— www.teae.org/cooling/cooling_article.html_____________________________________________________________
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Interesting, This summer I decided to work on the cooling system on
my '68 based on the assumption that my car was running somewhat hot
(based on the gauge, no fluid loss).
The cat had the Ron Davis radiator/fan. I removed the fan and
cleaned up/rebuilt the old fans and reinstalled them with the
original shroud, modified the stone shield so that it wasn’t blocking
the lower portion of the radiator (I also put some screen wire on the
stone shield to catch the bugs), cut a piece of foam to fit over the
top of the radiator and added Water Wetter" to the coolant.
Bottom line-no significant difference according to the gauge and I
seriously doubt that I ever had a cooling problem-Doh
But Mike’s Coolcat fans are still on my wish list.
Cheers,
Name withheldOn Sep 27, 2007, at 6:37 PM, “” mmoore8425@netscape.com mmoore8425@netscape.com wrote:
Lynn G
73 2+2 (Pearle)
68 OTS (Emmy)
67 Spitfire (?)
66 Spitfire (Sweet Pea)
Boise, ID USA
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In reply to a message from sent Fri 28 Sep 2007:
The article is appropriately timed for me as I spent this
spring troubleshooting my cooling system. I removed and
inspected my water pump (all fine) and borrowed a borescope
from work to check the block and intake manifold passages
(also fine). The rad was quite ‘gungy’ so I tried the pure
acetic acid trick with a full bottle of ‘photographic stop
bath’…no change. I also tried the commercial mineral
solvents with no luck. I then had the rad recored and the
upper connection moved as per common practice. The results
on the open road, even at temperatures in the mid 30’s
(celcius) where dramatic over previous years. The temp
stayed on the ‘N’. Slowing down brough the temp up. I had
only one near boil-over this summer when I got stuck in
traffic in 35C weather with the breeze behind me. The hot
air from the engine compartment was being blown towards the
front of the car only to be sucked back in again. This was
an unusual case but demonstrated to me that we need more
airflow. This winter I plan to make a small airdam under
the rad and remove the blanking plate between the rad and
bonnet to direct air up into the rad. I also wish to add a
third fan and wire it for manual operation. I’ve been
looking at various fans but will go with the recomendations
given in the article for the 15 incher. I measured the
area of the opening and found it to be less than a third of
the rads surface area. Removing the blanking plate and
adding the scoop will increase airflow into the rad,
especially at low speed where it’s needed.–
Bent Bob
Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
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Bob,
Recoring the radiator would without question help, a LOT. Have read
here about moving the hose connection and so far only opinion that it
improves cooling so I’d reserve judgment on that point. Do not think
its common practice but could be wrong. If so all those who have done
this please raise your right hand 
Regarding a fan get the coolcat fan at:
http://coolcatcorp.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
Price is right, quality is the best and it fits, can’t beat that.
Regarding the air dam and removal of the blanking plate, if the part
is what I’m thinking the mod might work but it could also allow air to
escape from being forced to go through the radiator. Depends on the
air pressure at that spot and shooting from the hip I’m thinking there
might be lower pressure below the bonnet because of faster moving air
going under the car. While stopped an opening in that area could also
encourage warm air looping around the radiator and being inhaled by
the fan, not unlike you experienced with wind blowing from behind the
car. On my car I’ve plugged every reasonable hole in that area with
foam to force, hopefully, air from the nose of the car to go through
the radiator at road speed and to be inhaled by the fan while stopped.
Switch is a good idea.
pauls 67ots
… I then had the rad recored and the
upper connection moved as per common practice. The results
on the open road, even at temperatures in the mid 30’s
(celcius) where dramatic over previous years. The temp
stayed on the ‘N’. Slowing down brough the temp up. I had
only one near boil-over this summer when I got stuck in
traffic in 35C weather with the breeze behind me. The hot
air from the engine compartment was being blown towards the
front of the car only to be sucked back in again. This was
an unusual case but demonstrated to me that we need more
airflow. This winter I plan to make a small airdam under
the rad and remove the blanking plate between the rad and
bonnet to direct air up into the rad. I also wish to add a
third fan and wire it for manual operation. I’ve been
looking at various fans but will go with the recomendations
given in the article for the 15 incher. I measured the
area of the opening and found it to be less than a third of
the rads surface area. Removing the blanking plate and
adding the scoop will increase airflow into the rad,
especially at low speed where it’s needed.
Bent Bob
<<<<<<<<<
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Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.phpFrom: “Bent Bob” bentbobb@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Interesting cooling data from a Tiger
In reply to a message from paul spurlock sent Sat 29 Sep 2007:
Paul:
I guess I’m the one that started the discussion about moving
the radiator connection (frantically waving right hand). I did my
70 E Roadster in 1976 (100,000 miles ago) and it has never, ever
overheated. Not once since I made the radiator a true cross-flow
device.
If you have a two-fan Series II, run this experiment and report
back: Disconnect the driver’s side fan and take the car for a joy
ride. Include open road and stop-and-go traffic. Pay close
attention to the temperature gauge. Then reconnect the driver’s
fan and disconnect the passenger side fan and repeat the road
test. Pay close attention to the temperature gauge. Let us know
how it behaved in the two scenarios.–
The original message included these comments:
Recoring the radiator would without question help, a LOT. Have read
here about moving the hose connection and so far only opinion that it
improves cooling so I’d reserve judgment on that point. Do not think
its common practice but could be wrong. If so all those who have done
this please raise your right hand
–
Pete 70 XKE (193K) 88 XJ6 (241K) 88 XJ6 (230K) 60 Mini
Severna Park, Maryland, United States
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In reply to a message from paul spurlock sent Sat 29 Sep 2007:
Paul,
I’ve read the extensive conversations regarding the
under rad blanking plate and put it to the ‘boffins’ I work
for (a bunch of aircraft and aerodynamics engineers).
