[E-Type] Oil Filter Housing - S3 XJ6

In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Thu 3 May 2012:

Is this the correct part? Does this housing have the cooler
bypass already?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-FILTER-HOUSING-90-94-XJ6-JAGUAR-/190199248704?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c48c23740&vxp=mtr--
The original message included these comments:

John, they come up from time to time on eBay. I bought one for small $ there.
Larry


Craig Gilbert - 1968 E-Type FHC
Birmingham, AL, United States
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Craig,
No, at least that’s not the one I used, it is a later model. You need the XJ S1

  • 3 filter head. They come in two types, one has the oil cooler hose inlet &
    outlet blocked off and on the other model they are left open. I used the one
    with the blocked off oil cooler outlets, as I am not running an oil cooler.
    Hooking up the OP relief line to the sump fitting is the only problem and that
    has been addressed in the Archives.
    Larry----- Original Message ----
    From: golfnut324 caggilbert@gmail.com
    To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
    Sent: Thu, May 3, 2012 9:36:01 AM
    Subject: Re: [E-Type] Oil Filter Housing - S3 XJ6

In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Thu 3 May 2012:

Is this the correct part? Does this housing have the cooler
bypass already?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-FILTER-HOUSING-90-94-XJ6-JAGUAR-/190199248704?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c48c23740&vxp=mtr


The original message included these comments:

John, they come up from time to time on eBay. I bought one for small $ there.
Larry


Craig Gilbert - 1968 E-Type FHC
Birmingham, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from golfnut324 sent Thu 3 May 2012:

No, I don’t think so.–
The original message included these comments:

Is this the correct part? Does this housing have the cooler
bypass already?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-FILTER-HOUSING-90-94-XJ6-JAGUAR-/190199248704?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c48c23740&vxp=mtr


John Walker, No E-Type at present
La Porte, Tex, United States
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In reply to a message from Larry Kohler sent Thu 3 May 2012:

A great source for used XJ parts is David Boger. He is a
great source for parts as well as advice. Ask anyone on the
XJ list.

[www.everydayxj.com]–
The original message included these comments:

John, they come up from time to time on eBay. I bought one for small $ there.


Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
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In reply to a message from Robert Wilkinson sent Thu 3 May 2012:

Yp, that was going to be my suggestion.

Cold, sinusitis. hay fever or whatever. Keeping me in today.
I can see the irritants floating in the air out there. daughter
brought me a bottle of what she thought was tomatoe juice. Naah, it
seem to be vegetable juice. probably a V8 knockoff. Kinda bland.
so, I spiked it with salt pepper and tabasco. Ooops, bit heav on
the Tabasco, but much better. I guess if Ispiked it with vodka, I’d
have a bloody mary. No, I don’t think I will. Benedry helps, but, I
nod off!!

Carl–
The original message included these comments:

A great source for used XJ parts is David Boger. He is a
great source for parts as well as advice. Ask anyone on the
XJ list.


Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
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In reply to a message from cadjag sent Thu 3 May 2012:

Thanks to all the help I think I’m homing in on the source.
But I cannot find the archived threads detailing the following:

  1. Exactly how to block off the oil cooler ports.
  2. How to modify the oil bypass port to send to the oil pan.
  3. Is the oil pressure sender port the same size and thread?
  4. Any gasket issues or just the standard e-type gasket?

Any answers or links to the threads would be appreciated.

Thanks again,–
The original message included these comments:

A great source for used XJ parts is David Boger. He is a
great source for parts as well as advice. Ask anyone on the
XJ list.


Craig Gilbert - 1968 E-Type FHC
Birmingham, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from golfnut324 sent Thu 3 May 2012:

I’ve written about this on the XJ list; I’ll summarize here:

  1. There are spin-on filter blocks without cooler ports on
    some XJs. If you have the ports, fit an o-ring or round
    piece of gasket material, followed by a 3/4 inch copper
    water pipe cap (the kind that solders on) in each port. The
    top of the cap forms a perfect seal, and the clamp designed
    to clamp in the hoses will clamp in the two pipe caps
    perfectly. Note that you should remove the bypass valve
    within the filter block to allow for full flow of oil with
    the oil cooler blocked. Otherwise, the oil pressure rises
    due to the blocked cooler, opening the bypass valve, but the
    open valve still restricts flow compared to removing it
    entirely.

