The LH side of my '64 FHC sits lower than the RH side. I know that this is not uncommon. Wait for it…here comes the stupid question of the day: How do I determine whether it is the LH torsion bar or the LH rear shock springs that are causing the unevenness? The last time I had the engine out, I set the torsion bars to the factory specs, although it is possible that the LH torsion bar is fatigued. Someone must have come up with a way to determine which end of the car, or both ends, that is causing the problem?
Larry
Agoura Hills, Ca
61 OTS 64 FHC 3.8______________________________________________________
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In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:
Larry : I suggest you check first the front ride height with the
car on level ground by measuring the height of the centres of the
front wishbone pivot ( the ones with the big castellated nuts) .
This should be 8.5 to 9 inches ( i.e. 8.75 + or - 0.25). If these
are near to this and/or equal on the two sides, then it points to
the rear being the problem–
christopher storey
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In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:
Larry, probally the best way to proceed would be to eliminate the
rear springs as the source of the problem. With the car up on
stands, switch the left side spring/shock assmblies with the right
sides. This test isn’t possible for the T-bars as left & right bars
aren’t interchangeable. Also when you have the springs/shocks out
you can inspect same for leaks, bad rubber bushings etc.
Considering how much work it is to change the T-bar setting, I
would rule out other causes first. Do let us know what you find out.–
The original message included these comments:
The LH side of my '64 FHC sits lower than the RH side. I know that this is not uncommon. Wait for it…here comes the stupid question of the day: How do I determine whether it is the LH torsion bar or the LH rear shock springs that are causing the unevenness? The last time I had the engine out, I set the torsion bars to the factory specs, although it is possible that the LH torsion bar is fatigued. Someone must have come up with a way to determine which end of the car, or both ends, that is causing the problem?
–
Kim Duleff S2 OTS BRG Colorado, USA
Denver Colorado, United States
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Thanks Kim and Christopher. I have not yet done the measurements stated in the Manual, but it appears to me that the car sits low on both the front and rear LH side. My guess is that the ride height being off on either end of the car could effect both the front and rear of the car. If that is the case, I’m not sure how the measurements will help determine the solution. I had thought about reversing the rear shocks & springs from one side to the other as was suggested, but I hate to just start changing things hoping to stumble upon the solution. Unfortunately it is difficult to adjust the ride height on on both ends of the car and I would prefer to get it right the first time, as I really hate do overs.
Larry
Agoura Hills, Ca
61 OTS 64 FHC 3.8----- Original Message ----
From: christopher storey cstoreyqc@aol.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Mon, March 15, 2010 12:46:11 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] LH Sitting Low
In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:
Larry : I suggest you check first the front ride height with the
car on level ground by measuring the height of the centres of the
front wishbone pivot ( the ones with the big castellated nuts) .
This should be 8.5 to 9 inches ( i.e. 8.75 + or - 0.25). If these
are near to this and/or equal on the two sides, then it points to
the rear being the problem
christopher storey
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:
I think your right in thinking the front and rear will
affect each other. I believe that creating three point
support by jacking one end at an accurately centered point
would isolate the cause to the appropriate end, certainly
easier than removing and switching components.–
The original message included these comments:
Thanks Kim and Christopher. I have not yet done the measurements stated in the Manual, but it appears to me that the car sits low on both the front and rear LH side. My guess is that the ride height being off on either end of the car could effect both the front and rear of the car. If that is the case, I’m not sure how the measurements will help determine the solution. I had thought about reversing the rear shocks & springs from one side to the other as was suggested, but I hate to just start changing things hoping to stumble upon the solution. Unfortunately it is difficult to adjust the ride height on on both ends of the car and I would prefer to get it right the first time, as I really hate do overs.
–
Gary Brinker - 1E11523 66 OTS Mid Restoration - Maumee, Ohio
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In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:
Hey Larry,
A couple of comments / suggestions: 1- Ensure all 4 tires
pressures are deadnuts the same. Also, make sure all 4
tires are the same size. 2- Place the car on a level
surface. In particular, if one of the 4 corners is low with
respect to the others, that can also throw you off. One of
those laser levels might be helpful here. I build up a
level surface at the 4 tire footprints in my garage starting
with 1/4’’ plywood and then shoot for 1/8’’ accuracy using
sheetmetal or formica. 3- I assume you have LHD. My
recent experiments suggest that driver plus gas will cause
the LH side to sag 1/4’’ to 3/8’’ on the left hand side just
due to these weights. A full tank of gas weighs about 100
pounds. Driver weight will vary. Setting the torsion bars
to equal settings really works better on RHD cars. 4- Since
it is easy, try jacking up the front, under the castellated
nut, to obtain a level front and see if the back follows or
not. The car is not particularly torsionally rigid so for
small displacements I expect the front and the rear can be
tackled independently. 5- And the engineer in me says ‘‘Give
us numbers, man!’’ 
