[E-Type] outer fulcrum preload

‘’…yes.
you don’t want to pinch the wishbone when you torque the
outer fulcrum nuts and of course you need to maintain the
pre load which presumably you have established in accordance
with the workshop manual�.’’

Well I am even more confused on that as the manual says
preload is 0-.002 in. So zero means no float is acceptable
doesn’t it? And if zero then the preload is the 55 ft lbs, ?–
S1 XKE 1966. I really got to put this back together…
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In reply to a message from Bill B 2 sent Sat 14 Nov 2015:

Bill,

In the context of bearing setup, preload is a measurement of
negative clearance. It is not related to the torque figure
of 55 lbft you refer to. In the case of the outer fulcrum
bearings, you need to set up the thickness of shims between
the distance tubes inside the hub carrier so that you have a
preload of 0 to 2 thou. That is a clearance of 0 to -2
(negative 2) thou. This is done using the measurement
technique described in the Service Manual. You want to
preserve this bearing preload when you insert the hub
carrier between the arms of the wishbone, so that when the
fulcrum shaft is inserted, and the nuts torqued to 55 lbft,
the bearings are indeed still preloaded 0-2 thou. In my
opinion, this is hard to do using the approach described in
the manual, without resorting to bending in the arms of the
wishbone when you torque up the fulcrum shaft nut. The
problem is that without the shaft/nuts in place, the
bearings cannot be held in the preloaded state to measure
the actual clearance between the carrier and the arms of the
wishbone, and even if you could measure the gap accurately,
there it is very difficult to squeeze the thin fragile shims
into place to take up gap without damaging them. On my
website, I illustrate the technique I use to solve this
problem. It involves the use of temporary spacers that allow
the hub carrier to be offered up to the wishbone with the
torqued fulcrum shaft in place, so that an accurate
measurement can be made of the gap. Then, after dividing the
shim pack into two equal halves (to centralize the carrier),
I install them under the outer washer on each end of the
carrier seal/bearing package before reinstalling the shaft
and spacers and retorquing the nuts. The washer protects the
fragile shims. Now the carrier can be offered up to the
wishbone, and if the shimming was done correctly will be a
snug fit between the arms of the wishbone. The spacer is
thin enough that the hub carrier components have enough
‘‘meat’’ between the arms of the wishbone that they will stay
in place if the shaft is then carefully removed (having
removed one nut). The spacers are then discarded and the
carrier gently tapped fully into place before the shaft is
refitted and torqued to 55 lbft.

This is probably hard to understand in text alone, but
hopefully the photos will make it clear. Whether all this
effort to avoid a little bending of the wishbone is
justified is unclear to me, but that is what I do…

Hope this helps.
-David–
The original message included these comments:

Well I am even more confused on that as the manual says
preload is 0-.002 in. So zero means no float is acceptable
doesn’t it? And if zero then the preload is the 55 ft lbs, ?


http://tinyurl.com/b4fdupp XK140MC OTS, S2 XKE OTS, XK8 OTS
Monterey CA, United States
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In reply to a message from davidxk sent Sat 14 Nov 2015:

any hints how to measure the end float of the fulcrum bearing
pre loads if you have the hub attached to the axel? I see no
reason to dismantle the hubs and didn’t want to either.

But again, if the manual says .000 to .002, doesn’t that mean
locking the thing up solid is ok?–
S1 XKE 1966. I really got to put this back together…
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In reply to a message from Bill B 2 sent Sat 14 Nov 2015:

Bill,
Take it apart and do it by the book. If the procedure wa
was wail on it until tight as heck it would say so.

Andrew–
The original message included these comments:

But again, if the manual says .000 to .002, doesn’t that mean
locking the thing up solid is ok?


1968 3.8S
Zurich, Switzerland
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David,
In looking at your pics I see you used cunifer brake lines. Did you
use any kind of bending/forming tools or just careful forming by hand?–
Les…'68 S1.5 2+2


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In reply to a message from JagWaugh sent Sat 14 Nov 2015:

Bill,

…like Andrew says. From your earlier postings it sounds
like you want your rear suspension to be ‘‘just right’’. As
far as I know that means doing it by the book.

