[E-Type] Garage floor paint

I’m getting ready to paint the floor in my new garage and have been
advised to use a two part epoxy paint. Can anyone recommend a brand of
paint and how difficult is it to apply? The concrete is only two weeks
old.

Len
68 OTS
692+2
86 XJS

In a message dated 08/18/1999 11:31:19 PM EST, lenscats@flash.net writes:

<< The concrete is only two weeks
old. >>

You need to wait at least 90 days for the bulk of the moisture to leave the
concrete before you try to paint it. Also…some epoxy paint will say that
it cannot be used if the floor has been sealed. As most have. Or it must be
stripped. At the suggestion of a friend, I painted over cleaned sealer but
in cool weather. The solvents in the paint do not flash off as quick and
they will etch into the sealer longer. Theory at least. It has been on for
9 months and looks good.

Regards,

Bob

I’m getting ready to paint the floor in my new garage and have been
advised to use a two part epoxy paint. Can anyone recommend a brand of
paint and how difficult is it to apply? The concrete is only two weeks
old.

I was researching 2-part epoxy garage floor paints a couple months ago, as
I plan on painting my new garage floor in the near future. I found several
brands, but I could find no compelling scientific evidence that one brand
is better than the other. That doesn’t mean that there aren’t differences,
just that I don’t know what they are. As a result, I plan on getting the
stuff that is readily available at the local Home Depot. I think it was
Rustoleum brand, and came in 2 one-gallon cans that you mix together to
make enough paint to do a 2-car garage. They have some grit designed to be
added in if you want a non-skid surface. I plan on doing this also.

Every brand of 2-part epoxy I found recommended letting a new floor cure
for at least 30 days. My new floor is about a month and a half old, and if
I lay a sheet of plastic down (to catch the oil drips under the jag) and
then lift it back up a while later, there is moisture on the concrete
surface. I think Bob’s suggestion to wait at least 90 days is a good one.
There needs to be a vapor barrier (i.e. sheets of plastic) under the slab
to prevent ground moisture from migrating up through the concrete and then
getting trapped at the surface under the epoxy that you paint on. I hope
that was done under your new floor.

The mason who did the work on my garage sprayed some sort of sealer/curing
compound on the concrete surfaces that he poured outside the garage, but
specifically did NOT spray this stuff on the inside where I told him I was
going to paint with 2-part epoxy. If he had sprayed it, I believe I would
have had to remove it all to be able to paint the floor.

Also, every brand of epoxy I found also said that you have to etch the
surface with muriatic acid before painting. The mason who did the work on
my garage said that you never get all the acid out of the pores in the
surface of the concrete, and then you have problems later and your
carefully painted on surface starts to bubble up. His recommendation was
to not do the acid etch. I don’t know who to believe on this one, although
I’m inclined to follow the manufacturers instructions on the epoxy.

I hope this helps, and good luck!

Ken Carlson
Rochester, NY
'71 S2 OTS

When concrete is 3 weeks old, it is at 75% hardness. Then you can do all
sorts of stuff safely.
LLoyd cement class 101, with lab

Len Wheeler wrote:> I’m getting ready to paint the floor in my new garage and have been

advised to use a two part epoxy paint. Can anyone recommend a brand of
paint and how difficult is it to apply? The concrete is only two weeks
old.

Len
68 OTS
692+2
86 XJS

Ken, I tried the epoxy paint - after- muriatic acid route…and your man was
right…the excess muriatic, trapped in the pores of the floor, leached up into
little “white” bubbles under the floor. As we use this area for fibreglassing,
we have ignored the mess, but I would HATE to see you suffer the same fate.

IF you use muriatic, I would strongle suggest washing with water a couple of
times a day or two apart, then rinsing with some sort of “base” solution to
neutralize the acid remnants, then rinse again a couple of times.

Good luck!

Tom Owen
Toronto, Canada

Ken Carlson wrote:> >I’m getting ready to paint the floor in my new garage and have been

advised to use a two part epoxy paint. Can anyone recommend a brand of
paint and how difficult is it to apply? The concrete is only two weeks
old.

