Hi Gumnuts, I’d be curious in seeing some photos or more information on your overdrive fitment. It’s between this and the T5 route. I already have the KE synchronized box so I’m leaning toward the easiest install right now. Had been contemplating selling it and going with the T5/5speeds.com bellhousing.
They didn’t equip the E with them so you won’t find one.
You will however be able to fit a unit from a sedan.
Do yourself a favor, but the drive shaft and diff yoke at the same time, you can save the original driveshaft and have that one shortened.
Stay away from the compact units in the later sedans.
Understand, the regular ones are pretty much at their limit for horsepower with a heavily modded E!
Still haven’t made the swap. Still have other projects like the covered lights for the 72 and the 71 vert.
max
Hello there. I hope I can help, but more importantly remember how I did this. My car is an original 1967 2+2, factory R/H drive, I imported into Australia in 2009, arrived grey in colour and then discovered its original colour was Jaguar Dark Blue. My intention with putting the manual gearbox in the car, was to be able to keep it, or return it, to the most original condition it was when it left the factory. The short story is, the original motor has been stored along with the auto that came out of a machine numbers car. It has been replaced with a reconditioned 1975 XJ6 block, 1982 XJ6 Series 3 head (bigger valves and ported), stainless headers and exhaust, Fidanza alloy flywheel etc etc.
I decided to use the 67 MOD Jaguar box, as I have a 67 MOD box in a 1967 S Type done 134,000 miles and it is smooth and lovely to drive. I have a Tremac 6 speed very low kms box I could have used, but i had all the Jag parts, spare master and slave cylinders. It took me six months to eventually locate an unwanted E Type Peddle box in the UK, given I may need my original to go back in the car sometime and did not want to compromise it. I modified the floor and once again I have kept everything so I could return the car to original after a bit of weld and paint??? From what I can remember, I measured the distances, heights and levels carefully and then sacrificed a spare narrow driveshaft I had and had it shortened and balanced. The photos are not in any particular order, but if you blow them up, you may be able to see things in more detail. I recall having to do some mods or slight alterations at the rear mount also? You will also observe in the photos I have used a shortened and modified gear stick, with the o/d switch in the knob. The knob is from a Triumph Dolomite which is the same as the XJ6, but replaced the top which I purchased from Rimmer Bros in the UK and off an MGB and gave me the correct gear selection description on the cap. Finding an XJ6 gear knob was impossible for me at the time.
I have a friend who has recently purchased a 67 2+2 and he is going to fit the XJ6 box, which has the short O/D unit. My car has the original 2.88 diff, is probably pushing around 310 bhp, very free revving and absolutely wants to take off from 2000 to 2500 revs. It cruises effortlessly in overdrive at 1900 revs at 110 kph. I think the tyres are 225 x 65 x 15 Kumhos on 1/2 inch wider rims and I still have my bump stops on the car with no rub. Only regret is I should of used a competition clutch plate for the extra horsepower! I have no intention of racing or over reving it etc, but had some not to expensive fun putting the motor and gearbox together as an enjoyable cruiser. My wife and I have just returned from a week long national vintage car rally, where cars ranged from a 1908 Rover to a 1979 Mercedes Sport. Our Jaguar was one of the more modern, but much admired, with a number of admirers obviously with Jaguar knowledge of the car, picking up on the modified gear stick and obvious implications of an overdrive??? We were the only Jaguar represented, but we had so much fun with this little car over the 500 miles on the rally, absolute joy to drive and the fantastic people we were associated with over the week.
I hope I have helped in some way, feel free to ask more if you need more and I will do my best from memory? Measure, plan and keep checking! We have had no disappointments except the clutch.
Regards and all the best
It’s important to interlock the O/D so that it can’t be engaged in reverse. I’m not sure if this is on all Laycock O/Ds, but it is an issue on some. If you’re using a saloon box then you’ll have a switch in the cover for 4th, as well as for reverse, so wire the OD so that it can only be engaged when you’re in 4th. If you’re not using a saloon box or cover, then add a relay so that the OD cannot be energized in reverse.
I’m surprised the big OD went with so little work. The ‘Compact Type A’ needs no propshaft mods, as it’s the same length as the standard or auto boxes used on XJ or LWB E-types and therefore uses exactly the same propshaft.
Beautiful work Ole…
Thank you Pete.
Since this picture was taken, I’ve polished the SS exhaust 
Gumnuts and Ole, you both have nice setups- thanks for posting some photos. I’m jealous you could find all those parts. I live in the states and don’t think I’ll have as easy a time finding those parts available. I’m somewhat at a crossroads, I have a t5 ready to rebuild… only need the custom bell but I had last minute miss-givings while preparing to sell my restored (KE) 4 speed and wondering if I could still make it work with less effort/cost than rebuilding my T5. I like the first gear ratio better anyway but it seems I’d have to modify the box to accept an overdrive. I don’t know anything about overdrives except for a small amount I’ve read thus far. I had thought I could only use a Compact Type A but it looks like there maybe a bit more freedom with the 2+2? Do you know what overdrives are available in the states that would fit? It would be great to find a list that clearly spells out the overdrive models, sizes and what they are rated for… will have to dig a bit deeper and add to my mile long Jag bookmark tab.