After many lunch time and coffee break conversations (and
several rides in the Jag) the consensus was that this would
indeed help considerably. The reasoning was that the
opening is less than a third the area of the rad which
means that airflow through the rad drops to less than a
third of the car’s speed. While you are right about the
lower pressure due to increased air velocity, the dam
should force the air up into the area in front of the rad.
At very low speeds it will also allow the fans to move more
air. I intend on rigging up a movable plate over the
winter to try it both open and closed at various speeds.
One of the guys is even writing up ‘test cards’ for me (he
really needs a vacation!). It was suggested that I perform
a static test with some small incence pucks in the garage.
We recently obtained a small ‘lipstick’ video camera that
can be mounted anywhere. I hope to put it into the opening
and put small lenghts of wool in several areas to observe
the airflow as I open and close the vent at various speeds.
Regardless of what happens, it gives us all something to
talk about!–
Bent Bob
Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
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In reply to a message from Bent Bob sent Sun 30 Sep 2007:
This is quality R&D Bob. Be interesting to see what happens…–
The original message included these comments:
I’ve read the extensive conversations regarding the
under rad blanking plate and put it to the ‘boffins’ I work
for (a bunch of aircraft and aerodynamics engineers).
After many lunch time and coffee break conversations (and
several rides in the Jag) the consensus was that this would
indeed help considerably. The reasoning was that the
opening is less than a third the area of the rad which
means that airflow through the rad drops to less than a
third of the car’s speed. While you are right about the
lower pressure due to increased air velocity, the dam
should force the air up into the area in front of the rad.
–
66 2+2, 73 OTS, 76 DD6 Coup�, 85 XJS 5sp convert
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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Pete,
I have an S1 with the big lawn mower blade, replaced by a CoolCat. I
have heard with the two fan set up if one fan isn’t running that’s big
trouble when stopped or traveling slowly as the operating fan will
draw air from the non op side of the shroud rather than though the
radiator, not good. As for moving the outlet it does seem logical
however in all the discussions of cooling that have went around here
its virtually impossible to nail down one thing that will work for all
except repairing those things that are obviously broken or a long
known weak spot. Some can’t drive in 85 degrees in traffic others can
drive at 95 with AC on, go figure. What that says to me is the oem
system will work. Its a mission of discovery to find out why they all
won’t… one I’ve been on for 29 years 
pauls 67ots
In reply to a message from paul spurlock sent Sat 29 Sep 2007:
Paul:
I guess I’m the one that started the discussion about moving
the radiator connection (frantically waving right hand). I did my
70 E Roadster in 1976 (100,000 miles ago) and it has never, ever
overheated. Not once since I made the radiator a true cross-flow
device.
If you have a two-fan Series II, run this experiment and report
back: Disconnect the driver’s side fan and take the car for a joy
ride. Include open road and stop-and-go traffic. Pay close
attention to the temperature gauge. Then reconnect the driver’s
fan and disconnect the passenger side fan and repeat the road
test. Pay close attention to the temperature gauge. Let us know
how it behaved in the two scenarios.
<<<<<<<<<
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Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.phpFrom: “Jaguarpete” jaguarpete@aol.com
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Interesting cooling data from a Tiger
Bob,
Sounds like you’ve thought this out. Wondering if rather than an air
dam you might create a scoop like arrangement in the blanking plate
area. Not unlike the scoop under the snout of the S3 cars. It would
be vulnerable to speed bumps and steep driveway aprons etc. but so
would an air dam. Might even be able to make it hinged at the rear
and spring loaded or weighted so it would move up easily if hit. It
would also move the fresh air intake slightly more forward making it a
little more likely that cool air would be ingested rather than warm
air looping around under the radiator. Will be interested to see your
results.
pauls 67ots
Paul,
I’ve read the extensive conversations regarding the
under rad blanking plate and put it to the ‘boffins’ I work
for (a bunch of aircraft and aerodynamics engineers).
After many lunch time and coffee break conversations (and
several rides in the Jag) the consensus was that this would
indeed help considerably. The reasoning was that the
opening is less than a third the area of the rad which
means that airflow through the rad drops to less than a
third of the car’s speed. While you are right about the
lower pressure due to increased air velocity, the dam
should force the air up into the area in front of the rad.
At very low speeds it will also allow the fans to move more
air. I intend on rigging up a movable plate over the
winter to try it both open and closed at various speeds.
One of the guys is even writing up ‘test cards’ for me (he
really needs a vacation!). It was suggested that I perform
a static test with some small incence pucks in the garage.
We recently obtained a small ‘lipstick’ video camera that
can be mounted anywhere. I hope to put it into the opening
and put small lenghts of wool in several areas to observe
the airflow as I open and close the vent at various speeds.
Regardless of what happens, it gives us all something to
talk about!
Bent Bob
<<<<<<<<<<<<
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Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.phpFrom: “Bent Bob” bentbobb@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Interesting cooling data from a Tiger