[E-Type] Re-chrome or buy new?

E-Type
1

I am considering getting my 66 FHC re-sprayed this winter. I plan to remove
the glass, replace rubber, and brighten the chrome. I priced out new chrome
from S-N-G Barratt and it looks like it will be around $2,500 to $3,000 for
all new. I have yet to get estimates for re-chroming but I assume it would
be around the same if not more.

Anyone have comments on aftermarket Jag chrome? What can I expect to be a
good replacement and what should I avoid? I bought new bumpers from Moss for
my MGA and they were complete CRAP! I have heard the same for Healey bumpers
from Moss and they are made in China.

God bless Moss for what they do but these were cheap and I should have
known. The description should have been “Cheap shiny chrome bumpers from
China. Have fun fitting them.”

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Cheers,

Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC
http://www.geocities.com/bgeuroclassics/BG_Euro.html
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY_________________________________________________________________
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2

Scott,
I used a chromer out of Indy about 4 years ago and the price was about half
of new, if I dropped it off and picked it up. It’d probably be worth your
while to explore rechroming options around you. At least it’d fit when you
got it back!
Cliff
69 & 70 OTS
Bloomington IN

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3

In reply to a message from scott willis sent Tue 4 Sep 2007:

Scott,
That’s a no brainer: Re-chrome. Much of the replacement
chrome being sold it crap. And, it won’t fit anyway, without
grinding to fit the body, which will then require re-chroming
anyway! Be sure everything is carefully fitted to the final
bodywork before sending out for plating.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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4

In reply to a message from scott willis sent Tue 4 Sep 2007:

Scott,

For the bumpers, I would advise you have yours re-chromed.
I had bought a set of the Mexican front bumpers and they
looked o.k., but eventually I decided to have the originals
done locally when I heard the fit on the repros might not be
too good. When I got mine back from the chrome shop, the
finish on them was much better than the repros. And the
cost was comparable or lower than the current cost of the
repros; I paid $215/per for the fronts with over riders,
$315/per for the rears.

I also had one of my A-post finishers done for about $75,
and the gutter trim for $110. I did buy new bonnet beading
from Barratt, since that was cheaper than having the old
ones re-done.

Find the local shop that does chrome for the Harley crowd,
and take it to them at the beginning of winter. They’ll be
swamped with work in the spring.–
The original message included these comments:

Anyone have comments on aftermarket Jag chrome? What can I expect to be a
good replacement and what should I avoid? I bought new bumpers from Moss for
my MGA and they were complete CRAP! I have heard the same for Healey bumpers
from Moss and they are made in China.
God bless Moss for what they do but these were cheap and I should have
known. The description should have been ‘‘Cheap shiny chrome bumpers from
China. Have fun fitting them.’’

–
Jack Terrick 66 FHC
Greensburg, PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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5

Scott,
you’ve pretty much answered your own question. I’ve restored 2 S1s now and been burned with most “new chrome” . I try to use replated original. Sometimes, yu have to buy new though.
Mike Moore
— ahpowered@hotmail.com wrote:From: “scott willis” ahpowered@hotmail.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Cc: swillis@insightbb.com
Subject: [E-Type] Re-chrome or buy new?
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 22:09:57 -0500

I am considering getting my 66 FHC re-sprayed this winter. I plan to remove
the glass, replace rubber, and brighten the chrome. I priced out new chrome
from S-N-G Barratt and it looks like it will be around $2,500 to $3,000 for
all new. I have yet to get estimates for re-chroming but I assume it would
be around the same if not more.

Anyone have comments on aftermarket Jag chrome? What can I expect to be a
good replacement and what should I avoid? I bought new bumpers from Moss for
my MGA and they were complete CRAP! I have heard the same for Healey bumpers
from Moss and they are made in China.

God bless Moss for what they do but these were cheap and I should have
known. The description should have been “Cheap shiny chrome bumpers from
China. Have fun fitting them.”

