[E-Type] Need help guys with carb tuning!

I got my 1967 OTS running finally and was using the manual to set
the carbs. I warmed the car up, turned the slow running screws in
then backed them out 2 turns and started the car. The car idled
roughly at 500 RPM. I turned the mixture adjusting screws and did
not notice any change in the RPM’s. I took the car for a drive and
it does not seem to have near the power it had last year when I put
it away. last year I installed a Pertronix ignition, new rotor, cap
wires and plugs. The car had sat for almost 30 years without fuel
in the carbs. Could I be having problems with the diaphrams split?
I do not notice any leaking gas. The car ran beautifully when I
stored it for the winter. Am I cursed? I tried to balance the carbs
with a hose and they all sounded the same.–
1967 Series 1Roadster
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

Dollar to a donut the diaphragms need replacing…amazed
they work at all, if that old.–
The original message included these comments:

wires and plugs. The car had sat for almost 30 years without fuel
in the carbs. Could I be having problems with the diaphrams split?


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

Thanks Paul, I was thinking that was the problem, but the car ran
fine last year (probably only put 50 miles on it) after I got it
running, and there don’t appear to be any leaks under the carbs.
How hard is it to change the diaphrams?–
1967 Series 1Roadster
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

MMm…not terribly hard, beyond pulling the carbs off. Make
sure to clean/lube the pass-thru rod on the sides of the
carbs, for the choke and high idle systems…they can get
sticky. Keep the pistons/bells together in their pairs.

Are you also sure the shaft seals/bushings are good? Those
being worn/leaky can cause you grief. Remember, split/rotted
diaphragms don’t necessarily announce themselves by external
leaking.

If I had a shekel for everything that ran/worked/operated
fine when I put it away, only to find it completely
useless upon my return…I’d be RICH!!

:=/–
The original message included these comments:

Thanks Paul, I was thinking that was the problem, but the car ran
fine last year (probably only put 50 miles on it) after I got it
running, and there don’t appear to be any leaks under the carbs.
How hard is it to change the diaphrams?


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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Gary, My '62 FHC was in storage for a little over 20 years and when I tried to start it after changing all the fluids, etc. (just for laughs) the gas ran through the carb diaphragms like they were sieves. When I stripped the HD8’s down the diaphragms didn’t crack, they shattered into a thousand pieces. After 30 yrs in storage, you will have to go through everything that has fluids or seals in them. Might as well do it sooner, reather than alongside the road. There are a lot of people (probably not on this list) that are of the opinion that time stands still for a vehicle in storage. IT AIN’T SO!
Larry— On Wed, 4/29/09, Gary67XKE davidsg@nationwide.com wrote:

From: Gary67XKE davidsg@nationwide.com
Subject: [E-Type] Need help guys with carb tuning!
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Date: Wednesday, April 29, 2009, 10:44 AM
I got my 1967 OTS running finally and was using the manual
to set
the carbs. I warmed the car up, turned the slow running
screws in
then backed them out 2 turns and started the car. The car
idled
roughly at 500 RPM. I turned the mixture adjusting screws
and did
not notice any change in the RPM’s. I took the car for
a drive and
it does not seem to have near the power it had last year
when I put
it away. last year I installed a Pertronix ignition, new
rotor, cap
wires and plugs. The car had sat for almost 30 years
without fuel
in the carbs. Could I be having problems with the diaphrams
split?
I do not notice any leaking gas. The car ran beautifully
when I
stored it for the winter. Am I cursed? I tried to balance
the carbs
with a hose and they all sounded the same.

1967 Series 1Roadster
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

Gary, I’m in the process of doing my carbs, one is leaking at
the intake port. I found a web site that is very
helpful.(http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI
/CarbsI.htm) for stromberg carbs. Good luck Ben–
Benny 1968 4.2 S11/2 OTS
Old Bridge NJ, United States
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In reply to a message from JOHN KOHLER sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

Thanks, guys, for your help. The engine was turned over by the
starter every 3 months so it seems fine. Before I tried to start
it, I changed ALL of the hoses, vacuum lines, brake lines, master
cylinders and had all of the calipers brass lined by White Post and
put all new fluids in the car. Amazingly, it started right up and
ran fine, once it was warmed up. Still leaks oil from the oil
filter housing after many hours of work trying to get it to stop. I
will take the carbs off and put new diaphrams in them. What do you
think of having them professionally rebuilt? I don’t think there is
any problem with the shafts not sealing.–
The original message included these comments:

Gary, My '62 FHC was in storage for a little over 20 years and when I tried to start it after changing all the fluids, etc. (just for laughs) the gas ran through the carb diaphragms like they were sieves. When I stripped the HD8’s down the diaphragms didn’t crack, they shattered into a thousand pieces. After 30 yrs in storage, you will have to go through everything that has fluids or seals in them. Might as well do it sooner, reather than alongside the road. There are a lot of people (probably not on this list) that are of the opinion that time stands still for a vehicle in storage. IT AIN’T SO!
Larry

