[E-Type] Fuel tank bladders

E-Type
1

Hello Friends,

This is an on-topic question for an off-topic car; Specifically, my
new MG TD project.

The tank on my car has a lot of surface rust on the outside, and a
little on the inside, BUT the metal is still strong. I will be
refinishing the exterior of the tank as it remains visible on the TD,
and I will chemically de-rust the inside of the tank, after which it
will get a slosh-coating of sealant. The product I am using is from
Moss Motors and is designed specifically for fuel tanks AND alcohol
polluted gasoline. (Read a little disgust into the last few words
there…)

I write to ask if any of you have had problems with these kinds of
products. Please keep in mind that the TD is REALLY primitive. It
doesn’t even have a fuel level gauge, just a float that tells the
driver, via a light, that a couple of gallons remain in the tank! So
except for the inlet, the hole for the sensor and the outlet, that’s
it. Otherwise, its a metal can. New tanks are $1300+ before shipping
so the $50 bladder solution is appealing, especially since the
integrity of the tank is still viable. Advice encouraged - and
appreciated.

best,

rick lindsay / '73 E-type, and other cars______________________________________________________
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2

If the tank is sound as you indicate, I would skip the sealant. If the tank is easy in/easy out it can be done at a future date if necessary. My $.02

Dave B
'73 2+2-----Original Message-----
From: owner-e-type@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-e-type@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 10:50 AM
To: E-Type mail list
Subject: [E-Type] Fuel tank bladders

Hello Friends,

This is an on-topic question for an off-topic car; Specifically, my new MG TD project.

The tank on my car has a lot of surface rust on the outside, and a little on the inside, BUT the metal is still strong. I will be refinishing the exterior of the tank as it remains visible on the TD, and I will chemically de-rust the inside of the tank, after which it will get a slosh-coating of sealant. The product I am using is from Moss Motors and is designed specifically for fuel tanks AND alcohol polluted gasoline. (Read a little disgust into the last few words
there…)

I write to ask if any of you have had problems with these kinds of products. Please keep in mind that the TD is REALLY primitive. It doesn’t even have a fuel level gauge, just a float that tells the driver, via a light, that a couple of gallons remain in the tank! So except for the inlet, the hole for the sensor and the outlet, that’s it. Otherwise, its a metal can. New tanks are $1300+ before shipping so the $50 bladder solution is appealing, especially since the integrity of the tank is still viable. Advice encouraged - and appreciated.

best,

rick lindsay / '73 E-type, and other cars

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3

Thanks its held in place with two straps ‘secured’ (word used
fearfully) by four bolts. My concern is just how much rust may
reappear on the inner surface. The exterior will be treated with
POR15 after sanding and before final painting.On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 11:03 AM, Braun, David G. Dave.Braun@fhr.com wrote:

If the tank is sound as you indicate, I would skip the sealant. If the tank is easy in/easy out it can be done at a future date if necessary. My $.02

Dave B
'73 2+2

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-e-type@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-e-type@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 10:50 AM
To: E-Type mail list
Subject: [E-Type] Fuel tank bladders

Hello Friends,

This is an on-topic question for an off-topic car; Specifically, my new MG TD project.

The tank on my car has a lot of surface rust on the outside, and a little on the inside, BUT the metal is still strong. I will be refinishing the exterior of the tank as it remains visible on the TD, and I will chemically de-rust the inside of the tank, after which it will get a slosh-coating of sealant. The product I am using is from Moss Motors and is designed specifically for fuel tanks AND alcohol polluted gasoline. (Read a little disgust into the last few words
there…)

I write to ask if any of you have had problems with these kinds of products. Please keep in mind that the TD is REALLY primitive. It doesn’t even have a fuel level gauge, just a float that tells the driver, via a light, that a couple of gallons remain in the tank! So except for the inlet, the hole for the sensor and the outlet, that’s it. Otherwise, its a metal can. New tanks are $1300+ before shipping so the $50 bladder solution is appealing, especially since the integrity of the tank is still viable. Advice encouraged - and appreciated.

best,

rick lindsay / '73 E-type, and other cars

Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/ Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
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Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
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4

Richard-
I should add that my opinion is partially based on a sealed motorcycle tank. The sealant separated from the metal and started coming off in chunks. This was done by the PO so I don’t know if it was applied correctly or not. I also suspect that sealers are much more advanced these days. But, again, if the interior is sound, I’d skip the sealant.

