[E-Type] Order of reassembly question

My S1 FHC shell returns on Friday, painted but otherwise bare of
all fittings. Please does anyone have a reasonably definitive order
in which parts should be refitted, so as to avoid having to take
bits off to fit others?–
christopher storey
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In reply to a message from christopher storey sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

I’ll make some assumptions, here: that the bumpers have been
already test-fitted and are ready to mount, that all major
subassemblies are ready for installation;

-put on front subframes, install wiring harnesses, brake and fuel
lines; and all underdash stuff;
-Now’s the time to do all inside and outside noise deadening/heat
blanketing;
-fuel tank, THEN rear bumpers!
-install engine/gearbox/cooling system/other engine compartment
componentry
-build up front suspension;
-install IRS;
-Test run!!!
-Time to do upholstery (you poor bastid…)
-install all glass;
-Finish all outside trim, bumpers.

That’s a VERY truncated version, and I’m sure others will flesh it
out!
Bonne chance!–
The original message included these comments:

My S1 FHC shell returns on Friday, painted but otherwise bare of
all fittings. Please does anyone have a reasonably definitive order
in which parts should be refitted, so as to avoid having to take
bits off to fit others?


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Yo! Wiggy. It’s an S1 so left rear bumper before fuel tank, surely,
if access is needed to the back of the bumper bolts? I know they
changed from 3.8 to 4.2 in terms of cutouts under the bumpers and
which side you fasten from, but I’d still do that side bumper first.

I’d also do the wiring along that side and drain hoses before
installing the tank. In fact I’d install the harness more or less
as soon as I’d done the sound deadening/rustproofing. After I’d
done the tank I would stuff all around the edges and bottom of the
fitted tank with rags, to stop stray sockets or other stuff rolling
off the side and under the tank where they are unreachable. No
prizes for guessing how I found that out :frowning:

Pete–
The original message included these comments:

-fuel tank, THEN rear bumpers!


66 2+2, 68 OTS lump, 94 X300 Sovereign, 94 XJR Manual
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

‘’-fuel tank, THEN rear bumpers!’’

?? On my 3.8, the left bumper has to go on BEFORE the fuel
tank goes in. You can’t reach the bolts with the tank in.–
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from christopher storey sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Wiggy gave you a fine start. Having just gone through this, I can
add a couple of tips…The first thing I would do is go through all
of your parts for reassembly (put your hands on every single nut,
bolt and fitting). Start making piles for plating, re-chroming,
chroming, powder coating, etc. Inventory everything that will be
sent out (pictures are also a good idea). Send them out soon.

Here’s a good example. The metal clutch hydraulic line that runs
from the master cylinder assy., across the firewall gets silver cad
plated and this is a part you definitely want to install before you
install the engine. Also. if your heater pipes are out, it’s a lot
easier to install these before the engine goes in. It’s easier if
you have a second helper. Preferably someone with small hands.

I’ve not installed a fuel tank on an FHC, but I’ll assume it’s a
similar nightmare as an OTS…Lay out all of the wiring before you
install the tank. Also, reconnect all of the water drain tubes
before you think about installing the tank (I think an FHC has
drain tubes?). Slide the rubber filler hose over the filler pipe
that’s welded to the body work. Slide it up as far as it will go.
Put both clamps on the hose loosely. You will need to slide the
tank under the hose during installation. Attach the vent hose to
the tank before you install the tank. There are rubber grommets
that go under the tank mounting flanges. Glue or wire these in
place before you install the tank. There is a removable tank flange
that mounts near the center line if the body. Remove this.
Reinstall after the tank is in. Install the tank without any of the
bolt on parts. Make sure the sump is off and the pick up assembly
is removed. Make sure there are no children about to hear your
swearing and screaming.–
The original message included these comments:

My S1 FHC shell returns on Friday, painted but otherwise bare of
all fittings. Please does anyone have a reasonably definitive order
in which parts should be refitted, so as to avoid having to take
bits off to fit others?


John B. - 69 SII OTS 1R7442
Pottstown, PA, United States
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In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Pete…that’s why I emphasized TANK FIRST…given he’s got an early
SI coupe…;)–
The original message included these comments:

Yo! Wiggy. It’s an S1 so left rear bumper before fuel tank, surely,
if access is needed to the back of the bumper bolts? I know they
changed from 3.8 to 4.2 in terms of cutouts under the bumpers and
which side you fasten from, but I’d still do that side bumper first.


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Clive Wilkinson sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Woops…I stand corrected…I transposed thoughts…and Pete and
Clivbe are entirely correct! BUMPER FIRST, then tank.

I gotta stop posting so early in the Am…!!!

Paul ‘‘Dope Slap Needed’’ Wigton–
The original message included these comments:

‘’-fuel tank, THEN rear bumpers!’’
?? On my 3.8, the left bumper has to go on BEFORE the fuel
tank goes in. You can’t reach the bolts with the tank in.


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from christopher storey sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Chris,
It’s really very simple! You simply the reverse the order of
disassembly! :-)–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Adult onset, lysdexia.

A waste is a terrible thing to mind. It WAS emphasized…in my
head.