  • David–
    The original message included these comments:
Take it apart and do it by the book. If the procedure wa

was wail on it until tight as heck it would say so.


http://tinyurl.com/b4fdupp XK140MC OTS, S2 XKE OTS, XK8 OTS
Monterey CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Sat 14 Nov 2015:

Les,

As I recall I just hand formed all the pipes except the
one that goes between the brake master cylinder and the
Servo. That pipe is larger diameter than all the rest and
has one very tight 180 degree bend. For that I used a hand
tool (kind of like a pair of pliers) and made a bit of a
hash of it…

-David–
The original message included these comments:

In looking at your pics I see you used cunifer brake lines. Did you
use any kind of bending/forming tools or just careful forming by hand?


http://tinyurl.com/b4fdupp XK140MC OTS, S2 XKE OTS, XK8 OTS
Monterey CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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In reply to a message from davidxk sent Sat 14 Nov 2015:

I bought a $5 tool to make tight bends, after my brake shop
said they could not make such tight bends

All it is is 2 flanged discs mounted on a metal backing plate.

The diameter of the small wheel is only about 1.5cm (~3/4’’)

therefore allowing bends of that diameter

It may be possible to fashion one yourself, but the discs
are shaped like regular pipe-bending tools, so the pipe is
not deformed–
The original message included these comments:

As I recall I just hand formed all the pipes except the
one that goes between the brake master cylinder and the
Servo. That pipe is larger diameter than all the rest and
has one very tight 180 degree bend. For that I used a hand
tool (kind of like a pair of pliers) and made a bit of a
hash of it…


Tony
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In reply to a message from awg sent Sat 14 Nov 2015:

Quite a few of the bends, particularly at the ends of the
pipes are very close to the fitting as well as very sharp
radius - I couldn’t do them with my store bought bending to
tool. I use a 1/4’’ plate with a 5/16 tapped hole close to on
one edge, a spacer the same thickness as the pipe and sl
slightly smaller diameter than the desired bend, and a la
large diameter washer. You want the gap between the plate an
and the large washer to be sized so that the pipe can’t fl
flatten out when you are bending it.

To hold the end/fitting I let the fitting hang over the edge
edge then clamp a piece of flatstock to the plate to locate th
the fitting and stop it from drawing through. For really sm
small radius bends the pipe may get stuck in the jig, no pr
problem, just remove the screw and it all comes apart fine.

Andrew–
The original message included these comments:

I bought a $5 tool to make tight bends, after my brake shop


1968 3.8S
Zurich, Switzerland
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Andrew, got any pics?On Sun, Nov 15, 2015 at 2:25 AM, JagWaugh andrew.waugh@bluewin.ch wrote:

In reply to a message from awg sent Sat 14 Nov 2015:

Quite a few of the bends, particularly at the ends of the
pipes are very close to the fitting as well as very sharp
radius - I couldn’t do them with my store bought bending to
tool. I use a 1/4’’ plate with a 5/16 tapped hole close to on
one edge, a spacer the same thickness as the pipe and sl
slightly smaller diameter than the desired bend, and a la
large diameter washer. You want the gap between the plate an
and the large washer to be sized so that the pipe can’t fl
flatten out when you are bending it.

To hold the end/fitting I let the fitting hang over the edge
edge then clamp a piece of flatstock to the plate to locate th
the fitting and stop it from drawing through. For really sm
small radius bends the pipe may get stuck in the jig, no pr
problem, just remove the screw and it all comes apart fine.

Andrew

The original message included these comments:

I bought a $5 tool to make tight bends, after my brake shop


1968 3.8S
Zurich, Switzerland
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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Les…'68 S1.5 2+2


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Tony, any pics?On Sat, Nov 14, 2015 at 7:51 PM, awg awg1962@bigpond.com wrote:

In reply to a message from davidxk sent Sat 14 Nov 2015:

I bought a $5 tool to make tight bends, after my brake shop
said they could not make such tight bends

All it is is 2 flanged discs mounted on a metal backing plate.

The diameter of the small wheel is only about 1.5cm (~3/4’’)

therefore allowing bends of that diameter

It may be possible to fashion one yourself, but the discs
are shaped like regular pipe-bending tools, so the pipe is
not deformed

The original message included these comments:

As I recall I just hand formed all the pipes except the
one that goes between the brake master cylinder and the
Servo. That pipe is larger diameter than all the rest and
has one very tight 180 degree bend. For that I used a hand
tool (kind of like a pair of pliers) and made a bit of a
hash of it…


Tony
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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Les…'68 S1.5 2+2


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In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Sun 15 Nov 2015:

Out on loan at the moment. I’ll try and make a sketch.–
The original message included these comments:

Andrew, got any pics?


1968 3.8S
Zurich, Switzerland
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