Hi,
Since the I installed the rebuilt head, the Jaguar has been overheating in stop and go traffic. It is fine on the highway. Before the head came off, overheating was never an issue.
The two radiator fans come on when the temperature rises. The Otter switch seems to be doing it’s job.
The coolant was changed at the time of the head re-installation.
It’s a 4.2 engine, with triple SUs, Mallory distributor.
Any thoughts on what to check first? Thermostat? Timing?
Thanks in advance,
Randy Olson
Ithaca, NY
1969 E-Type 2+2______________________________________________________
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In reply to a message from Randy Olson sent Sat 7 Aug 2010:
Assuming the rest is good (timing might be the issue but I
doubt it, and, are the fans coming on?) you need to do a dye
check of the coolant to determine if there are combustion
gases in it. If not, then look to a possibly clogged-up rad.–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Randy Olson sent Sat 7 Aug 2010:
Duh…i see where you TOLD ME the fans were coming on…my bad!
Dye test.–
The original message included these comments:
The two radiator fans come on when the temperature rises.� The Otter switch seems to be doing it’s job.�
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Randy Olson sent Sat 7 Aug 2010:
Series IIs overheat in traffic when the ambients are near triple
digits. Just make sure the right side rad fan keeps working and
you’ll make it through. Fall will be here before you know it.–
The original message included these comments:
Since the I installed the rebuilt head, the Jaguar has been overheating in stop and go traffic.� It is fine on the highway.� Before the head came off, overheating was never an issue.�
–
Pete Peterson 70E(193K) 88XJ40s(253K & 242K) 94XJ40 (122K)
Severna Park, Maryland, United States
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There’s a lot to check…you should open the thermostat housing and
inspect both the thermostat and the lip of the bypass passage. It
could be a slipping belt, make sure the pump belt is fresh and
properly tensioned. If you’re using a vacuum advance Mallory, it
should be set to 10BTDC. If none of this works, I would guess that
some crud was stirred up when you removed the head, and is now
plugging the rad. Try having it rodded out.
Mike Frank
At 07:23 AM 8/7/2010, you wrote:>Hi,
Since the I installed the rebuilt head, the Jaguar has been
overheating in stop and go traffic. It is fine on the
highway. Before the head came off, overheating was never an issue.
The two radiator fans come on when the temperature rises. The Otter
switch seems to be doing it’s job.
The coolant was changed at the time of the head re-installation.
It’s a 4.2 engine, with triple SUs, Mallory distributor.
Any thoughts on what to check first? Thermostat? Timing?
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Thanks for all the feedback. I have a few things to report.
The slipping belt: I believe the belt for the water pump is OK, but it does deflect about an inch or a little more when I push on it. There’s a tensioner, but it’s hard to see. How do you increase the belt tension, and do you think it needs to be tighter?
I should have said before that when the head was replaced I removed the air conditioning. I had previously cut the belt, since the A/C was a joke anyway. The manual says that Series 2 cars with A/C have a 13 lb. pressure cap on the expansion tank. Do I need to go with a 7 lb. cap now that the A/C is disconnected? It doesn’t seem related, but hey…
Another possibly unrelated issue: The car is running very rough at speeds around 60 mph. I thought it was due to the overheating, but today it ran rough, and the temperature gauge was in the NORMAL range. It seems like it’s missing, but the spark wires are all connected and the plugs and wires are fairly new. I think it might be a fuel filter.
I haven’t checked the thermostat yet, and I’m not sure what/where the bypass passage is, but I’ll find it. Should I look to see if it is clogged?
I checked the timing and it is at 10 BTDC. That seems OK.
When it overheated in traffic this morning it was a cool 75 degrees, so the air temp is not to blame. Beautiful day here today.
Thanks again,
Randy----------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 16:00:32 -0400
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
From: mfrank@westnet.com
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Overheating in trafficThere’s a lot to check…you should open the thermostat housing and
inspect both the thermostat and the lip of the bypass passage. It
could be a slipping belt, make sure the pump belt is fresh and
properly tensioned. If you’re using a vacuum advance Mallory, it
should be set to 10BTDC. If none of this works, I would guess that
some crud was stirred up when you removed the head, and is now
plugging the rad. Try having it rodded out.Mike Frank
At 07:23 AM 8/7/2010, you wrote:
Hi,
Since the I installed the rebuilt head, the Jaguar has been
overheating in stop and go traffic. It is fine on the
highway. Before the head came off, overheating was never an issue.