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Cheers,

Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC
http://www.geocities.com/bgeuroclassics/BG_Euro.html
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY

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6

In reply to a message from scott willis sent Tue 4 Sep 2007:

I’d rechrome: a few years back I was at this point and bought new
chrome off eBay, from the chromer in Chula Vista, California. The
bumpers fit so-so but the supplier stole some of my parts and will
not return them. As a rewsult I’m out about $1000 worth of hard-to-
find chrome bits. The less expensive Jag stuff (and I’ll wager the
cheap HeeHee stuff, too) is made by this same supplier…
CAVEAT EMPTOR MAXIMA!!!–
The original message included these comments:

Anyone have comments on aftermarket Jag chrome? What can I expect to be a
good replacement and what should I avoid? I bought new bumpers from Moss for
my MGA and they were complete CRAP! I have heard the same for Healey bumpers
from Moss and they are made in China.

–
Paul Wigton, '60 DKW 1000SP, '71 Rover 2000 TC, and Tweety!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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7

I agree, it’s a mixed bag. Some of the repro chrome was quite good
then other pieces would be off just enough to make it unusable
( example- the chrome trim around the base of the windscreen, looked
very nice but after 10-12 hours of trying to fit it, i realized it
was just a hair thicker and wouldn’t make the bends-cleaned up the
old one and fitted it in in 30 min!).
The parts I received from 'Mexico" were fine however I won’t do
business with him again.
Cheers,
LynnOn Sep 3, 2007, at 9:18 PM, Jack T. wrote:

In reply to a message from scott willis sent Tue 4 Sep 2007:

Scott,

For the bumpers, I would advise you have yours re-chromed.
I had bought a set of the Mexican front bumpers and they
looked o.k., but eventually I decided to have the originals
done locally when I heard the fit on the repros might not be
too good. When I got mine back from the chrome shop, the
finish on them was much better than the repros. And the
cost was comparable or lower than the current cost of the
repros; I paid $215/per for the fronts with over riders,
$315/per for the rears.

I also had one of my A-post finishers done for about $75,
and the gutter trim for $110. I did buy new bonnet beading
from Barratt, since that was cheaper than having the old
ones re-done.

Find the local shop that does chrome for the Harley crowd,
and take it to them at the beginning of winter. They’ll be
swamped with work in the spring.

–
The original message included these comments:

Anyone have comments on aftermarket Jag chrome? What can I expect
to be a
good replacement and what should I avoid? I bought new bumpers
from Moss for
my MGA and they were complete CRAP! I have heard the same for
Healey bumpers
from Moss and they are made in China.
God bless Moss for what they do but these were cheap and I should
have
known. The description should have been ‘‘Cheap shiny chrome
bumpers from
China. Have fun fitting them.’’

–
Jack Terrick 66 FHC
Greensburg, PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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Lynn G
73 2+2 (Pearle)
68 OTS (Emmy)
67 Spitfire (?)
66 Spitfire (Sweet Pea)
Boise, ID USA

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8

Yet Dave Ferguson, a well known and succesful loca restorer of both jerry and Ray’s cars had an article inour club newletter (JAG) in which he said he always used new windshield chromes on the A post because thepaltingpriocess distorted them too much!
I’ve plated those things and had lots of trouble, and I’vebought new ones and had lots of trouble.
Mike Moore
; — lgardner28@cableone.net wrote:From: Lynn Gardner lgardner28@cableone.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Re-chrome or buy new?
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 13:03:53 -0600

I agree, it’s a mixed bag. Some of the repro chrome was quite good
then other pieces would be off just enough to make it unusable
( example- the chrome trim around the base of the windscreen, looked
very nice but after 10-12 hours of trying to fit it, i realized it
was just a hair thicker and wouldn’t make the bends-cleaned up the
old one and fitted it in in 30 min!).
The parts I received from 'Mexico" were fine however I won’t do
business with him again.
Cheers,
Lynn
On Sep 3, 2007, at 9:18 PM, Jack T. wrote:

In reply to a message from scott willis sent Tue 4 Sep 2007:

Scott,

For the bumpers, I would advise you have yours re-chromed.
I had bought a set of the Mexican front bumpers and they
looked o.k., but eventually I decided to have the originals
done locally when I heard the fit on the repros might not be
too good. When I got mine back from the chrome shop, the
finish on them was much better than the repros. And the
cost was comparable or lower than the current cost of the
repros; I paid $215/per for the fronts with over riders,
$315/per for the rears.