Gumnuts, It’s hard to tell in the photos but did you use your original auto console and move the opening forward just a little? It also looks like you didn’t trim as much of tunnel as I’ve seen in other auto to manual conversions. The gear box tunnel cover looks different than other Series 1 E type covers- what did you use? I’m not familiar with the narrow drive shaft- is that different than the auto driveshaft originally fitted? I do have a local place that can do almost anything driveshaft related. Ole, what overdrive did you install?
-Ben
Hi Ben, mine is the compact type A. I had it rebuilt in the U.K., but there’s a guy in Connecticut that I used for the 4 speed rebuilt and seem to be quite good. He might be able to get something for you. I bought my gearbox with O/D, bell housing and the third pedal from Pete (in this thread) he may have one lying around. Mine is from an XJ with but with an original E cover. However, the XJ cover can be modified to put the gear lever in the correct position. For that you’ll need a transmission tunnel cover ( glass fiber from SNG) and a manual center console to make it look original. Oh - and a new radio console.
With everything, including rebuilt gearbox and O/D, I think I’m at $6k. $2k less without rebuilt 4sp & O/D.
Feel free to ask if you have any other questions.
Cheers … Ole
HI Ole,
Ahh, now you made me jealous! I wish I had an O/D in my V12 OTS just like I had in my ex-S1 2+2.
But I see you also left out the exhaust intermediate/connecting pipe, why? I am sure the factory put it there for a (good) reason. I was thinking of drilling and and plugging those pipes for being able to fit two lambdas for dynoing and doing some on-the-road finetuning, but didn’t get a “round tuit”. 
Cheers,
Pekka T.
Fin.
Hi Pekka,
When people say they are jealous, I feel good. It means I’ve done something right
The intermediate pipe was left out to see if I would get some kind of distinct 6 + 6 burble in the exhaust. Not so. I thought as you, the factory must have put it there for a reason, so it went back in, when the engine and gearbox went in again after gearbox rebuild and body paint.
I have considered the lambdas as well, but would tend towards four, to get reading on all four carbs, but in my case it’s just one of those ideas that probably never come to fruition.
BTW, being someone that I assume go for the original, I don’t think you’ll like what I’ve done to the rest of the car 
I’ll post some pictures when the car is ready (washed and polished).
Here’s a picture of the O/D button in the gear knob and control box:
Cheers … Ole
Hello Ole.
The relay looks expensive! Is the gearknob switch press to activate/deactivate? If so a “Hella” head lamp dip relay will do the job.
Just use either head or dip connection.
E type top cover will have a blanking plug where the top gear switch,
same as the reverse switch, screws in
You can wire the reverse switch to drop out the relay that is switched on when engaged. Does it for you automatically.
I once engaged reverse with the OD on, I had no issue, but was a worry.
MR Esposito, is the OD expert, down the road from me, he’s in Essex, Connecticut last I knew.
I believe his first name is John and he did my 4 speed. Reasonable and very knowledgeable.
I’ll have to look up my receipts to tell you the prices. My contraption will also disengage the O/D when you change gear to for instance 3rd. AND not engage the O/D until you are in 4th and press the button in the gear knob again.
Maybe the relay you mention will do the same, I just didn’t find it when researching it 3 years ago.
The seat belt warning light is now used as the 1:1.2 indicator !
Cheers… Ole
Hi Ole,
Cool, looks very well done. Yes, the factory had the feed to power the O/D solenoid (like in my XJ6C, #2J50041DN) come via the switch on top of the gearbox, so the O/D will only operate while in top gear. No relay though, I used the relay in my ex-S1 2+2 that used to be connected to the “inhibitor switch” and thus it needed almost no rewiring at all, just a bit to change that relay to operate the O/D.
The gear knob with the button looks very much like the one in a Ferrari 456 GTA.
Cheers,
Pekka T. - 1S20183
Fin.
Hello Pekka
The “Hella” dip/head relay is for a press or flick switch. A positive ON and OFF
switch does not require a relay. Of course, if the supply to the soleniod is not fused,fit a inline fuse.
SS Data. Yes was DHC. Long story, bill of sale stated parts not to be rebuilt
as DHC, Not a problem as my project was a 100.
A fuse is essential for the overdrive solenoid. Check my previous posts for reasons why.
I also have lambdas sensors in place of the crossover pipe fitting. I also have from time to time also fitted them at the downpipes, although it is marginal on overheating the sensors this close to the engine.
kind regards
Marek
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