The two radiator fans come on when the temperature rises. The Otter
switch seems to be doing it’s job.
The coolant was changed at the time of the head re-installation.
It’s a 4.2 engine, with triple SUs, Mallory distributor.
Any thoughts on what to check first? Thermostat? Timing?
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In reply to a message from Jaguarpete sent Sat 7 Aug 2010:
Ah, yes: Pete has a spiffy ‘fix’ for this, IIRC, about
swapping sides of the inlet pipe to the rad. Again, assuming
all other is good, that might be a cure here, too.
I’d forgotten that!–
The original message included these comments:
Series IIs overheat in traffic when the ambients are near triple
digits. Just make sure the right side rad fan keeps working and
you’ll make it through. Fall will be here before you know it.
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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In reply to a message from Randy Olson sent Sat 7 Aug 2010:
Hi Randy,
Double check your plug wires and make sure you don’t have a
pair crossed (I don’t want to share how I know this;-).
Could you have a vacuum leak? The tension sounds fine so I
doubt that’s it.
Just a couple of thoughts, good luck.
Cheers,
Lynn–
The original message included these comments:
I checked the timing and it is at 10 BTDC.� That seems OK.
When it overheated in traffic this morning it was a cool 75 degrees, so the air temp is not to blame.� Beautiful day here today.
Thanks again,
Randy
–
Lynn G.
68/85 ots, 73 2+2, Boise, Id., United States
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In reply to a message from L.Lynn sent Sat 7 Aug 2010:
But, Lynn: yer a doctor, dammit, NOT a mechanic!
(JK, as I know you’re a pretty darn good wrench! It was
THERE. I HAD to say it!)–
The original message included these comments:
pair crossed (I don’t want to share how I know this;-).
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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The tensioner should keep the belt tight, just examine it for glazing.
The bypass passage is inside the thermostat housing. You will look
for corrosion, not blockage.
Keep the 13 lb cap. Do you have a blank cap on the radiator?
Before you go too far, check the compression. Given the symptoms, and
the new head, it’s possible that a little too much was skimmed during
the rebuild.
Mike Frank
At 04:50 PM 8/7/2010, you wrote:>Thanks for all the feedback. I have a few things to report.
The slipping belt: I believe the belt for the water pump is OK, but
it does deflect about an inch or a little more when I push on
it. There’s a tensioner, but it’s hard to see. How do you increase
the belt tension, and do you think it needs to be tighter?
I should have said before that when the head was replaced I removed
the air conditioning. I had previously cut the belt, since the A/C
was a joke anyway. The manual says that Series 2 cars with A/C have
a 13 lb. pressure cap on the expansion tank. Do I need to go with a
7 lb. cap now that the A/C is disconnected? It doesn’t seem
related, but hey…
Another possibly unrelated issue: The car is running very rough at
speeds around 60 mph. I thought it was due to the overheating, but
today it ran rough, and the temperature gauge was in the NORMAL
range. It seems like it’s missing, but the spark wires are all
connected and the plugs and wires are fairly new. I think it might
be a fuel filter.
I haven’t checked the thermostat yet, and I’m not sure what/where
the bypass passage is, but I’ll find it. Should I look to see if it
is clogged?
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Sat 7 Aug 2010:
Thank you Paulie, now go to your room 
Cheers,
Lynn–
The original message included these comments:
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
–
Lynn G.
68/85 ots, 73 2+2, Boise, Id., United States
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In reply to a message from Randy Olson sent Sat 7 Aug 2010:
Are your fan(s) both pulling, not pushing? One of our E-
type guys here had his hooked up wrong. S2 ones may be
series-wound and not be polarity-sensitive - Mike will
know.
Do you know what pinking is and can you hear it? I guess
that’s more of a highway issue than town but if they took
too much off the head it might be something to check as
Mike said. Finally, there are a lot of false overheating
reports. What, EXACTLY are you seeing to make you beileve
it is too hot? Personally I’d get the thing running right
first and if it’s a blocked filter you’d be lean mixture
part of the time, which isn’t healthy but not so much a
town issue until it’s bad.