I also had one of my A-post finishers done for about $75,
and the gutter trim for $110. I did buy new bonnet beading
from Barratt, since that was cheaper than having the old
ones re-done.

Find the local shop that does chrome for the Harley crowd,
and take it to them at the beginning of winter. They’ll be
swamped with work in the spring.

–
The original message included these comments:

Anyone have comments on aftermarket Jag chrome? What can I expect
to be a
good replacement and what should I avoid? I bought new bumpers
from Moss for
my MGA and they were complete CRAP! I have heard the same for
Healey bumpers
from Moss and they are made in China.
God bless Moss for what they do but these were cheap and I should
have
known. The description should have been ‘‘Cheap shiny chrome
bumpers from
China. Have fun fitting them.’’

–
Jack Terrick 66 FHC
Greensburg, PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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Lynn G
73 2+2 (Pearle)
68 OTS (Emmy)
67 Spitfire (?)
66 Spitfire (Sweet Pea)
Boise, ID USA

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9

Anything thin like this is going to be problem no matter what. If you
re-chrome it, the ham fisted polishers at the shop will either grind it
away to nothing, or distort it. Then it will be chromed, you pay for
it, and it doesn’t fit.

If you buy a new piece, it will come close to fitting, but not really,
then you bend it to fit, cracking the chrome, and then have to get it
re-chromed sending you back to option A.

I think the only way to handle the more delicate parts is to bring them
all to a shop that’s willing to do a chem strip process for you. It’s
very time intensive, though not very labor intensive other than having
to check it every day to see how it’s coming along. Most shops don’t
use this process nor will they do it for you. You have to call around
to find a place that will. I suppose you could also do this step
yourself if you’re willing to invest in a tank some chemicals and some
reading time.

When you get it back, bend and fit everything so it’s perfect, fill any
deep marks with silver solder, and then polish it yourself by hand. The
delicate trim pieces on these cars are brass. They don’t corrode much
at all, and are very easy to polish by hand using nothing but fine emery
on a block, and then polish paste. I’m almost done with all of the trim
on my hardtop, and the chrome strip for the soft top (which was broken
in three pieces). It’s all perfectly straight now, and very shiny. I’m
curious to see what it’s going to cost to triple plate this order when I
bring it in like that. It shouldn’t be much at all since it’ll be less
than an hours work for them to complete.

I’ll never forget unwrapping a very expensive chrome order that I
submitted to a shop still covered in the old chrome, only to find that
every part had the old chrome sanded off. Some of the parts had
literally been sanded through leaving holes in them. These were brass
parts so there is no way that this happened because of corrosion. It
didn’t stop them from chroming them, and gift wrapping them for me though.

The bumpers are a different story. Once they’re cut to fit I think any
semi competent shot can polish and plate them for you, and they’ll
probably do a better job than you could unless you’re very experienced
at polishing steel.
Eric

Yet Dave Ferguson, a well known and succesful loca restorer of both
jerry and Ray’s cars had an article inour club newletter (JAG) in
which he said he always used new windshield chromes on the A post
because thepaltingpriocess distorted them too much!
I’ve plated those things and had lots of trouble, and I’vebought
new ones and had lots of trouble.
Mike Moore

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10

In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Tue 4 Sep 2007:

Hi Ray, normally I agree with you, but I think the brightwork
should be renewed before fitting to body. At least that’s what I’m
doing.

If the chrome shop hammers out a dent, it could change the shape of
the bumper. Thus, I’m rechroming first, then fitting bumpers as
part of roughing out the body. After the car receives paint, I’m
assured the bumpers will fit without any surprises.

