I want to replace the three heater pipes behind the firewall on my
71 OTS. I’ve been told the way to access them is by removing the
windshield & dash top but, I can’t see that gains the necessary
access. Can someone who has actually replaced these give me
direction…how do I get to these pipes? Thanks, Randy Schmidt–
frogleg
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from frogleg sent Thu 17 Feb 2011:
I eliminated those pipes by rerouting the water with hoses
going directly to the heater with shutoff valves for the
summer.
Walter--
The original message included these comments:
I want to replace the three heater pipes behind the firewall on my
71 OTS. I’ve been told the way to access them is by removing the
windshield & dash top but, I can’t see that gains the necessary
access. Can someone who has actually replaced these give me
direction…how do I get to these pipes? Thanks, Randy Schmidt
–
Walter Schuster 78XJ6 FI Ser.II
Albuquerque/New Mexico, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from frogleg sent Thu 17 Feb 2011:
Randy : this is a pig of a job but can be done with patience and an
assistant with small hands. Remove dash top . Remove wiper linkage
completely . Remove the heater valve - this is often easier said
than done because of corrosion . Drill out the rivets holding the
pipes to the bulkhead and push the pipes backwards to disengage
the protruding sections of pipe. The pipes can then usually be
removed by pushing them fully to the left of the bulkhead and then
taking the right side out through the centre hole. New installation
is the reverse, but it often helps to poke a scredriver through the
bulkhead holes to ‘’ capture’’ the forward facing bit of the new pipe
and draw it through the bulkhead. Be warned that the pipes often
have to be bent(slightly) to get the protrusions facing forward at
right angles to the bulkhead. When in position, re-rivet–
christopher storey
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from frogleg sent Thu 17 Feb 2011:
Randy, having just done my '70 FHC last summer, I have a
vivid recollection of the procedure. You’re right, the
windshield does not have to be removed. And Lester is right
that the IRS need not be dropped. However, the job would
have been easier without the engine in place. Squeezing a
pop-rivet gun into position to secure the washers is
devilishly difficult. In fact, I never did get one of the
rivets back in place.
You might want to remove the wiper rack, as I did. It
provides a rare opportunity lubricate it, and a little more
working room for meaty hands.
I hope that you’ve ordered a new heater valve. My original
was galvanically and permanently welded to the pipe. Good luck.–
Randall Carlson '70 FHC
Fairfield CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Rancarl sent Thu 17 Feb 2011:
My advice after replacing the far left heater pipe:
push stiff wire through the tube before pulling it out. When you
pull it out, pull the wire all the way through the bulkhead with
it. Before feeding in the new tube, feed the wire through the new
tube. Pull the wire and see how a plan neatly comes together
Pop riveting did not work for me, I used screws.
I did it through the hole behind the centre fold-down section,
without removing the dash top! I am not sure if that would work for
replacing all the pipes, though.
Cheers, Andrys–
Andrys, '69 e-type 2+2 back on the road since 14.10.2009
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from frogleg sent Thu 17 Feb 2011:
Oh… one last thing. Put the long one in first. One end will
have to be pushed down into a corner that you can not see to
allow the entire thing to go into that hole behind the dash,
it goes down and forward and you may have to spin it a bit to
gain enough room to get it behind the dash. Yes, it will
work.
In reply to a message from saabguy sent Fri 18 Feb 2011:
If the engine is out, it makes the job easier. With engine
in, it gets more problematical.
I tapped the pipe flanges to take #6 Allen screws instead of
using pop rivets. Riveting is near to impossible with the
engine in. Drilling the old rivets may or may not be a
problem depending on the tools you have.
I ran 6ft of stretch cord through the pipes. I ran the cord
into the old pipe and secured it so that it pulled through
with the old pipe, then ran the cord through the new pipe
and used the cord to assist in positioning the pipe as well
as providing some leverage to hold the pipe in position
while securing it. I just tied the cord off to any
convenient place.
Dash top off helps as it worked better for me to remove some
the wiper mechanism in order to fit my hands and the new
pipe into the center dash hole. Do not under any
circumstances lose the little clips that hold the wiper rods
on the ball. They are unobtainable.–
Gary Herzberg, 63 3.8 FHC 66 Series 1 OTS, 98 xk8
Montana, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Andrys Posthuma sent Fri 18 Feb 2011:
I did my SII a few months ago. Easy enough to remove but tougher to
replace. I did not remove the entire wiper assemby, which would
have helped, but did remove the vacuum pipe from behind the dash
for ease of access ( after threading wire through it for easier
relocation. Removing the dash cover pad is a must (I think) but
don’t know if your configuration is the same. Many folks get
stainless pipes but they’re not pre-drilled for the rivets, which
is a bear. I got regular, pre-drilled pipes from SNG.
Don’t change the heater valve unless really necessary as those
available don’t fit (an SII). I bought one and had to take it apart
and rotate the cable end 20 degrees. I believe SNG will be getting
correct valves in the Spring if you can wait.–
Alan.Barclay - 1970 SII FHC & 2004 XK8-Conv
Carrollton, TX, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Gary Herzberg sent Fri 18 Feb 2011:
Oh yeah… don’t bother trying to drill the rivets out, take
a screwdriver as a chisel and just tab the rivet heads off.
As to re-riveting with the engine in place you need a a CHEAP
stamped steel rivet gun, they are very thin (and flat-ish) and
will allow you to take care of most of the rivets with the
engine in place.
In reply to a message from Alan Of E sent Fri 18 Feb 2011:
The stainless pipes from John Farrell ARE drilled for the rivets
(or at least the ones I bought a couple of years ago were). They
also fit perfectly - no bending required.
-David–
The original message included these comments:
don’t know if your configuration is the same. Many folks get
stainless pipes but they’re not pre-drilled for the rivets, which
is a bear. I got regular, pre-drilled pipes from SNG.
–
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from davidxk sent Fri 18 Feb 2011:
I also used John Farrell’s stainless steel pipes, and they fit
perfectly, rivet holes and all, highly recommended! Have to admit
not too much on these E machines that is all that simple, just made
to keep us all humble and scratching our heads. Bob–
The original message included these comments:
The stainless pipes from John Farrell ARE drilled for the rivets
In reply to a message from Gary Herzberg sent Fri 18 Feb 2011:
I did that too, but w/o MAX, there was NO WAY I could have
done it w/o removing the wiper rack. I did but she was able
to snake in her skinny arms such that it may have been
possible with them in situ.
I NEVER wanna do that job again!!!–
The original message included these comments:
I tapped the pipe flanges to take #6 Allen screws instead of
using pop rivets. Riveting is near to impossible with the
Dash top off helps as it worked better for me to remove some
the wiper mechanism in order to fit my hands and the new
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Fri 18 Feb 2011:
Veeeery interesting… how what is simple for one is not for
another…
As long as you start with the long one first I had no
problems, maybe it’s all those years doing root canals or
something but I held the center of the pipe and got it through
one hole then pivoted it around from that point until it went
into the second hole… I did get one sone to apply forward
pressure on each pipe as I put the pop-rivets in though.
I did it through the hole behind the centre fold-down section,
without removing the dash top! I am not sure if that would work for
replacing all the pipes, though.
<<<<<<<From: “Andrys Posthuma” andrys_posthuma@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Heater Pipes replacement
