[E-Type] Help - dwell and timing

I replaced by points, rotor, cap, coil, wires, plugs last weekend -
Set dwell angle (37degrees and set idle timing to 10BTDC). Car ran
well (it was warmed up). I tried to start it today and it was a
bear (previously it would start on one turn with horrible pitted
points I might add) took 5 minutes of lovable cranking. I then
checked dwell and noticed it was at 39. So I went to reset the
dwell to 35 and now the car won’t start at all. So I look at the
dwell meter as I was cranking and get a dwell reading about 35 (Is
that a decent measure or not?). I then went to set the static
timing thinking what the &^%* is wrong. I normally set the timing
at idle. So the manual says to rotate engine until at desired mark
(10BTDC) and then rotate distributor until points are breaking -
when lamp lights up with the fibre heel leading the approrpiate cam
lobe in the normal direction of rotation - What does that mean?

If both dwell and timing looks good any suggestions on the non start

thanks–
GatorJag
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In a message dated 9/17/2005 10:24:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
melinda_bob@verizon.net writes:
If both dwell and timing looks good any suggestions on the non start

My favorite trick is to get a small amount of oil from oily feeler gauges on
the points. Even oil from your hands will cause problems.

I would start by making sure you’re getting a spark at the plugs. I use
another spark plug, remove one lead from the engine, connect it to the plug and
use a single jumper wire to ground the plug. Crank and watch for spark.

Best, Mike Moore

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In reply to a message from MMoore8425@aol.com sent Sat 17 Sep 2005:

I have spark at all plugs but she still won’t start - It seems to
me it can only be a timing issue or an air/fuel mixture problem.

BTW any northern VA etype experts out there?–
The original message included these comments:

If both dwell and timing looks good any suggestions on the non start
use a single jumper wire to ground the plug. Crank and watch for spark.


GatorJag
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In reply to a message from GatorJag sent Sat 17 Sep 2005:

Rotate engine till points are on highest point on distributor
lobe, set points with feeler gage to .016’’.
Start engine and set timing with strobe light to 10Deg. at
1,000rpm.

                                 Walter
                                 69E ser.II--

The original message included these comments:

I replaced by points, rotor, cap, coil, wires, plugs last weekend -


Walter Schuster 78XJ6LFI Ser.II, 69Eser.II 2+2
Albuquerque/New Mexico, United States
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In reply to a message from WaltSchuster sent Sun 18 Sep 2005:

I would love to but car wont start - It ran fantastic two weeks
ago - dwell at 36 degrees and timing at 10BTDC - went to start
today and it took 5 minutes of cranking to start. Before - With
old points (pitted) and corroded Dist cap - car started on one
crank.

I reset point gap and static set to 10BTDC - still wont start -
battery went dead so I am recharging tonight.

Any other suggestions - I get plenty of fuel - can smell after some
cranking - could I be way to rich or lean??–
The original message included these comments:

Rotate engine till points are on highest point on distributor
lobe, set points with feeler gage to .016’’.
Start engine and set timing with strobe light to 10Deg. at
1,000rpm.
Walter
69E ser.II


GatorJag
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In reply to a message from GatorJag sent Sat 17 Sep 2005:

What kind of car do you have? The first thing you should do
is tell us whether you have a 3.8, 4.2, Strombergs, vacuum
advance, no vacuum, vacuum retard, or V-12. Stock distributor?

The best way to set the timing on an XKE is static and the
points with a feeler gauge. Dwell meters and timing light
are pretty useless on these cars.

The biggest failure of an XKE starting after it has been
running is the coil. There are a lot of 25-to-30-year-old
coils out there being sold as NOS. Truth is that coils
degrade not only with use but with time. Get yourself a NEW
coil (they haven’t been making Pertronix long enough for
this to be a problem) and I’ll bet your car will start right up.

Richard Liggitt–
The original message included these comments:

I replaced by points, rotor, cap, coil, wires, plugs last weekend -


'70 E Roadster 1R11998, '98 XK8 Roadster, '02 Mini Cooper
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In a message dated 9/17/2005 7:46:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rcliggitt@cox.net writes:
The biggest failure of an XKE starting after it has been
running is the coil. There are a lot of 25-to-30-year-old
coils out there being sold as NOS. Truth is that coils
degrade not only with use but with time. Get yourself a NEW
coil (they haven’t been making Pertronix long enough for
this to be a problem) and I’ll bet your car will start right up.

Excellent advice! My 40 year old coil was weak.
Mike Moore

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In reply to a message from MMoore8425@aol.com sent Sun 18 Sep 2005:

I have a 69 E OTS 4.2 liter triple SU - standard ignition (points)

I will replace the coil as suggested - maybe the new one is a dud.
I set the points with a feeler gauge and set the timing at 10BTDC -
then will change the coil, charge battery and let her rip.

Thanks for the posts - I will keep you posted.–
The original message included these comments:

The biggest failure of an XKE starting after it has been
running is the coil. There are a lot of 25-to-30-year-old
coils out there being sold as NOS. Truth is that coils
degrade not only with use but with time. Get yourself a NEW
coil (they haven’t been making Pertronix long enough for
this to be a problem) and I’ll bet your car will start right up.
Excellent advice! My 40 year old coil was weak.


GatorJag
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In reply to a message from GatorJag sent Sun 18 Sep 2005:

There are Lucas sports coils on ebay, in the stores, and
elsewhere that are not only ‘‘new’’ but are very old. These
will probably fail the first time it gets really warm. I
would tend to steer you away from Lucas coils anyhow.

After going through four NOS coils in a few weeks, I finally
bought a Pertronix FlameThrower. Works fine. Note they only
have two basic coils – 12V (3 ohm) and 6V (1.5 ohm for
ballasted applications).

Note also that if you get a Pertronix coil you will need to
get a coil bracket with it as it is slightly larger in
diameter than the Lucas and will not fit in the Lucas
bracket. Prices vary all over the map so do some internet
shopping and you can find them at a reasonable price.

Richard Liggitt

Richard Liggitt–
The original message included these comments:

I will replace the coil as suggested - maybe the new one is a dud.


'70 E Roadster 1R11998, '98 XK8 Roadster, '02 Mini Cooper
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In reply to a message from Richard Liggitt sent Sun 18 Sep 2005:

Thanks to all

In the end - a frayed (sp?) wire to the positive lead on the coil.
She fires up like usual - 1 crank.

Keep drivin–
The original message included these comments:

There are Lucas sports coils on ebay, in the stores, and
elsewhere that are not only ‘‘new’’ but are very old. These
will probably fail the first time it gets really warm. I
would tend to steer you away from Lucas coils anyhow.
After going through four NOS coils in a few weeks, I finally
bought a Pertronix FlameThrower. Works fine. Note they only
have two basic coils – 12V (3 ohm) and 6V (1.5 ohm for
ballasted applications).
Note also that if you get a Pertronix coil you will need to
get a coil bracket with it as it is slightly larger in
diameter than the Lucas and will not fit in the Lucas


GatorJag
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