Dave S.–
The original message included these comments:

anyway! Be sure everything is carefully fitted to the final
bodywork before sending out for plating.
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States

–
1957 XK140MC OTS, 1964 E-type OTS, 1973 Maserati Bora 4.9L
Orange/CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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11

In reply to a message from sent Tue 4 Sep 2007:

Mike,
A minor correction - Dave Ferguson: the guy who screwed
up/butchered/botched the bodywork/paint on my car. More like ‘‘un-
restored’’, since it looked better when it went into his shop than
it did when it left.–
The original message included these comments:

Yet Dave Ferguson, a well known and succesful loca restorer of both jerry and Ray’s cars had an article inour club newletter (JAG) in which he said he always used new windshield chromes on the A post because thepaltingpriocess distorted them too much!
I’ve plated those things and had lots of trouble, and I’vebought new ones and had lots of trouble.
Mike Moore

–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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12

In reply to a message from Dave Shaw sent Tue 4 Sep 2007:

Dave,
Making the bumpers conform to the shape of the body is waaaaay
easier than making the body conform the shape of the bumpers.
Obviously, the chrome pieces must be straight before you fit them
to the body, but plating, then fitting, is a recipe for disaster.
You may get away with it, but a large measure of luck will be
involved.–
The original message included these comments:

Hi Ray, normally I agree with you, but I think the brightwork
should be renewed before fitting to body. At least that’s what I’m
doing.
If the chrome shop hammers out a dent, it could change the shape of
the bumper. Thus, I’m rechroming first, then fitting bumpers as
part of roughing out the body. After the car receives paint, I’m
assured the bumpers will fit without any surprises.
Dave S.

–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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13

Agreed, you’ll be wasting a ton of money if you don’t fit them before hand.
This isn’t about dents, but about how well the edges of the parts conform to
the body, and the truth is that most of them didn’t fit right even when new.

Using a combination of grinding down, and shimming out, you can achieve a
uniform gap all the way across. If you try this after they are chromed the
chances are very good that you’ll ruin the chrome. Dents are a whole other
story, and you should verify exactly how the shop intents to deal with that
prior to handing it over to them.
Eric

Dave,
Making the bumpers conform to the shape of the body is waaaaay
easier than making the body conform the shape of the bumpers.
Obviously, the chrome pieces must be straight before you fit them
to the body, but plating, then fitting, is a recipe for disaster.
You may get away with it, but a large measure of luck will be
involved.

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14

emalossi@austin.rr.com wrote:

Anything thin like this is going to be problem no matter what. If you
re-chrome it, the ham fisted polishers at the shop will either grind it
away to nothing, or distort it.

I took a front bumper for my 240Z to a local chrome shop. When I went
to pick it up, they brought out this wavy, paper-thin, shiny thing that
bore little resemblance to what I brought in.

I told them that couldn’t possibly be the one I brought in as it was
straight and just needed rechroming. They looked around and thankfully,
found mine.

They said it was really unusual to get two 73 Datsun 240Z bumpers at the
same time. Hopefully the owner of the other one was satisfied with what
they gave him. :wink:

George Cohn
'70 OTS

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15

Ray,
I really don’t think so. It isn’t that hard and a lot of body shops do it that way. The only guy who buys new bumpers, then grinds, then replates is a famous restorer in the midwest.
Mike Moore

— jagboy@pacbell.net wrote:From: “Ray Livingston” jagboy@pacbell.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Re-chrome or buy new?
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 22:18:38 +0200

In reply to a message from Dave Shaw sent Tue 4 Sep 2007:

Dave,
Making the bumpers conform to the shape of the body is waaaaay
easier than making the body conform the shape of the bumpers.
Obviously, the chrome pieces must be straight before you fit them
to the body, but plating, then fitting, is a recipe for disaster.
You may get away with it, but a large measure of luck will be
involved.

The original message included these comments:

Hi Ray, normally I agree with you, but I think the brightwork
should be renewed before fitting to body. At least that’s what I’m
doing.
If the chrome shop hammers out a dent, it could change the shape of
the bumper. Thus, I’m rechroming first, then fitting bumpers as
part of roughing out the body. After the car receives paint, I’m
assured the bumpers will fit without any surprises.
Dave S.