  2. This is done easiest by modifying the pipe in the pan to
    match in diameter and aim in the right direction to mate,
    via a hose, to the overflow pipe in the XJ block. Don’t
    kink the hose.

  3. On most of the XJ filter blocks, there is a threaded hole
    at the top designed to supply feeds to the cams. If you
    keep your existing feed from the exhaust side, an adapter
    can be fit for the gauge sender. I have no idea if this
    interferes with anything on the E, as I did it on an S1 XJ6.
    You can also (if room) use one of the plugs opposite the
    bearings–Jag provides an adapter, standard on S1 XJ6 (which
    had a canister oil filter originally).

  4. You must use a gasket that matches precisely the block
    you will use, NOT the original gasket. All of the passages
    within the block depend on the proper gasket for sealing.–
    The original message included these comments:

  1. Exactly how to block off the oil cooler ports.
  2. How to modify the oil bypass port to send to the oil pan.
  3. Is the oil pressure sender port the same size and thread?
  4. Any gasket issues or just the standard e-type gasket?


Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
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In reply to a message from golfnut324 sent Thu 3 May 2012:

  1. You don’t block them off you connect them. Two ways. There is
    a factory made loop of metal that connects the two ports. and
    there is an internal part that can be removed. You can then block
    off the ports. I did the later and used the factory pipes the went
    to the oil cooler. I simply cut them to about 3 inches long and
    squeezed the ends shut and brazed them completely shut.

  2. I reconfigured the fitting on the pan to point to about the 10
    o’clock position and ran a longer piece of hose from the filter
    head to the pan.

  3. Can’t recall.

  4. Get in touch with SNG Barrett, they will ensure you get the
    right gasket. Just tell them what you are trying to do.–
    The original message included these comments:

  1. Exactly how to block off the oil cooler ports.
  2. How to modify the oil bypass port to send to the oil pan.
  3. Is the oil pressure sender port the same size and thread?
  4. Any gasket issues or just the standard e-type gasket?


John Walker, No E-Type at present
La Porte, Tex, United States
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In reply to a message from golfnut324 sent Thu 3 May 2012:

Why not Coventey West and our own pres, Dick Maury?–
John
MA, United States
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In reply to a message from John7 sent Thu 3 May 2012:

Exactly John-and get the lines and cooler while you are at it!–
The original message included these comments:

Why not Coventey West and our own pres, Dick Maury?


JCRC SE member JCNA Regional Director SE JCNA Auth. Desk
Columbia SC, United States
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In reply to a message from John Walker sent Thu 3 May 2012:

There are many configs of oil filter head and Paen gasket sets come
with 3-4 gaskets, sometimes more. You must have the gasket that
precisely lines up with the ports/chambers of the filter head.

Sadly, the horseshoe-shaped oil cooler bypass casting shown on the
AJ6 filter block linked earlier does not fit the XK filter head. I
think Mk2s used somethnig that looks very similar but does fit.
PResumably plenty of XJs used it too but am never sure which and in
the UK many heads are blanked off anyhow. You can just use the
existing fittings and loop some hose between them if you don’t want
to run a cooler. The line carries high pressure so hydraulic
fastenings are best.

If buying the filter lblcok you may as well buy the cam feed line.
Converting the rearwards horizontal bypass outlet to match the
vertical lower sump connection can be done with soft or hard pipe
but also needs care. Very worth while mod though IMHO and I run it
on the OTS. Cheap too, which never hurts…–
The original message included these comments:

  1. You don’t block them off you connect them. Two ways. There is
    a factory made loop of metal that connects the two ports. and
    there is an internal part that can be removed. You can then block


1E75339 66 D, 1E33100 66 FHC, 1R7977 69 OTS, 1R9720 69OTS
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from John7 sent Thu 3 May 2012:

I’ve only had experience buying the right gasket from SNG. I’m not
saying SNG is the only game in town; I’m simply relating what I did.–
The original message included these comments:

Why not Coventey West and our own pres, Dick Maury?


