In reply to a message from N�ck sent Sun 20 Apr 2014:
I recently replaced all of the door seals on my '67 coupe and had
the usual problems with fitment. I searched the archives here and
posted some requests for help - and several responded with some
very helpful hints.
Granted, my car is a coupe, but I’m confused by your photos and
have to wonder if you have mixed up the supplier names in your
pictures. I ordered my seals from Welsh(a complete kit)and one A
post seal from SNGB (to see if it was different). But they were
identical - even had the same hand written numbers on them, so they
were made by the same molder or extruder. As you can see in my
pictures, the Welsh and SNGB parts are black, while the other brand
in your photos is a light grey color.
Any way, I have to say this was not a fun job - in fact it is the
least favorite of all things I’ve ever had to do on my car. But
the good news is the seals are good - they do work and work very
well once they are installed correctly. I went though the usual
struggle on the passenger side. I installed the seals and the door
just would not close. The window frame was bending out, and then if
I did get the door closed by slamming it with all my might, I could
not pull it open. So off came the newly installed seals and I had
to reclean the channels of all the glue.
To fix the problem with the A post seal, I used some super glue and
glued the one sealing flap down as shown in my first picture.
This ‘‘L’’ shape is the way the seal will sit in place with the
window frame pushing it down. The trouble is the force required to
push the rubber down to this shape along the full length of the
seal is just too great making it too hard to close the door. With
the flap glued to the base of the seal (glued together as shown),
the seal was then bonded to the car with Weldwood contact cement
and the door closed just fine. No more trying to bend the window
frame out.
Next came the B post fitment. You have the same problem here as the
seals just seem to be too thick. When I bonded the first one in,
the seal surface was flush or even above the surface of the rear
wing and the door would not easily close. So off it came, again
clean up all the glue and try again. But this time after sticking
the seal in place at the top, I held it down with one hand and
stretched the seal and pushed it in place with the other hand. As
you can see, when done I wound up cutting off about a foot of
excess seal. But now the seal surface is slightly below the
surface of the rear wing and door closes easily. When you stretch
the rubber, the cross-section gets smaller and the seal then fits
perfectly.
The A post seal from the base of the windshield to the bottom of
door fit without any issues. But you do have to take the door off
as there is no way to get at this section with the door in place.
And the bottom seal placed in the channel on the sills fit fine.
After learing what to do on the passenger side, my driver’s side
install went smoothly.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1398121462--
The original message included these comments:
Ken Hiebert (aka ‘‘6 speed’’) and I made arrangements to meet and
compare door seals provided by Martin MacGregor vs SNGB. This is a
shot of the A-post seal profiles at the bottom end, SNGB seal on
the left:
http://tinyurl.com/llqbxkv
A-post seal profiles at the top end, SNGB on the right:
http://tinyurl.com/km7kkub
and B-post profiles, SNGB on the right:
http://tinyurl.com/lov84zo
rubber stiffness is about the same but as seen in the photos the
SNGB seals are heavier. FWIW.
–
MAC -1
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