[E-Type] fuel flow to SUs

Please give me your input/experience on this. I want to set
up a small tank above the fuel bowl on my S1 for a few tries
at starting it. Will gravity alone provide adequate inflow
to the three SUs for this?
Bruce–
Bruce Harless, '64 S1 ots
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In reply to a message from BruceHarless sent Wed 26 Jan 2011:

Yes, it will, for low speed/idle running…–
The original message included these comments:

Please give me your input/experience on this. I want to set
up a small tank above the fuel bowl on my S1 for a few tries
at starting it. Will gravity alone provide adequate inflow
to the three SUs for this?


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from BruceHarless sent Wed 26 Jan 2011:

Bruce

The SU specification calls for a fuel pressure of 2psi. The E-
Type fuel pump is rated at 3.5psi to allow the car to ascend
the steepest gradients without problem. As Paul suggests, you
can pootle along with a gravity feed and idle but not put your
foot down.

David–
The original message included these comments:

Please give me your input/experience on this. I want to set
up a small tank above the fuel bowl on my S1 for a few tries
at starting it. Will gravity alone provide adequate inflow
to the three SUs for this?
Bruce


David Jones, S1 OTS
Nottingham, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Heuer sent Wed 26 Jan 2011:

David and Wigs,
Thanks for your reply. I want to do this only as a means of
getting it to run, without filling the tank yet. Tell me one
other thing – with that small tank sitting 12’’ above the
filter bowl, will there be any degree of suction on that
line, such that would make up for any of the difference in
having the fuel pump hooked up?

I never thought about the pump compensating for going uphill
– really interesting. Thanks again,
Bruce–
The original message included these comments:

The SU specification calls for a fuel pressure of 2psi. The E-
Type fuel pump is rated at 3.5psi to allow the car to ascend
the steepest gradients without problem. As Paul suggests, you
can pootle along with a gravity feed and idle but not put your
foot down.
David


Bruce Harless, '64 S1 ots
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In reply to a message from BruceHarless sent Wed 26 Jan 2011:

Bruce : when I rebuilt my engine I test ran it out of the car
initially by taking the float chamber lids off and just topping the
chambers every minute or so from a bottle . A chamber full lasts a
surprising amount of time - well in excess of 1 minute IIRC . A
gravity tank of the sort you suggest is almost certain to work, but
it is easier to see what is happening if you have the lids off.
Having got it started and checked for oil leaks etc, I then jury
rigged a pump and bench ran it for 3 hours in 12 minute bursts–
christopher storey
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In reply to a message from BruceHarless sent Wed 26 Jan 2011:

I assume you are going to hook a like somewhere downstream from the
fuel filter and upstream of the steel pipe that feeds the three
carbs. I’d pull the fuel pump fuse or unplug the power lead at the
pump.–
John Walker, 1969 E-type 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
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In reply to a message from christopher storey sent Wed 26 Jan 2011:

Christopher, thanks for the tip. I have stale gas in my tank and
your scheme allows me to start the engine before pulling the tank.
Bob 64 OTS–
The original message included these comments:

Bruce : when I rebuilt my engine I test ran it out of the car
initially by taking the float chamber lids off and just topping the
chambers every minute or so from a bottle . A chamber full lasts a
surprising amount of time - well in excess of 1 minute IIRC . A
gravity tank of the sort you suggest is almost certain to work, but
it is easier to see what is happening if you have the lids off.
Having got it started and checked for oil leaks etc, I then jury
rigged a pump and bench ran it for 3 hours in 12 minute bursts
christopher storey


BobEJag
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In reply to a message from christopher storey sent Wed 26 Jan 2011:

Hi
Something to bear in mind is glazing of the bores if you
have new rings in newly honed bores.
Under normal circumstances one would rev the engine a number
of times after confiming oil pressure etc; to seat the rings
properly.
Roger–
spitzstick
hobart, Australia
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In reply to a message from John Walker sent Wed 26 Jan 2011:

John, I will feed from the temp tank directly into the steel
line to the carbs. The temp tank will sit just above the
windshield washer bottle bracket, and I’ll connect a jumper
hose to the hose south of the filter bowl.

I have a hidden switch on my fuel pump line, so I can take
it out of the equation in a heartbeat.