John Walker, No E-Type at present
La Porte, Tex, United States
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In reply to a message from John Walker sent Thu 3 May 2012:

Ok, thanks to the help that you all have provided here, I’m
close to understanding how to pull off the conversion to the
XJ6 spin on filter block and I have a good source. Just one
more question: Can someone confirm that the port in the
filter housing for the cam oil feed can be used for the
pressure sending unit? Actually, I’m planning on converting
to a mechanical 0-100 psi gauge while I’m at it but I’m not
sure which port to use.

Thanks!–
Craig Gilbert - 1968 E-Type FHC
Birmingham, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from golfnut324 sent Sat 5 May 2012:

Yes, any port in a storm…

If you stick with your existing downstream cam oiler you can use
the filter block port for your gauge take-off. Be very careful to
protect the pipe where it goes through the body (use a grommet) and
where it sits between the instrument wiring. I had a nylon pipe
melt against an overheating wiring connection and leak loads of oil
inside the passenger compartment into the felt and footwells. It
lost a couple of pints without seemingly affecting the reading
before anything seeped through the plastic-backed carpet from
behind. I thought that was taking rustproofing a little too
far… :frowning:

I replaced it with a copper capillary tube (and fixed the
connection) but slipped vinyly washer tubing over the copper so it
couldn’t short anything when moving the instrument console up and
down.

Pete–
The original message included these comments:

more question: Can someone confirm that the port in the
filter housing for the cam oil feed can be used for the
pressure sending unit? Actually, I’m planning on converting
to a mechanical 0-100 psi gauge while I’m at it but I’m not
sure which port to use.


1E75339 66 D, 1E33100 66 FHC, 1R7977 69 OTS, 1R9720 69OTS
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Sat 5 May 2012:

Thanks for confirming that Pete. And yes, running an oil
line back there does concern me but, based on other’s
success on this forum, I’m planning on using a braided
stainless line after wrapping it in shrink wrap to insulate.

By the way, I stumbled across a comment somewhere (but can’t
find it now) that recommended using some kind of ‘‘isolator’’
in the line prior to crossing the bulkhead. If fluid flow
was sensed, the isolator valve would close and stop the
flow. Makes sense that something like that might exist. Does
anyone have any knowledge of that?–
The original message included these comments:

Yes, any port in a storm…
If you stick with your existing downstream cam oiler you can use
the filter block port for your gauge take-off. Be very careful to
protect the pipe where it goes through the body (use a grommet) and
where it sits between the instrument wiring. I had a nylon pipe


Craig Gilbert - 1968 E-Type FHC
Birmingham, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from golfnut324 sent Thu 3 May 2012:

After reading through all this schtuff about adapting the XJ6
components, why go through all the bother? I found it much easier
just to get a spin-on filter adapter specifically designed for the
E-Type (about $95) - it arrives via UPS, takes about 30 min to
install, and away you go. I got mine from:
http://www.coolcatcorp.com–
The original message included these comments:

Spin-on oil filter adapter or S3 XJ6 oil filter housing?


Mike - Ol’ Gurrl ('66 E-type OTS) & New ('08 S 4.2)
Aiken, SC, United States
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In reply to a message from Mike Gregory sent Sun 6 May 2012:

Hi Mike,

I have wrestled with both options and even the third of just
keeping the original cannister. I’m still not 100% on the XJ
filter housing conversion but here are my thoughts:

  1. Coolcat is currently out of the spin on adapter I need.
    There’s is no red hot hurry though. They do apparently
    provide a high quality adapter but it has been recommended
    that the filter housing be removed from the engine block for
    the purpose of fitting the adapter anyway.
  2. The spin on adapter still has a ring gasket that needs to
    be fitted between the adapter and the existing filter
    housing. This basically introduces the same problem I’ve
    been having with the ring gasket and the cannister I now
    have. Seems that over the last 20 years or so those ring
    gaskets and the groove they fit in have gotten a lot smaller
    and harder for me to see! I’ve also had to re-tighten the
    cannister against the ring gasket after initially installing
    due to leaks. I guess the heating/cooling cycles cause the
    pressure against the gasket to lesson?