Subject: [E-Type] Need help guys with carb tuning!
I got my 1967 OTS running finally and was using the manual
to set
the carbs. I warmed the car up, turned the slow running
screws in
then backed them out 2 turns and started the car. The car
idled
roughly at 500 RPM. I turned the mixture adjusting screws
and did


1967 Series 1Roadster
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

Gary,
I don’t know what kind of carbs you have. My XJ6 had the same
symptom as you’re noting, and it was the advance weights in
the distributor had frozen up. That also happened very
suddenly.
However,if its been sitting that long, a lot of stuff could
be suspect.–
The original message included these comments:

I got my 1967 OTS running finally and was using the manual to set
the carbs. I warmed the car up, turned the slow running screws in
then backed them out 2 turns and started the car. The car idled
roughly at 500 RPM. I turned the mixture adjusting screws and did
not notice any change in the RPM’s. I took the car for a drive and
it away. last year I installed a Pertronix ignition, new rotor, cap
wires and plugs. The car had sat for almost 30 years without fuel
in the carbs. Could I be having problems with the diaphrams split?
I do not notice any leaking gas. The car ran beautifully when I
stored it for the winter. Am I cursed? I tried to balance the carbs
with a hose and they all sounded the same.


Mike Moore 63 O2S
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In reply to a message from michaelmoore sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

Hi Mike, I don’t think that is the problem as turning the mixture
adjustment screws does nothing. I will chek that, though. Thanks.–
The original message included these comments:

Gary,
I don’t know what kind of carbs you have. My XJ6 had the same
symptom as you’re noting, and it was the advance weights in
the distributor had frozen up. That also happened very
suddenly.
However,if its been sitting that long, a lot of stuff could
be suspect.


1967 Series 1Roadster
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

If the diaphragms are split or perforated I would guess they would
be dripping gas so you would know it. On the other hand, if they
are hardening up (as mine were) you may not know it.

You can take the bells off and remove the pistons and look at the
jets to see if they move up and down freely when someone moves the
choke lever. That may show if they are impaired somehow.

If you loosen the mixture screw and nothing happens as you
indicated, look to make sure that the jets are moving up as they
should. If the jets are frozen in place due to hardened diaphragms,
the mixture adjustment arm with the screw in it should get loose
and sloppy.

Truthfully, if they haven’t been rebuilt in 30+ years, its probably
time =:P–
The original message included these comments:

Hi Mike, I don’t think that is the problem as turning the mixture
adjustment screws does nothing. I will chek that, though. Thanks.


Doug, http://tinyurl.com/ysurzd
68 E-Type OTS, United States
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

Gary,

When I started my car up last year after about 20 months of no use
I had the same experience of lack of power. Turned out the needle
valve in the center carb was stuck. When I removed it and cleaned
it off everything returned to normal. The final step that made the
difference, after using carb cleaner, etc., both on the needle
valve and its housing, was to rub it vigorously in each of its four
sided on my jeans to polish it. Prior to that, even with the
cleaning, it was still sticking.

HTH,
Warren Hansen
70 FHC Silver Bolide–
The original message included these comments:

roughly at 500 RPM. I turned the mixture adjusting screws and did
not notice any change in the RPM’s. I took the car for a drive and
it does not seem to have near the power it had last year when I put
it away. last year I installed a Pertronix ignition, new rotor, cap


NJAGUY
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

Gary,

If the carbs sat for 30 years, it’s probably a good idea to pull
them and inspect/rebuild, as others have suggested. In the
meantime, you might try enriching the mixture. In an otherwise
healthy engine, just because you didn’t notice a change in idle
when you turned the mixture adjustments screws, that doesn’t
necessarily mean you didn’t affect performance. It doesn’t take
much turning to get you lean enough to noticeably reduce power on
acceleration.

Good luck.

Tom–
Tom Demergian (Madison, Wisconsin USA) 1962 FHC, 1949 MG TC
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In reply to a message from TomDemergian sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

I think you guys have pinpointed it to the diaphrams. I
started to take the carbs off tonight. When I pulled the
floats off there was no gas in the float bowls. Turning the
mixture screws out the levers got very loose. I’ll bet the
diaphragms are hardened. I talked to Joe Curto and that is
what he thought also. Will order rebuild kits from him. I
sure hope that is the problem. Thanks.–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:
Gary,
If the carbs sat for 30 years, it’s probably a good idea to pull
them and inspect/rebuild, as others have suggested. In the
meantime, you might try enriching the mixture. In an otherwise
healthy engine, just because you didn’t notice a change in idle
when you turned the mixture adjustments screws, that doesn’t
necessarily mean you didn’t affect performance. It doesn’t take
much turning to get you lean enough to noticeably reduce power on
acceleration.
Good luck.