It would seem that filling the bowls prior to starting would
be a good priming action – thanks for all the ideas and
suggestions,everyone. I wish I had a forum like this for
about six other major life issues!
Bruce–
The original message included these comments:

I assume you are going to hook a like somewhere downstream from the
fuel filter and upstream of the steel pipe that feeds the three
pump.


Bruce Harless, '64 S1 ots
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In reply to a message from spitzstick sent Thu 27 Jan 2011:

Roger et al, I am starting with a completely new engine –
new liners, pistons, rings, etc. The car has fired up one
time, just long enough to pump 4 qts of oil onto my
driveway. I think it is ready to actually RUN now. So,
assuming that happens, and properly, I will be able to
connect and (partially) fill the newly-lined tank with
little fanfare.

So how long is ‘‘too much’’ for that initial slow-speed
running? How much literal time can/should I run the new
engine with no load, just sitting in the driveway? What is
the magic solution to the question of how to drive the car
and properly break in the engine before you are somewhat
satisfied the vehicle will complete a given round trip?
Bruce–
The original message included these comments:

Something to bear in mind is glazing of the bores if you
have new rings in newly honed bores.
Under normal circumstances one would rev the engine a number
of times after confiming oil pressure etc; to seat the rings
properly.


Bruce Harless, '64 S1 ots
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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In reply to a message from BruceHarless sent Thu 27 Jan 2011:

So how long is ‘‘too much’’ for that initial slow-speed
running? How much literal time can/should I run the new
engine with no load, just sitting in the driveway?

Bruce,

My opinion is less is better. My advice would be to wait until the
tank is in place, then start it, test for leaks, set the timing and
idle, and then drive it. There really is no point in running it at
idle, especially if it is going to sit for any length of time.

If you read the window sticker than came from the factory,
the ‘‘break in’’ period was several thousand miles. ‘‘Do not exceed
2500 rpm for 1000 miles, 3000 rpm for 2500 miles and only use
minimum throttle openning’’. My opinion is that this was warranty
and liability driven and is not the best strategy. My preference
is to fill up with a good non sythetic oil, prime the oil system
with pressure or cranking without plugs, fire up the engine, make
the basic setting and get it under load with a minimum of idling.
Many sources say no idling for the first 20 minutes for cam break
in, you probably don’t have a new cam or pushrods, but that is not
bad advice for other reasons. What is a ‘‘good oil’’ today is a real
debate. Once the engine is warm, do not drive it around under
minimum throttle openning, vary the throttle opening under load to
help seat the rings. Keep the rpm between 1500 and 3000 and avoid
higher rpm for at least a few hundred miles. Change the oil and
filter at 500 miles.

The way to build confidence in a new rebuild is to take
progressively longer trips. Start with a few miles in circles and
work up to 10, 20 and 50 mile trips. The important thing is to get
it hot and drive it under load so you can make the little
adjustments that will make it a delight to drive. Good luck.

Paul–
The original message included these comments:

Roger et al, I am starting with a completely new engine –
new liners, pistons, rings, etc. The car has fired up one
time, just long enough to pump 4 qts of oil onto my
driveway. I think it is ready to actually RUN now. So,
assuming that happens, and properly, I will be able to
connect and (partially) fill the newly-lined tank with
little fanfare.
So how long is ‘‘too much’’ for that initial slow-speed
running? How much literal time can/should I run the new
engine with no load, just sitting in the driveway? What is
the magic solution to the question of how to drive the car


PS
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In reply to a message from PS sent Thu 27 Jan 2011:

Paul, thanks for the synopsis. I will print and do this. I
tend to get lost in the details, but your comments make
sense to me. Bruce–
The original message included these comments:

My opinion is less is better. My advice would be to wait until the
tank is in place, then start it, test for leaks, set the timing and
idle, and then drive it. There really is no point in running it at
idle, especially if it is going to sit for any length of time.


Bruce Harless, '64 S1 ots
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In reply to a message from BruceHarless sent Thu 27 Jan 2011:

Hi
My regular approach is much the same as Pauls, I start the
engine check oil pressure look for leaks if ok then blip
throttle up to 1000 revs a few times then 2000 reves a few
times check engine temp’ oil pressure and leaks if ok then
take it for a drive making the engine ‘work’ but keeping
revs below 3000.
Roger–
spitzstick
hobart, Australia
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