Dave
'73 2+2-----Original Message-----
From: owner-e-type@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-e-type@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 10:50 AM
To: E-Type mail list
Subject: [E-Type] Fuel tank bladders

Hello Friends,

This is an on-topic question for an off-topic car; Specifically, my new MG TD project.

The tank on my car has a lot of surface rust on the outside, and a little on the inside, BUT the metal is still strong. I will be refinishing the exterior of the tank as it remains visible on the TD, and I will chemically de-rust the inside of the tank, after which it will get a slosh-coating of sealant. The product I am using is from Moss Motors and is designed specifically for fuel tanks AND alcohol polluted gasoline. (Read a little disgust into the last few words
there…)

I write to ask if any of you have had problems with these kinds of products. Please keep in mind that the TD is REALLY primitive. It doesn’t even have a fuel level gauge, just a float that tells the driver, via a light, that a couple of gallons remain in the tank! So except for the inlet, the hole for the sensor and the outlet, that’s it. Otherwise, its a metal can. New tanks are $1300+ before shipping so the $50 bladder solution is appealing, especially since the integrity of the tank is still viable. Advice encouraged - and appreciated.

best,

rick lindsay / '73 E-type, and other cars

Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/ Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

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5

In reply to a message from Richard Lindsay sent Tue 26 Mar 2013:

Richard; I bought a MG TC in 1973 and restored it over a 10 year
period finishing in 1985. The tank had a ‘few pin holes’ in the
sides of the tank near the bottom brought on by debre between the
tank and the end cap. I ‘fixed’ it with a fiberglasss patch ( no
one has ever accussed me of being smart) which lasted 8 years then
it started to leak (drip).
I had the tank fixed by a welding/tank repair place in Rapid City
(they wouldn’t let me take the tank into their shop til they
cleaned it out side) by welding metal on the lower portion of the
ends. When I got it home I cleaned the inside and then sealed it
with products from Bill Hirsch in NJ.
Since that time I have driven it 12,000 miles and had no problems.
If it starts leaking tomorrow I have had my moneys worth.
Good Luck with your TC project. Joel.–
The original message included these comments:

Hello Friends,
This is an on-topic question for an off-topic car; Specifically, my
new MG TD project.

–
49mgtc/mgbgt/jag e type 70 2+2
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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6

In reply to a message from Richard Lindsay sent Tue 26 Mar 2013:

Rick - You should run this by the mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
where this is a common topic with lot’s of archive data.

Ed Pohle
67 S1 2+2
48 MGTC
Squaw Valley, CA–
Beardog
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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7

Dave, Same thing here on an XK120, except in my case the sealant came off in
sheets. The sealant was applied by a reputable radiator business.
Larry----- Original Message ----
From: “Braun, David G.” Dave.Braun@fhr.com
To: "e-type@jag-lovers.org" e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tue, March 26, 2013 9:56:16 AM
Subject: RE: [E-Type] Fuel tank bladders

Richard-
I should add that my opinion is partially based on a sealed motorcycle tank.
The sealant separated from the metal and started coming off in chunks. This was
done by the PO so I don’t know if it was applied correctly or not. I also
suspect that sealers are much more advanced these days. But, again, if the
interior is sound, I’d skip the sealant.

Dave
'73 2+2

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-e-type@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-e-type@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf
Of Richard Lindsay
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 10:50 AM
To: E-Type mail list
Subject: [E-Type] Fuel tank bladders

Hello Friends,

This is an on-topic question for an off-topic car; Specifically, my new MG TD
project.

The tank on my car has a lot of surface rust on the outside, and a little on the
inside, BUT the metal is still strong. I will be refinishing the exterior of
the tank as it remains visible on the TD, and I will chemically de-rust the
inside of the tank, after which it will get a slosh-coating of sealant. The
product I am using is from Moss Motors and is designed specifically for fuel
tanks AND alcohol polluted gasoline. (Read a little disgust into the last few
words
there…)

I write to ask if any of you have had problems with these kinds of products.
Please keep in mind that the TD is REALLY primitive. It doesn’t even have a
fuel level gauge, just a float that tells the driver, via a light, that a couple
of gallons remain in the tank! So except for the inlet, the hole for the sensor
and the outlet, that’s it. Otherwise, its a metal can. New tanks are $1300+
before shipping so the $50 bladder solution is appealing, especially since the
integrity of the tank is still viable. Advice encouraged - and appreciated.

best,

rick lindsay / '73 E-type, and other cars

Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/ Subscription
changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

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Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php