Distance from castellated nut to the
ground LF and RF. Distance from the body seam under the
rear bumpers in the back.–
Harvey Ferris 67 2+2, 63 FHC, 67 2+2 www.newhillgarage.com
New Hill, NC, United States
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Hi Harvey. Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, it is LHD. The location of the battery must effect the imbalance also. How does one go about measuring from the seam under the rear bumpers to the ground with the bumpers mounted? Is there another reference point that I can use in the rear?
Larry
Agoura Hills, Ca
61 OTS 64 FHC 3.8----- Original Message ----
From: Harvey Ferris hdferris@bellsouth.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Mon, March 15, 2010 2:53:00 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] LH Sitting Low
In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:
Hey Larry,
A couple of comments / suggestions: 1- Ensure all 4 tires
pressures are deadnuts the same. Also, make sure all 4
tires are the same size. 2- Place the car on a level
surface. In particular, if one of the 4 corners is low with
respect to the others, that can also throw you off. One of
those laser levels might be helpful here. I build up a
level surface at the 4 tire footprints in my garage starting
with 1/4’’ plywood and then shoot for 1/8’’ accuracy using
sheetmetal or formica. 3- I assume you have LHD. My
recent experiments suggest that driver plus gas will cause
the LH side to sag 1/4’’ to 3/8’’ on the left hand side just
due to these weights. A full tank of gas weighs about 100
pounds. Driver weight will vary. Setting the torsion bars
to equal settings really works better on RHD cars. 4- Since
it is easy, try jacking up the front, under the castellated
nut, to obtain a level front and see if the back follows or
not. The car is not particularly torsionally rigid so for
small displacements I expect the front and the rear can be
tackled independently. 5- And the engineer in me says ‘‘Give
us numbers, man!’’ 
Distance from castellated nut to the
ground LF and RF. Distance from the body seam under the
rear bumpers in the back.
Harvey Ferris 67 2+2, 63 FHC, 67 2+2 www.newhillgarage.com
New Hill, NC, United States
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In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:
Larry, I was a little too brief in that explanation. On my
car, the bumpers are removed and the seam is a great place
to measure from. I just worry that the bumpers may
themselves be off a little and affect your measurements.
The top of the rear wheel wells would seem to be another
option. Also, if you need to build up some leveling pads,
then there is the problem of what to measure down to, away
from the pads. Assuming your garage floor is reasonable
level and flat, I would just measure down from the wheel
wells to the floor on both sides. At this point the side to
side difference is more important than the actual numbers.
I’m trying to get a feel as to if you are dramatically out
or not. I guess if you can see it, then it’s dramatic
enough that its going to bother you from now on 
Yes battery, driver, gas tank, all on the same side of a LHD
car will definitely all have their adverse effect.
I have just reset my torsion bars for the 3rd time, trying
to get the front ride height right. I’m pretty sick of
torsion bars right now but I’m also getting good at
adjusting them!
What we need is one of those points in the rear window like
on a NASCAR where they just insert a crank and give it a few
turns to jack up one side of the car :)–
Harvey Ferris 67 2+2, 63 FHC, 67 2+2 www.newhillgarage.com
New Hill, NC, United States
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Hi Harvey, Thanks again for your assistance. I have checked the tire pressure and installed the new tires and rims on the front. As I was lying on the garage floor under the rear of the car (my favorite position) I noticed that the LH lower trailing bar angle was more horizontal than the RH side bar. I was able to insert a tape measure behind the LH & RH rear bumpers to the seam to confirm. This leads me to believe that the LH shock springs are sagging as there didn’t appear to be any damage to explain the difference. My plan is to insert spring spacer(s) to raise the LH bar to the same height as the RH side and see what that does to the overall balance. It appears that a new set of springs are in my future. Can’t say why the springs on the LH side seem to be sagging, but parts of my body are sagging also. Perhaps we are aging along with our cars? I know my joints are rusting as we speak.
Larry
Agoura Hills, Ca
61 OTS 64 FHC 3.8----- Original Message ----
From: Harvey Ferris hdferris@bellsouth.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Mon, March 15, 2010 6:07:13 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] LH Sitting Low
In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:
Larry, I was a little too brief in that explanation. On my
car, the bumpers are removed and the seam is a great place
to measure from. I just worry that the bumpers may
themselves be off a little and affect your measurements.
The top of the rear wheel wells would seem to be another
option. Also, if you need to build up some leveling pads,
then there is the problem of what to measure down to, away
from the pads. Assuming your garage floor is reasonable
level and flat, I would just measure down from the wheel
wells to the floor on both sides. At this point the side to
side difference is more important than the actual numbers.
I’m trying to get a feel as to if you are dramatically out
or not. I guess if you can see it, then it’s dramatic
enough that its going to bother you from now on 
Yes battery, driver, gas tank, all on the same side of a LHD
car will definitely all have their adverse effect.
I have just reset my torsion bars for the 3rd time, trying
to get the front ride height right. I’m pretty sick of
torsion bars right now but I’m also getting good at
adjusting them!
What we need is one of those points in the rear window like
on a NASCAR where they just insert a crank and give it a few
turns to jack up one side of the car
Harvey Ferris 67 2+2, 63 FHC, 67 2+2 www.newhillgarage.com
New Hill, NC, United States
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