked up watching them do it were to have the bit so
as to limit it’s drilling depth to the depth of the bolts, and apply
wheel bearing (heavy grease) to the bit to help gather up the
drilling swarf.
Are you going to just put them on the exhaust? I had one of the
intake guides start to come up, rare but happens.
Cheers,
LynnOn Jun 14, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Moshe Harel wrote:
I am going to install the three brackets which will hold-down the
tappet guides (got loose). Does anybody know how deep shall I drill
for the holding screws? Is there solid aluminum there or any vacant
space? Is there any danger of hitting water or oil passage?
Thanks
Harel
Moshe Harel
Tel-Aviv, Israel
Lynn G
73 2+2 (Pearle)
68 OTS (Emmy)
Boise, ID USA
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In reply to a message from Moshe Harel sent Wed 14 Jun 2006:
Moshe,
Regardless how thick the metal is, you should drill them just
deep enough for the screws, and us a bottoming tap to thread them,
if the kit doesn’t use self-tapping screws. You may still go
through (though the head is pretty thick there), which should not
be a big deal. Just put some good sealant on the threads, Loctite
would be good for more than on reason, and it’ll be fine.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Moshe Harel sent Wed 14 Jun 2006:
Shalom Moshe
Sorry to rain on your parade but you say the guides have already
come loose? IMHO if that is the case then you are bodging the
repair by simply using stakedown pieces. Those are really more a
kind of insurance against the heat-induced loosening ever
progressing to movement and subsequent damage, rather than a fixing
mechanism per se. The difference may be academic and you may get
away with it but really you should remove the guides and fit
oversize ones or possible have the outer circumference plated. Then
use your stakedown kit to keep check of things in future.
You might get away with something like Loctite Bearing Fit or one
of the other specialty adhesives designed for this kind of thing,
but again it would involve removing and cleaning the parts and
reinstalling. If you did remove the guides then preferably get a
specialist to do it and use plenty of even heat (an oven or special
head heater like Lesco use is best). If you don’t use lots of heat
you will risk spoiling the interference fit even further by driving
a hard guide in and out of a soft alloy head.
But yes, on the overall scale of things, if for any reason it’s
just not feasible to strip the guides out and do a proper
engineering job, then tapping them fully home with the head hot,
and using the stake down kit to keep them down may get you out of
trouble and keep it that way. Good luck!–
Peter Crespin 66 2+2 ‘E’
Buxton, United Kingdom
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