[E-Type] Koolmat vs Dynamat - and should I be concernedabout

In reply to a message from craig.balzer@us.army.mil sent Fri 21 Apr 2006:

Craig,

I don’t know enough to answer the Koolmat questions – but the JC
Whitney stuff I used won’t do much to deaden ir insulate sound.

The Dynamat won’t do much to keep the heat out or insulate against
sound – it’s strictly for stiffening drumming panels (which is a
very important job, the factory used Flintkote – tar paper – to
do the same and Dynamat is far superior. It’s not designed to keep
out heat.

Check the Dynamat web page
http://www.dynamat.com/products_automotive_dynamat_xtreme.html .
They do sell a thermal and acoustic insulation called Dynaliner,
which may be very interesting – I just saw it for the first time
on the website. It sticks on top of the Dynamat, not a
replacement. There are some other interesting new items, too, one
of which might work as a Dynamat plus Koolmat substitute – check
them out at the website. Then let us know how they have worked,
please.

You really have to attach Dynamat to the surface of the panel –
firmly and wihtout gaps – if you expect it to have any effect.
Dynamat attached to Koolmat or felt is useless and a big waste of
$$$. Get some and have a good look, it becomes pretty obvious.

Dynamat is as thin as the original Flintkote, so it won’t change
thickness when you replace the Flintkote with it (as you really
want to do).

You want Dynamat everywhere, then the decision of what else to put
on is ‘‘orthogonal’’ as they say. I said what I recommend (and use)
in another post.

Take a little care with insulation under the console (i.e. skip it
at all points of contact). However, I don’t know whether the S III
has the center dash problem. Couldn’t hurt to take care there.

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC
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In reply to a message from mouton sent Sat 22 Apr 2006:

I painted my floors first with Hammerite. The next owner will
either love me or hate me forever for doing this. It is hidden by
the koolmat, jute padding and carpet. This paint is so tough it
will outlast the car.–
Brad
huntington valley, PA, United States
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In reply to a message from craig.balzer@us.army.mil sent Fri 21 Apr 2006:

Craig,

All you need is Koolmat. Your comfort is gonna be all about
the hot foot (feet). I wouldn’t double them up and expect
the carpets to fit!–
The original message included these comments:

I am more concerned about keeping the interior of my car comfortable – temperature-wise-speaking. Therefore if the above is correct then I should focus my efforts on applying Koolmat to the surfaces of the interior on my Jag. And – based on personal experience and comments from the board – my efforts ought to be focused on the transmission tunnel, both vertical and horizontal surfaces.


Ginger, 1971 SIII 2+2, 1966 SI OTS
Central Florida, United States
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In reply to a message from smallguy sent Sat 22 Apr 2006:

I actually did the same and I think the future owner of our cars
will thank us for that. I’m doing a ‘‘rolling’’ restauration and I
think in an area as the footwells, which are still original in my
case but a bit bumpy from previous owners jacking attempts, the
most important thing to do is to preserve the structure for the
long run. Hammerite will do that very well and as you said, will
not be visible.

Naturally, I don’t have a ‘‘baby-smooth’’ surface as if I had done a
complete ‘‘frame-off’’ restauration where the body shell has been
bead-blasted and new floors welded in. So, it might not be so easy
to attach the Dynamat and maybe I will first opt to just do the
sills, transmission tunnel and bulkheads but leave the floor. I can
always do those in a later stage.

Best regards, Christoph–
The original message included these comments:

I painted my floors first with Hammerite. The next owner will
either love me or hate me forever for doing this. It is hidden by
the koolmat, jute padding and carpet. This paint is so tough it
will outlast the car.


Christoph Widmer
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In reply to a message from mouton sent Sat 22 Apr 2006:

Jerry,

How easy is it to cut the Dynamat? The bulk 32x18’’ sheets seem to
be a lot more cost effective than the 10x10’’ pads and would have
less edges for water to seep in - but is it still easy enough to
install or cut to size?

Best regards, Christoph–
Christoph Widmer
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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In reply to a message from Christoph Widmer sent Sat 22 Apr 2006:

Christoph,

Yes, it cuts easily with a utility knife or scussors.

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC
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