Anyway, cost difference should be negligible. Time and
effort might be a little more than with the adapter but I
won’t have to ever worry about that ring gasket again.

Just my thoughts.

Thanks again to everyone for helping me with this!–
The original message included these comments:

After reading through all this schtuff about adapting the XJ6
components, why go through all the bother? I found it much easier
just to get a spin-on filter adapter specifically designed for the
E-Type (about $95) - it arrives via UPS, takes about 30 min to
install, and away you go. I got mine from:
http://www.coolcatcorp.com


Craig Gilbert - 1968 E-Type FHC
Birmingham, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from golfnut324 sent Sun 6 May 2012:

Craig,
At least on my S1 application, there was absolutely no need to
remove the filter housing from the block. The one and only
original part requiring removal was the central ‘‘pillar’’ to which
the canister bolt attaches. That required only a firm loosing
whack with a suitable tommy bar inserted into the cross drilled
hole and then about 30 sec of CCW turning of the pillar.

You are correct that the new adaptor base does require the use of
that wretched circular rubber gasket, but this should be a one-time-
only step. After the adaptor install, you should never again have
to greet that demonic piece of rubber. Even with my stock canister
over the past 41 years, I never had a problem with oil leakage from
this gasket. It is a royal PITA to get out the old gasket (I use a
bent safety pin to spear out the old gasket with the sharp end) -
but it is crucial to get out the old, together with any and all
residue left behind. Then, as long as the replacement gasket is
seated properly (I even used the original canister to initially
seat the gasket), and the new adaptor plate is carefully tightened
into the groove, compressing the gasket uniformly, one should not
have to worry about the circular rubber gasket in this lifetime
(unless one is a youngster). I think that this is the KEY step in
the installation of the spin-on filter conversion.

I was very pleased with my install - I even like the look of the
spin-on oil filter (an OEM part) with the Jaguar logo plus leaper
appliques clearly visible against the white filter body.

Mike–
The original message included these comments:

provide a high quality adapter but it has been recommended
that the filter housing be removed from the engine block for
the purpose of fitting the adapter anyway.
housing. This basically introduces the same problem I’ve
been having with the ring gasket and the cannister I now
have. Seems that over the last 20 years or so those ring


Mike - Ol’ Gurrl ('66 E-type OTS) & New ('08 S 4.2)
Aiken, SC, United States
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In reply to a message from Mike Gregory sent Sun 6 May 2012:

On a related note… Does anyone have a spare oil filter
block they’d be willing to part with? I’ve been wanting for
some time to design a complete replacement filter block
designed for a spin-on filter, with a second oil sender port.
I’ve had two spin-on adaptors, and both failed, making a God-
awful mess, due to failure to account for the wide variation
in dimensions in the filter blocks. I’ve always thought a
replacement filter block would be a better, and no more
expensive, option. Most importantly, it would be designed so
you could remove the filter without spilling oil all over the
lower frame rail and mud shield.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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I have one Ray----it has a replacement drain bolt in it if that is not a problem. Contact me off list if yoiu want it.

tom---- Ray Livingston jagboy@pacbell.net wrote:

=============
In reply to a message from Mike Gregory sent Sun 6 May 2012:

On a related note… Does anyone have a spare oil filter
block they’d be willing to part with? I’ve been wanting for
some time to design a complete replacement filter block
designed for a spin-on filter, with a second oil sender port.
I’ve had two spin-on adaptors, and both failed, making a God-
awful mess, due to failure to account for the wide variation
in dimensions in the filter blocks. I’ve always thought a
replacement filter block would be a better, and no more
expensive, option. Most importantly, it would be designed so
you could remove the filter without spilling oil all over the
lower frame rail and mud shield.

Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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