In reply to a message from golfnut324 sent Sun 6 May 2012:
Craig,
At least on my S1 application, there was absolutely no need to
remove the filter housing from the block. The one and only
original part requiring removal was the central ‘‘pillar’’ to which
the canister bolt attaches. That required only a firm loosing
whack with a suitable tommy bar inserted into the cross drilled
hole and then about 30 sec of CCW turning of the pillar.
You are correct that the new adaptor base does require the use of
that wretched circular rubber gasket, but this should be a one-time-
only step. After the adaptor install, you should never again have
to greet that demonic piece of rubber. Even with my stock canister
over the past 41 years, I never had a problem with oil leakage from
this gasket. It is a royal PITA to get out the old gasket (I use a
bent safety pin to spear out the old gasket with the sharp end) -
but it is crucial to get out the old, together with any and all
residue left behind. Then, as long as the replacement gasket is
seated properly (I even used the original canister to initially
seat the gasket), and the new adaptor plate is carefully tightened
into the groove, compressing the gasket uniformly, one should not
have to worry about the circular rubber gasket in this lifetime
(unless one is a youngster). I think that this is the KEY step in
the installation of the spin-on filter conversion.
I was very pleased with my install - I even like the look of the
spin-on oil filter (an OEM part) with the Jaguar logo plus leaper
appliques clearly visible against the white filter body.
Mike–
The original message included these comments:
provide a high quality adapter but it has been recommended
that the filter housing be removed from the engine block for
the purpose of fitting the adapter anyway.
housing. This basically introduces the same problem I’ve
been having with the ring gasket and the cannister I now
have. Seems that over the last 20 years or so those ring
–
Mike - Ol’ Gurrl ('66 E-type OTS) & New ('08 S 4.2)
Aiken, SC, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php
In reply to a message from Mike Gregory sent Sun 6 May 2012:
On a related note… Does anyone have a spare oil filter
block they’d be willing to part with? I’ve been wanting for
some time to design a complete replacement filter block
designed for a spin-on filter, with a second oil sender port.
I’ve had two spin-on adaptors, and both failed, making a God-
awful mess, due to failure to account for the wide variation
in dimensions in the filter blocks. I’ve always thought a
replacement filter block would be a better, and no more
expensive, option. Most importantly, it would be designed so
you could remove the filter without spilling oil all over the
lower frame rail and mud shield.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php
I have one Ray----it has a replacement drain bolt in it if that is not a problem. Contact me off list if yoiu want it.
tom---- Ray Livingston jagboy@pacbell.net wrote:
=============
In reply to a message from Mike Gregory sent Sun 6 May 2012:
On a related note… Does anyone have a spare oil filter
block they’d be willing to part with? I’ve been wanting for
some time to design a complete replacement filter block
designed for a spin-on filter, with a second oil sender port.
I’ve had two spin-on adaptors, and both failed, making a God-
awful mess, due to failure to account for the wide variation
in dimensions in the filter blocks. I’ve always thought a
replacement filter block would be a better, and no more
expensive, option. Most importantly, it would be designed so
you could remove the filter without spilling oil all over the
lower frame rail and mud shield.
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php
Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Sun 6 May 2012:
If you were designing it as an E-type part it would be good to
offer a vertical bypass return pipe to fit the E-type sump. If your
part offered advantages regardless of application, you could maybe
design two versions one for sedans one for E-types. You could also
maybe do one version drilled and tapped for both locations that
came with one blanking plug and one tube to allow owner selection
for either horizontal and vertical return pipe options?
I will have a spare XJ version in the USA by mid July.
Pete–
1E75339 66 D, 1E33100 66 FHC, 1R7977 69 OTS, 1R9720 69OTS
Cambridge, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php
In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Mon 7 May 2012:
Pete,
How does the return connect on a sedan? I wasn’t aware they
were different…–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php