–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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16

I think you’re mixing methods here. Wasn’t the question whether bumpers
should be re-chromed prior to fitting to the body? I think the answer
that is absolutely not. It takes maybe an hour per to get them fitting
perfectly, and no risk. That way you not only don’t have the risk of
ruining them while griding, you also know exactly how many shim washers
you need to bolt them straight up. This also means less risk because
fitting them can require about a dozen on/off iterations.
Eric

Ray,
I really don’t think so. It isn’t that hard and a lot of body shops
do it that way. The only guy who buys new bumpers, then grinds,
then replates is a famous restorer in the midwest.
Mike Moore

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17

Yes it can happen, and I think the is a testament to the fact that if
you have dents in a bumper, unless you specifically agree that it’s
going to be mechanically straightened prior to polishing, then the
method of choice they’ll use to remove dings and deep pitting will be an
aggressive round on their belt sander. It’s really unfortunate because
parts like these don’t grow on trees. One of my rear light bezels was
sanded down so far that the lens stuck out more than 1/16" all around.
Eric

I took a front bumper for my 240Z to a local chrome shop. When I
went to pick it up, they brought out this wavy, paper-thin, shiny thing
that bore little resemblance to what I brought in.

George Cohn
'70 OTS

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18

No, I’m not mixing methods. In thepast, I have read one of Austin’s most famous restorers buying brand new bumpers, grinding them and the replating them.

I still say you can grind them if you do it slowly and carefully with a grinder, but you are right, if you are going to replate anyway and know it, you could go ahead and grind first.

Sometimes, as on Andy;s car, there was no replating.The bumpers were used. I ground them with no problems at all. On my 63,earlier, they were all replated first (before I even thought about grinding). I ground those after the body shop showed me how to do it without burning them. I never had one that required replating because of grinding; and therein is my point: I don’t know anyone who has damaged a replated bumper by grinding, yet everyone (who haven’t done it) say you can’t do it!
Best, Mike Moore
— emalossi@austin.rr.com wrote:From: emalossi@austin.rr.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Re-chrome or buy new?
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 20:01:09 -0500

I think you’re mixing methods here. Wasn’t the question whether bumpers
should be re-chromed prior to fitting to the body? I think the answer
that is absolutely not. It takes maybe an hour per to get them fitting
perfectly, and no risk. That way you not only don’t have the risk of
ruining them while griding, you also know exactly how many shim washers
you need to bolt them straight up. This also means less risk because
fitting them can require about a dozen on/off iterations.
Eric

Ray,
I really don’t think so. It isn’t that hard and a lot of body shops
do it that way. The only guy who buys new bumpers, then grinds,
then replates is a famous restorer in the midwest.
Mike Moore

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19

In reply to a message from sent Wed 5 Sep 2007:

Mike,
I’m not sure anyone is saying you can’t do it, but perhaps
it’s better not to. When you grind the edge, you leave exposed
steel that, sooner or later, will start to rust. If you grind then
plate, you’ll have a nice, continuous plating, that will provide
better protection much longer.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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20

Ray,
You obviously didn’t read my original post.

Of course, if you know you are doing a body AND going to plate, its better to do the grinding first after the body is done.

How do you think Jorge’s bumpers, or SNG’s for instance are used then? opr any new bumpers?

Do people grind them and then have to replate them?
Only if you have more money than sense.

I get annoyed at myths, and this hoary old chestnut remains a myth perpetuated by people who never did it, and until I hear from someone who has ground a bumper and screwed it up (although I am sure its possible!) it remains a myth in my book.

You grind them, paint the edge, and glue the rubber on.

Best, Mike Moore

In reply to a message from sent Wed 5 Sep 2007:

Mike,
I’m not sure anyone is saying you can’t do it, but perhaps
it’s better not to. When you grind the edge, you leave exposed
steel that, sooner or later, will start to rust. If you grind then
plate, you’ll have a nice, continuous plating, that will provide
better protection much longer.

Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Netscape. Just the Net You Need.

Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php