Pete–
69 E-type OTS 5-speed, 99 Daimler Super V8,
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Sat 7 Aug 2010:
Another concern might be the head gasket, was it the open water
passage type that matches the oval pattern in the head, or was it
one of the more recent types that has small round holes that should
go on the intake side and larger round holes that fit the exhaust
side? If it was installed upside down, the small holes on the
exhaust side then, it will do just what your car is doing. The
rough running does sound like a possible water leak.
Good Luck
Allen--
alodmd
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I spent a little time going down a checklist of some of the ideas presented by the list. I believe the cooling issue may be related to the belts, as Mike suggested. They’ve not been replaced in at least ten years, and do look a little glazed. I sprayed them with belt dressing. Afterward, I took a two mile test drive and came back to the garage, left the engine running, and watched the temperature gauge on the dash. The fans came on when the gauge got to the L in NORMAL. Then, the engine got no hotter after letting it run a few minutes. In fact, I think the temp needle started going down into the A of NORMAL. That’s a start.
I checked the fans and they are running in the correct direction, pulling air into and through the radiator.
I have not checked for corrosion in the bypass of the thermostat, rodded out radiator, or checked compression.
I did add ATF to the dashpots hoping the the missing at high speed would stop. I also changed the fuel filter. Neither helped.
So, for now the cooling issue may be solved. I should probably install new belts. Any trick to that?
As for the missing at high speed, or high RPM, I am still searching for the answer.
Thanks again for all your input. I need it!
Randy----------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 21:58:15 -0400
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
From: mfrank@westnet.com
Subject: RE: [E-Type] Overheating in trafficThe tensioner should keep the belt tight, just examine it for glazing.
The bypass passage is inside the thermostat housing. You will look
for corrosion, not blockage.Keep the 13 lb cap. Do you have a blank cap on the radiator?
Before you go too far, check the compression. Given the symptoms, and
the new head, it’s possible that a little too much was skimmed during
the rebuild.Mike Frank
At 04:50 PM 8/7/2010, you wrote:
Thanks for all the feedback. I have a few things to report.
The slipping belt: I believe the belt for the water pump is OK, but
it does deflect about an inch or a little more when I push on
it. There’s a tensioner, but it’s hard to see. How do you increase
the belt tension, and do you think it needs to be tighter?
I should have said before that when the head was replaced I removed
the air conditioning. I had previously cut the belt, since the A/C
was a joke anyway. The manual says that Series 2 cars with A/C have
a 13 lb. pressure cap on the expansion tank. Do I need to go with a
7 lb. cap now that the A/C is disconnected? It doesn’t seem
related, but hey…
Another possibly unrelated issue: The car is running very rough at
speeds around 60 mph. I thought it was due to the overheating, but
today it ran rough, and the temperature gauge was in the NORMAL
range. It seems like it’s missing, but the spark wires are all
connected and the plugs and wires are fairly new. I think it might
be a fuel filter.
I haven’t checked the thermostat yet, and I’m not sure what/where
the bypass passage is, but I’ll find it. Should I look to see if it
is clogged?
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Do you have A/C? Front or side mounted alternator? Power steering? It
makes a difference.
To install the water pump belt, dress it over the pump, then stretch
it as far over the crank pulley as you can get it…if you have the
right belt, you’re not going to be able to stretch it quite far
enough to get it all the way over. But when it’s stretched as far as
you can get it, hang it up on the edge of the pulley, with as much
tension as you can. Then flick the starter, and the belt will carry
over the pulley and seat.
Mike Frank
At 05:18 PM 8/8/2010, you wrote:> I should probably install new belts. Any trick to that?
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I have removed the A/C. It is a front mounted Alternator. There is no power steering.
Does you know the part numbers for the water pump belt? Or, is it a matter of removing the existing belt and taking it to the auto parts store and finding one that is similar?
Part number for the alternator belt?
Thanks,
Randy>
Do you have A/C? Front or side mounted alternator? Power steering? It
makes a difference.Mike Frank
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Gates 9313 should work for the water pump. I don’t have an
interchange for the alternator, but if you find one, let me know.
Mike Frank
At 06:32 AM 8/9/2010, you wrote:>I have removed the A/C. It is a front mounted Alternator. There is
no power steering.
Does you know the part numbers for the water pump belt? Or, is it a
matter of removing the existing belt and taking it to the auto parts
store and finding one that is similar?
Part number for the alternator belt?
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