I believe mechanics labor hours are subject to sales tax in Texas.
It will vary state to state.–
The original message included these comments:
Just noticed another thing that really irks me, TAX? Call me crazy but
I really don’t think that someone’s labor is subject to sales tax. I
can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to get into debates with service
providers about this subject. I can pretty much guarantee that this sum
won’t be reported to his local tax board.
–
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Although the preface says, “Listed below are SOME types of services that are
taxable”, you’d think auto mechanic work would be so prevalent they would
have highlighted it were it subject to tax. Hmm, escort services are
taxable. I wonder if lap dances count ;^)
Eric
I believe mechanics labor hours are subject to sales tax in Texas.
It will vary state to state.–
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
This is what I’ve done…do it once right and forget about it !
Mike Goodwin & KoolKat
’ 68 OTS E Type W/HT & SUs
Phoenix, AZ USA----- Original Message -----
From: “John Walker” john.walker@shell.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Oil Sump Drain
In reply to a message from syncro sent Fri 15 Dec 2006:
Holy Moly, that’s obscene.
It took less time than that for me to remove the pan retap to the
larger metric size drain plug, clean everything up and reinstall
the pan.
Thinking about these pan repairs I guess if I had to do it again I
would have fashioned a steel sleeve, with threads on the inside,
the same as the original drain plug and threads on the outside.
Then I would tap the pan for the OD threads and screw the sleeve in
using a suitable sealant that would ''cement the sleeve in the pan.
The original message included these comments:
Total time: 11 hours @ $65 per hour = $715 + $42tax $757
–
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.20/588 - Release Date:
12/15/2006 10:02 AM
Thant’s what I,m thinking now. I have a 1/2" pipe thread piece of pipe
with the screw-in plug inside it. I want to thread the sump for the pipe
thread piece and install. Then all I need to do is leave that piece in and
remove the screw-in plug. What are your thought on this? I’m thinking of
coating the threads with JB.
In reply to a message from syncro sent Fri 15 Dec 2006:
Holy Moly, that’s obscene.
It took less time than that for me to remove the pan retap to the
larger metric size drain plug, clean everything up and reinstall
the pan.
Thinking about these pan repairs I guess if I had to do it again I
would have fashioned a steel sleeve, with threads on the inside,
the same as the original drain plug and threads on the outside.
Then I would tap the pan for the OD threads and screw the sleeve in
using a suitable sealant that would ''cement the sleeve in the pan.
The original message included these comments:
Total time: 11 hours @ $65 per hour = $715 + $42tax $757
–
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Outside threads of course ! Take pictures of sump and work, several people
may need this process in times to come.
Mike Goodwin & KoolKat
’ 68 OTS E Type W/HT & SUs
Phoenix, AZ USA----- Original Message -----
From: “Tom Felts” tomfelts@earthlink.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org; e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Oil Sump Drain
Thant’s what I,m thinking now. I have a 1/2" pipe thread piece of pipe
with the screw-in plug inside it. I want to thread the sump for the pipe
thread piece and install. Then all I need to do is leave that piece in
and
remove the screw-in plug. What are your thought on this? I’m thinking of
coating the threads with JB.
In reply to a message from syncro sent Fri 15 Dec 2006:
Holy Moly, that’s obscene.
It took less time than that for me to remove the pan retap to the
larger metric size drain plug, clean everything up and reinstall
the pan.
Thinking about these pan repairs I guess if I had to do it again I
would have fashioned a steel sleeve, with threads on the inside,
the same as the original drain plug and threads on the outside.
Then I would tap the pan for the OD threads and screw the sleeve in
using a suitable sealant that would ''cement the sleeve in the pan.
The original message included these comments:
Total time: 11 hours @ $65 per hour = $715 + $42tax $757
–
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.21/589 - Release Date:
12/15/2006 5:10 PM
In reply to a message from Eric MaLossi sent Fri 15 Dec 2006:
Mechanics labor taxes were part of a bill in the Texas House in 05,
same bill that contained Gov. Perry’s bogus property tax
reduction. I thought it passed, I could certainly be wrong
though.
Lap dances taxable? Only one way to find out. :-)–
The original message included these comments:
taxable. I wonder if lap dances count ;^)
–
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Tom Felts sent Fri 15 Dec 2006:
When you say pipe thread I automatically thinkl tapered as in the
tapered threads on plumbing pipe, nipples and steel fittings. If
you have those kind of threads OD on the sleeve you would need to
have tapered threads in the pan also.
You already knew this, but I thought it worth mentioning anyway.–
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from syncro sent Fri 15 Dec 2006:
If you haven’t paid, don’t. Any lawyer could eat that guy
alive. In fact, that’s not just a civil wrong, it’s
criminally wrong. If you have paid, bring charges. Any law
school prof will be glad to use it as a moot case, and
provide free advice. I certainly would have.–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Wellllllll----I’m still looking for the tap that will put the correct
threads in the sump. But–when I find it that is what I’ll put in. Seems
to be a natural for not having to disturb sump threads every time you
change oil.