I was researching 2-part epoxy garage floor paints a couple months ago, as
I plan on painting my new garage floor in the near future. I found several
brands, but I could find no compelling scientific evidence that one brand
is better than the other. That doesn’t mean that there aren’t differences,
just that I don’t know what they are. As a result, I plan on getting the
stuff that is readily available at the local Home Depot. I think it was
Rustoleum brand, and came in 2 one-gallon cans that you mix together to
make enough paint to do a 2-car garage. They have some grit designed to be
added in if you want a non-skid surface. I plan on doing this also.

Every brand of 2-part epoxy I found recommended letting a new floor cure
for at least 30 days. My new floor is about a month and a half old, and if
I lay a sheet of plastic down (to catch the oil drips under the jag) and
then lift it back up a while later, there is moisture on the concrete
surface. I think Bob’s suggestion to wait at least 90 days is a good one.
There needs to be a vapor barrier (i.e. sheets of plastic) under the slab
to prevent ground moisture from migrating up through the concrete and then
getting trapped at the surface under the epoxy that you paint on. I hope
that was done under your new floor.

The mason who did the work on my garage sprayed some sort of sealer/curing
compound on the concrete surfaces that he poured outside the garage, but
specifically did NOT spray this stuff on the inside where I told him I was
going to paint with 2-part epoxy. If he had sprayed it, I believe I would
have had to remove it all to be able to paint the floor.

Also, every brand of epoxy I found also said that you have to etch the
surface with muriatic acid before painting. The mason who did the work on
my garage said that you never get all the acid out of the pores in the
surface of the concrete, and then you have problems later and your
carefully painted on surface starts to bubble up. His recommendation was
to not do the acid etch. I don’t know who to believe on this one, although
I’m inclined to follow the manufacturers instructions on the epoxy.

I hope this helps, and good luck!

Ken Carlson
Rochester, NY
'71 S2 OTS

I’m getting ready to paint the floor in my new garage and have been
advised to use a two part epoxy paint. Can anyone recommend a brand of
paint and how difficult is it to apply? The concrete is only two weeks
old.

Len
68 OTS
692+2
86 XJS----- Original Message -----
From: Len Wheeler lenscats@flash.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 1999 12:25 AM
Subject: [E-Type] Garage floor paint

=========================================================
Len & List

Sorry for the delay, was out of town on work related travel and then banged
up an ankle rather badly trying not to fall on one of our dogs — reasoning
was
that if I broke him, I’d have to pay OR if I broke me insurance would pay,
so
OUCH.

Stull I recomemnd is: SIKAGARD 62 by Sika Corporation.

A two-part non-smelly // non-toxic mixture that comes in grey, tan, and now
white.
Water is “NO” problem. Brochure states that it can go on over a damp
surface
and will hardend under water. It is so non-toxic that it is used to coat
the inside
of potable water storage tanks and also milk storage tanks.

Gets rock hard in 40 minutes and surface will take vehicles after 24 hours
with
no wear or scuffing. Mine has been down for 18 months and it has been
super. Nothing I’ve dropped on it in the way of liquids has an effect on
it. The
only thing that will discolor (discolour - for Dan) is sunlight. It puts a
slight
yellow cast or tinge to it but this is no problem for me. Oil and auto like
liquids will actually pool up nicely and can be squgeed (sp - that little
rubber
thing on a stick) to a centeral point and sooped up with a rag. Floor
cleans
up very well with soak & water. Skuff marks from work boots come up very
nicely with acetone and it doe not harm or mark the surface in the process.

Itis a bit on the expensive side compaired to other products out there.
BUT,
my neighbor had tried no less then 7 different products on his garage floor
over the past 16 years and all failed in one form or another. Most shortly
after
the winter season with dripping road chemicals. He saw my floor, got some
to redo his and now swears by it. And he is OCD and still happy with it.

I have no ties to Sika Corp., just used their product and swear by it from
experience.

Mike O’

Hi Mike

OCD…???

(From dumb colonial)
Noel Annett
68 2+2
Canberra, Australia-----Original Message-----
From: Mike O’Rourke [mailto:wmor@ix.netcom.com]

	He saw my floor, got some to redo his and now swears by it.

And he is OCD and still happy with it.