1967 Series 1Roadster
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

If there’s no fuel in the bowls, then either your pump is not
working, the lines/filters are clogged, or your float valves are
stuck shut.–
The original message included these comments:

I think you guys have pinpointed it to the diaphrams. I
started to take the carbs off tonight. When I pulled the
floats off there was no gas in the float bowls. Turning the
mixture screws out the levers got very loose. I’ll bet the
diaphragms are hardened. I talked to Joe Curto and that is
what he thought also. Will order rebuild kits from him. I
sure hope that is the problem. Thanks.

1967 Series 1Roadster


Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Wed 29 Apr 2009:

Hi Ray, I looked at the carbs this morning and the front
carb fuel bowl has gas, the rear and middle carb bowls are
almost dry as the floats are bottomed out. I put new lines,
new fuel pump and new glass bowl filter in last year. Your
right, something is causing the fuel not to flow. The
filters in the carbs look pretty clean, but I will totally
clean them. I also will clean out the needle valves. I still
am going to change the diaphrams. Can that be done without
the carbs being taken off? The carbs look like they are in
great shape with no evidence of varnish deposits. The
engine, transmission and rear end were all rebuilt by a
jaguar racing company in Cleveland back in 1976 and the car
was only driven 500 miles since then. Would I be wise to
totally rebuild the carbs? I don’t have a lot of time, but
if it has to be done, I need to do it. Thanks again for your
help. Gary–
The original message included these comments:

If there’s no fuel in the bowls, then either your pump is not
working, the lines/filters are clogged, or your float valves are
stuck shut.

1967 Series 1Roadster
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States


1967 Series 1Roadster
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Thu 30 Apr 2009:

Theoretically, yes; practically, no. Just remove’em, clean properly
and you’ll be a LOT less PO’ed!

:):):)–
The original message included these comments:

clean them. I also will clean out the needle valves. I still
am going to change the diaphrams. Can that be done without
the carbs being taken off? The carbs look like they are in
great shape with no evidence of varnish deposits. The


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Thu 30 Apr 2009:

Has to be a story in there - why would someone go to all that work
and then not drive the car - or was it purely for racing?–
The original message included these comments:

engine, transmission and rear end were all rebuilt by a
jaguar racing company in Cleveland back in 1976 and the car
was only driven 500 miles since then. Would I be wise to


Mark F. Bean '72 SIII OTS (refurbishing firewall forward)
Valley Forge, PA, United States
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In reply to a message from beanmf sent Thu 30 Apr 2009:

Mark, you are right, there is a story behind the car. I
bought the car from my wife’s cousin. He put approx. 500
miles on the car after the rebuilds then decided to to make
a show car out of it and started to tear it down. He lost
interest and got into airplanes and the car sat. He had it
stored in the basement of one of the houses he owned and did
turn the motor over every quarter with the battery. He sold
the house 3 years ago and I bought the car. It has some
rust, but a lot of it is in remarkable condition. The front
end and underneath were redone. I bought a new interior to
install and have the body parts, now to get the money to
have the body work and painting done.–
1967 Series 1Roadster
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In reply to a message from Gary67XKE sent Thu 30 Apr 2009:

Mine sat for about 10 years.

Doing the rebuild yourself is actually quite easy as long as you
don’t mess with the needle. I use a lot of carb cleaner!

You probably have bad floats in those two that have no gas. I have
a dual carb on my 68, one had gas, other was dry (couple years
after getting it running again). Guess what? Dry one had a bad
float.

While you are there, make sure the butterfly valves aren’t sticking
at all. I had to pull mine apart a couple of times after a long
winter when they started sticking.–
The original message included these comments:

carb fuel bowl has gas, the rear and middle carb bowls are
almost dry as the floats are bottomed out. I put new lines,


Craig Snyder // 1968 S1.5 OTS
Ashburn, VA, United States
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In reply to a message from Craig Snyder sent Thu 30 Apr 2009:

Thanks Craig, I pulled the carbs off tonight and took the
jet and diaphram out of all three. One of the carbs had a
small crack in the diaphram. The other diaphrams seemed kind
of stiff, but not too bad. I will test the floats to see if
they are OK. I will get a rebuild kit for the carbs. The
spring under the diaphram on the front carb is smaller than
the other two. It is only about 2/3 the diameter of the
other two. Any tricks on rebuilding the carbs?–
The original message included these comments:

Mine sat for about 10 years.
Doing the rebuild yourself is actually quite easy as long as you
don’t mess with the needle. I use a lot of carb cleaner!
You probably have bad floats in those two that have no gas. I have
a dual carb on my 68, one had gas, other was dry (couple years
after getting it running again). Guess what? Dry one had a bad
float.
While you are there, make sure the butterfly valves aren’t sticking
winter when they started sticking.

carb fuel bowl has gas, the rear and middle carb bowls are
almost dry as the floats are bottomed out. I put new lines,


1967 Series 1Roadster
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