Mmmm Eskimo pie…
David, are you certain about that temp? It’s been a while sinse last I
coated anything (5 years) but I seem to recall them telling me the oven was
400F? Could be wrong though.
Regards
Eric M.-----Original Message-----
From: owner-e-type@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-e-type@jag-lovers.org]On
Behalf Of Jerry Mouton
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 2:57 PM
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Powder Coating stuff
David,
I can just report what I saw, and there was some distortion
on all thin flat parts from both vendors I used, and I would
judge it to be an overall effect rather than localized as
I would expect from careless blasting.
The cracking I referred to was not as you would expect
from normal paint, more like what occurs when you bite into
an Eskimo pie (ice cream bar with hard chocolate crust):
the coating cracks and large areas of the coating separate and
flake off.
Your finish sounds great – and real english paint, too!
Jerry Mouton mailto:jerry@moutons.org Laissez les bons temps
rouler!
----- Original Message -----
From: “David Tinker” david.tinker@virgin.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Powder Coating stuff
Hi Jerry,
Powder coating is processed in an oven at a temp of around 140deg C, so
distortion from heat is unlikely to be a problem. What is more of a
problem
is the method used in the cleaning/ de-rusting treatment. If sand or shot
blasting is used for cleaning, lots of distortion can occur particularly
in
over enthusiastic hands, but alloy panels can be problematic. Media / bead
blasting is much kinder to thin metal but it is not good at removing rust.
Chemical cleaning is good for removing rust but leaves pitting and the
powder is not very good at filling imperfections.On my car the ‘black parts’ ie heater, air canister etc I painted using
celullose paint as you can fill and rub flat hiding imperfections, and on
the rear subframe I used black Hammerite Smooth ( the non hammered
variety )
recently mentioned on this list.When you bolt parts together following painting, cracking will always
occur,
I allow for this by dipping the bolt into a tub of body wax and following
tightening wip off the surplus and you have sealed all the cracks from
moisture penetration.On the front suspension components including wish bones I had them chrome
plated but not polished, which gives a matt finish.The finish is almost
the
same as the original cad plating but has a greatly improved corrosion
resistance.Regards
David Tinker. Wales UK
----- Original Message -----
From: “Jerry Mouton” jerry@moutons.org
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Powder Coating stuffEric,
Over time I have had
pretty much every “black painted” part on the car powder coated.
Once you pay the setup base cost, the additional cost of another
little bracket is minimal, so I stripped off everything I could
find and sent the whole lot in (took me two batches).I had the same experience as quoted – heater, air canister,
rear suspension parts, half shafts, various mountings, anti-roll bar,
mud shields by front wheels, reservac tank, almost everything was
great. There was some warping of the air canister and mudguards,
but they bent back into shape very easilyAluminum bottom panels under the brake bottles and oil filter
warped and had noticeable craters all over. I can’t say if that
it was material, poor cleaning, or what. Since you can’t see the
finish of these parts very well anyway, I just left them and
they are pretty satisfactory. They took some careful rebending, as
they warped more than steel parts.Half shaft bearing mounts were
coated internally and it was a real bear getting those clean and still
to spec. That coating is rock-hard. A risk I was told of by my
machinists is that as you clean out holes, the surface can crack
off a wide area around your work if you’re not careful,
eliminating protection and looking crappy. I was lucky. I should have
taken it back and had them do it over, but that entails additional risk
and time, so I just fixed it myself.OTOH, it can be scratched pretty easily, as some minor cleaning
on the heater (careless) raised scratches more than I would have
expected. Polish and wax cleaned them up pretty well.There was discussion a year or more ago about the black finish on the
parts mentioned. Gloss makes them look too flashy and not as they came
from the factory. Mine are 60% gloss finish, and they look pretty much
just like the originals. Coaters can give you any amount of flatness
you want, you might consider a semi-gloss finish of some kind.I highly recommend powder coating, but you have to be absolutely sure
that all the mounting holes in machined parts are completely masked
– some supervision may be required depending on the vendor. My guy is
a car collector and E Type owner, and his guys still missed a few key
places even after I carefully pointed them out. I’d try a written list
with
diagrams next time I did it.Jerry
'64 FHC
Jerry Mouton mailto:jerry@moutons.org Laissez les bons temps
rouler!
