E type is in "Time Out" for a while

My 70 E has been put in the far end of my garage, we need a break from each other. Installed 5 speed and rebuilt head. Had a vibration that now can contribute to the transmission touching cross frame. When I backed off the stabilizer and jacked up tranny vibration went away, will have to raise transmission a bit if possible? Front main seal leaking and now have correct Teflon one on its way. Now for the big problem engine is now burning a lot of oil from one or more of the front 3 cylinders. Was not a problem before I had the head rebuilt. I did clean the top of pistons while in place, maybe not a good idea?
FWIW, I used Prothane bushings in front end rebuild and the bushings supplied for the sway bar links are not usable. Alignment not correct and bind, just went back to the original style and they fit correctly. Have not driven since links installed but these Prothane gives a firmer ride, too firm for me. Maybe with the new link bushings ride will be better?
Do not want to pull engine again and if work is needed on bottom end maybe it can be done in place???
Glenn
70 E

Hopefully you were just trying to debug the issue with the stabilizer? The common wisdom is that the stabilizer shouldn’t be used long term as an adjustment method. It’s meant to be exactly neutral or you run the risk of deforming the bulkhead or tearing the bracket welds. Not sure what kind of mount is used with that gearbox, but hopefully there is some way to shim it?

What did you use to clean the pistons? Hopefully nothing abrasive like a wire brush that could break off strands and fall into the ring gap?

Yeah some people have had issues with the Prothane bar bushes. The collar isn’t the right size for the bolts, pita. The Polybush ones are better, but the big Polybush ones didn’t fit on my control arms. It’s always something.

They are firmer but I don’t find them distracting. They’re just precise. You get used to it, at least I did.

Erica
I understand the function of the stabilizer, I just removed top nut and turned the bottom ring down. This would allow upward movement of trans. New mount allows some shimming, but tunnel cover will limit how much. Yes stupid me I did briefly use a brass brush to clean tops of piston. This is now my fear! SNG stocks the Teflon front seal, part no. followed by # . Had to call them because nowhere do they state it is teflon and is cheaper the OE.

Could your problem be at the engine front mounts end o things? Did you change these? Could be causing engine/trans combo to sit low?

Have you done a hot/cold compression test, and a leak-down test?

Sometimes, fixing a head can then show up weak rings and/or exacerbate a condition of excess bore taper.

Dave
Front engine mounts are new, it is the new 5 speed transmission that sits lower at cross member that is the problem. Will need to raise with washers.
Glenn

Paul
Have done a compression test dry and pressures in the 170 to 180 range.
Wet they were higher. I do have a leak down test kit but have not tried using it on the E. On other engines had trouble getting the valves in the closed positions? Head was rebuilt with new valves and guides and valve seals.
Originally had lots of blue smoke coming out of left tail pipe and then had lots of oil in pipes and muffler. Once this burned off it only smokes when I blip throttle now. Need to take out for a hard run to see if this clears up or gets worse?
Glenn

Glenn,
Can you shim up the rear transmission mount?

pauls

Paul
Yes, that is the plan but limited by clearance at transmission tunnel cover.
Will have to wait until after Sunday, Alfa is now taken up the lift position for a Alfa tech session on Sunday.
BTW Hockey pucks make a great lifting pad for a floor jack or two post lift.
Glenn

1 Like

They’re the bomb!


One dozen pucks from Amazon for $17. delivered. Cut some slots on four of them for use on my van lift points.
Glenn

1 Like

Good luck. And BTW that’s your car in the background of my user photo.
pauls

As I’ve done with my 2 Porsches

Sorry to hear Glenn, some times a break allows us to reflect on how fortunate we are to ‘enjoy’ these cars and when your at the point your describing “absence will make the heart grow fonder” not to mention time to reflect on what might be the best path forward.
Good luck,
Cheers,
LLynn

1 Like

Thanks LLynn
I like to have all my cars in running condition. It creates stress for me if not the case. Same for maintenance around the house. Must have been trained too well in the factories and plants that I managed.
I have a friend that collects Alfas and Lancia over a dozen and most are not in running condition. This would drive me nuts! This guy does not have enough years left to get half of these cars running and he is still buying more.
To each his own I guess.
Glenn

1 Like

Hi Glenn, sorry to hear about your woes with your cat. It would seem that you have a couple of snakes to deal with and most of the replies seem to focus on the problematic 5 speed conversion.

Personally, I solved the problem of the “missing 5th” gear on my 71 Ser 2 coupe by changing out the 3.54’s for a set of 2.88’s. Did it 20 years ago no, problems and no regrets.

However what caught my attention was your recent engine work with a rebuilt head (me too) and increase in oil consumption (me too) also the drop in comp’s (me too). And like you I also sent Sylvia to her room for a couple of months as we were not on speaking terms whenr a blown head gasket (number 2) had me speaking in tongues.

However I eventually I heard her siren call, removed her cover and was seduced into solving the mystery and fixing it.

With the rebuilt head, I thought my problems were over and a summer of dependable, oil leak free motoring had me convinced until I pulled the stick and was alarmed by the very low and very black oil. Of note there was no 007 billowing blue cloud behind me when driving, to indicate a problem.

A subsequent comp test gave me the results that you have just described, in spite of 60 psi oil press and no heating problems…frustrating!

So where am I going with this?..My my plan this winter (and starting next week), is to drop the engine and send it complete (less ancillaries) to a local machine shop. I suspect, broken rings in one or two cylinders so a rebore might be in order. With great O/P, a crank polish and replacing the bearings should suffice and lastly truing the head to match the rebuilt cyl head.

Inevitably, a few “while I’m in there’s” will arise but having owned her (or being owned by her) for 30 years, I have learned to remove parts in lumps to save time. Keep us posted on your progress and findings. I will do the same when the engine shop has the block apart on the bench.
Best regards, Brian / Mytype