[E-Type] No longer a virgin

I dropped the IRS this weekend. What a pain. The radius arms were
a real F-ing hassel. The forum was an invaluable source of info
and inspiration. Thank you all, I couldn’t or wouldn’t have done
it without you.
Saskatoon Matt
70 OTS–
mbsherry
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In reply to a message from mbsherry sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:

Right next to fuel tank removal, I found the IRS is one of
those ‘‘Ya only want to do it once’’ jobs that’s so frustrating. Make
sure you fix everything on or nearby before you put the assembly
back in.

Repeat Everything! May your IRS rubber mounts line up better than
mine!

Dave–
1969 BRG OTS
Skaneateles, NY, United States
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In reply to a message from David Ahlers sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:

…What David meant to say is, have a large prybar to help
align your rubber mounts and live with slightly scratched
paint… :wink:

Lester–
http://tinyurl.com/mqlgly '66 4.2 FHC
Louisiana, United States
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In reply to a message from saabguy sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:

A hand operated cable winch, some lengths of chain & a Port a Power
made putting mine back in easy. Some long pointey drifts made from
5/16’’ and 1/4’’ bolts also.–
The original message included these comments:

…What David meant to say is, have a large prybar to help
align your rubber mounts and live with slightly scratched
paint… :wink:


Kim Duleff S2 OTS BRG Colorado, USA
Denver Colorado, United States
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In reply to a message from Kim Duleff sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:

Yeah the porta-power & pry bars, chain, are for the fuel tank.
The IRS is tougher yet…
D–
1969 BRG OTS
Skaneateles, NY, United States
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In reply to a message from mbsherry sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:

I hate to be the dissenting opinion but I’ve had mine out
several times and never found it to be difficult. I use two
jacks and a pile of large wooden blocks to both raise and
lower it. One side gets steadied with the blocks while the
other side gets raised/lowered a few cm. It’s tedious
moving from side to side but goes smoothly. I’ve found
that one should attach the forward mounts to the body and
the rearward ones to the carrier…or the other way round
(don’t remember) and they slip right in. I have the
original shims that where installed at the factory and make
darned sure they go back where they came from. Maybe I’m
just holding my tongue the right way?–
1968 Series 1 1/2 OTS
Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
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In reply to a message from Bent Bob sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:

If you believe the Service Manual (and I tend to), the front pair
of mounts should be attached to the IRS cradle, and the rear pair
should be attached to the body when you offer the IRS up to the
body. As I’ve yet to re-attach mine yet, I can’t vouch for this,
but I’m sure that I’ve read other comments in the archives that say
if you do it this way it’s much easier than the alternatives.

Hope this helps,
-David–
The original message included these comments:

moving from side to side but goes smoothly. I’ve found
that one should attach the forward mounts to the body and
the rearward ones to the carrier…or the other way round
(don’t remember) and they slip right in. I have the


davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
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In reply to a message from davidxk sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:

Keeping all the mounts loose is also key to easy installation.
It’s not that hard, and the IRS is just kinda large and clunky.

However, getting all the frozen parts off and out? That su u u u
ucks!–
The original message included these comments:

If you believe the Service Manual (and I tend to), the front pair
of mounts should be attached to the IRS cradle, and the rear pair
should be attached to the body when you offer the IRS up to the
body. As I’ve yet to re-attach mine yet, I can’t vouch for this,
but I’m sure that I’ve read other comments in the archives that say
if you do it this way it’s much easier than the alternatives.


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from mbsherry sent Mon 15 Mar 2010:

Pulling the IRS does require some finess and I have done mine twice
in 20 years. After fighting to free up rusted bolts and the
separate the front end of the radius arms from the tapered cone, I
cleaned everything up and coated it generously with never-seize.

The never-seize payed huge dividends when it came to do it 10 years
later,… undo the bolt sharp rap with a ball pien hammer and it
was free. Brian my/type–
mytype
Kelowna, B.C., Canada
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