In reply to a message from Tom Felts sent Fri 15 Dec 2006:
When you say pipe thread I automatically thinkl tapered as in the
tapered threads on plumbing pipe, nipples and steel fittings. If
you have those kind of threads OD on the sleeve you would need to
have tapered threads in the pan also.
You already knew this, but I thought it worth mentioning anyway.
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Tom Felts sent Sat 16 Dec 2006:
Check with any plumbers you know or a plumbing supply house. I
would guess that straight threads on the sleeve and sump would work
and the JB weld would be sufficient to keep the sleeve in place.
I spent a little time looking at tap sources and came across this:
I didn’t know there were so many different kinds of taps.–
The original message included these comments:
Wellllllll----I’m still looking for the tap that will put the correct
threads in the sump. But–when I find it that is what I’ll put in. Seems
to be a natural for not having to disturb sump threads every time you
change oil.
–
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from John Walker sent Sat 16 Dec 2006:
Someone has mentioned the problem with pipe threads
already, but let me reiterate: most pipe fittings, and
especially plugs, are tapered. That’s fine when (a) you’re
not going to separate the join very often and (b) you’re
working in iron or copper. With aluminum, every time you
screw it in you run the risk of cracking the female part,
which in this case is the sump. Buy a drain that fits into
the hole, and has an insert. I can’t recall wdo makes them,
but they’re out there.–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from John Walker sent Sat 16 Dec 2006:
Someone has mentioned the problem with pipe threads
already, but let me reiterate: most pipe fittings, and
especially plugs, are tapered. That’s fine when (a) you’re
not going to separate the join very often and (b) you’re
working in iron or copper. With aluminum, every time you
screw it in you run the risk of cracking the female part,
which in this case is the sump. Buy a drain that fits into
the hole, and has an insert. I can’t recall wdo makes them,
but they’re out there.
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In a message dated 12/16/2006 6:44:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, tomfelts@earthlink.net writes:
Not to belabor this topic, but what if you use the pipe threads and leave
them in–using the insert the pipe has inside it?____________________________________________________________________________
I installed one of Mike Frank’s oil drain gizmos and I really like it. You
never have to unsrew the plug again.
In reply to a message from Tom Felts sent Sun 17 Dec 2006:
Get the 5/8’’ piggy back plug from NAPA for around $7, JB Weld it in
place, and drain your oil with the 1/2’’ plug that is built into it.
It’s such a simple fix it’s scary.
Joel–
The original message included these comments:
Not to belabor this topic, but what if you use the pipe threads and leave
them in–using the insert the pipe has inside it?
–
ex jag, '66 E-type S1 4.2, '56 XK140dhc
Denison, TX, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from syncro sent Fri 15 Dec 2006:
unbelievable, I wouldn’t go there if it were the last place on earth. My mechanic
back in PA. would have charged me $40. and apologized for charging so
much.–
The original message included these comments:
Total time: 11 hours @ $65 per hour = $715 + $42tax $757
–
Rob G. 65 FHC
Waxhaw, NC, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from ex jag sent Sun 17 Dec 2006:
As I said, they’re out there. With regard to Mike Frank’s
oil drain gizmos, I wanted to use one, but the hole in my
sump has been enlarged, and Mike’s fitting wouldn’t work.
The things from NAPA doa the same thing, althought they
aren’t as elegant.–
The original message included these comments:
Get the 5/8’’ piggy back plug from NAPA for around $7, JB Weld it in
place, and drain your oil with the 1/2’’ plug that is built into it.
–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In a message dated 12/16/2006 6:44:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, @tom_felts writes:
Not to belabor this topic, but what if you use the pipe threads and leave
them in–using the insert the pipe has inside it?
I installed one of Mike Frank’s oil drain gizmos and I really like it.
You
never have to unsrew the plug again.
In reply to a message from Tom Felts sent Sun 17 Dec 2006:
Get the 5/8’’ piggy back plug from NAPA for around $7, JB Weld it in
place, and drain your oil with the 1/2’’ plug that is built into it.
It’s such a simple fix it’s scary.
Joel
The original message included these comments:
Not to belabor this topic, but what if you use the pipe threads and
leave
them in–using the insert the pipe has inside it?
–
ex jag, '66 E-type S1 4.2, '56 XK140dhc
Denison, TX, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In a message dated 12/17/2006 6:53:17 AM Pacific Standard Time, tomfelts@earthlink.net writes:
What size is Mike Frank’s plug. The hole in my sump may already be to big
to accomodate it.
I don’t know, they may well be available in larger sizes. They are pricey,
but IMHO well worth the money because you will never have the problem again.
In a message dated 12/17/2006 6:53:17 AM Pacific Standard Time, @tom_felts writes:
What size is Mike Frank’s plug. The hole in my sump may already be to
big
to accomodate it.
I don’t know, they may well be available in larger sizes. They are
pricey,
but IMHO well worth the money because you will never have the problem
again.