Paul (who’s a member of Mechanics Against Dyslexia -DAM- since
1980) Wiggles–
The original message included these comments:

Pete…that’s why I emphasized TANK FIRST…given he’s got an early
SI coupe…:wink:

Yo! Wiggy. It’s an S1 so left rear bumper before fuel tank, surely,
if access is needed to the back of the bumper bolts? I know they
changed from 3.8 to 4.2 in terms of cutouts under the bumpers and
which side you fasten from, but I’d still do that side bumper first.


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Install drive shaft before the IRS!–
Jim Horvath, '67 OTS, 1E13653
San Jose/CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Jim Horvath sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Install windscreen wiper rack before anything else!–
Andrys, '69 e-type 2+2 in bits & boxes - But with new paint!
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In reply to a message from Andrys Posthuma sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Andrys,

I don't know....  You might want to install the water pipes 

first…–
The original message included these comments:

Install windscreen wiper rack before anything else!

Andrys, '69 e-type 2+2 in bits & boxes - But with new paint!


Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

And the washer jets and pipework. Then the rack…–
The original message included these comments:

I don't know....  You might want to install the water pipes 

first…


66 2+2, 68 OTS lump, 94 X300 Sovereign, 94 XJR Manual
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from christopher storey sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Chris, you writin’ ALL this down?

:):):)–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Install everything first.–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
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In reply to a message from IanCameron sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Hang the starter on a wire from your garage ceiling. Assemble
everything else around the starter. I believe I saw period factory
photos of this process ;)–
The original message included these comments:

Install everything first.


John B. - 69 SII OTS 1R7442
Pottstown, PA, United States
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In reply to a message from christopher storey sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

When I put mine together, I already had most everything else
completed and ready to install. I had already
rebuilt/restored/painted/had plated/etc most of the
component parts. I felt doing it that way, the project would
flow better.

But I did mine somewhat differently because I didn’t finish
the final bodywork and painting until the engine was in but
before I put the glass or interior in. I wanted to be sure
to get the panel alignment spot on. So on the shell, all the
interior, bulkhead, frames, door shuts, bonnet underside
etc. were finish painted with colour but the exterior
remained almost finished but in urethane high-build, so I
could adjust later it if necessary.

IIRC, the first jobs on the shell were the under-car fuel
pipe, maybe cleaning out all the weld nut threads under
there while you’re at it (for the exhausts, heat shields
etc.) Then the fully assembled and aligned IRS, the front
suspension, steering rack and column, so now it could sit on
jack stands with the wheels off.

In my case, I had removed the doors and the hatch for easier
access but that might not be a good idea if you’ve already
had those installed and aligned.

You need to have some prior notes here, because many of the
frame and picture frame bolts have various clips under them
to hold looms and pipes, so if you don’t know where, you’ll
be removing them again later. You also need to know the
correct runs for the looms and brake pipes etc.

Then the heater pipes, wiper rack and motor and the
electrical stuff. You need to finish the dash, the wiring,
demister vents and the dash top before the windshield goes in.

Then maybe the bulkhead stuff, brakes pedal boxes, covers,
reservoirs, washer, heater valve etc. and then you can start
the hard brake lines and the remainder of the wiring.

Then, I put the engine in, (don’t forget the propshaft) the
rad, header tank etc. put the wheels on and the gas tank in
temporarily and test drove the car, sans doors, bonnet or
hatch and still no glass or interior. That was fun,but a
mandatory event, anyway.

Next was the installation of the doors, hatch and rebuilt
bonnet, together with the final body alignment and
adjustment (which included some more minor bodywork in my
case, to get the gaps and lines correct across the doors and
bonnet etc.).

Then, I block sanded the whole exterior, fished and masked
the body ready for the final colour, which a friend applied
for me. I had removed the bonnet for this, for ease of
painting but it was painted at the same time as the car, in
the same booth.

Next was the interior, a Suffolk and Turley kit I imported
from England and installed myself Plus all the body seals,
door seals etc. and finally the glass and exterior trim.

I may have some of this out of order because it was 10 years
ago and from memory. But in any case, fitting out the car
was certainly the most exiting time of the whole project for
me. Next to actually driving it and getting comments from
other restorers. :wink: Good luck with yo–
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from christopher storey sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Install the parts in the reverse order to when they fall off later.
Dave–
gtrguy
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In reply to a message from gtrguy sent Wed 19 Nov 2008:

Chris,

Wiggy got it pretty much on the button - here is some more flesh:

  1. Install the fuel line under the car - don’t forget the union
    that goes in the boot. If you fit the rear suspension before the
    fuel line, you will have to remove it again.
  2. Fit rear suspension (gets it out of the way) but remember that
    the rear will be heavier than the front.
  3. Fit sound deadener to door skins prior to waxoyling.
  4. Bulkhead - start from the bottom pipe and work up to fitting
    washer jets last.
  5. Ensure all the wiring is tight to the sills (I believe that CMC
    glue an ali plate over the wiring where it runs the length of the
    car so that the viynl cover sits flat).
  6. Dont fit the windscreen or dash top until you are absolutely
    sure you don’t need access. Fit dashtop before windscreen.
  7. Scrape the paint off the earthing points.

Good luck!–
65 OTS 1E11497
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Wish I’d thought of that!
Cheers,
LynnOn Nov 19, 2008, at 2:32 PM, Angus Moss wrote:

  1. …(I believe that CMC
    glue an ali plate over the wiring where it runs the length of the
    car so that the viynl cover sits flat).

Lynn G
73fhc 4zs
68ots 3su
Boise, ID USA


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