Sorry folks if this topic has been covered, but a ‘‘search’’
didn’t seem to help me with an answer. Does the rear end
need to be dropped to change the rear pads. I was looking at
it this morning and I couldn’t see how the pads could be
removed without a major effort.–
Plumcrazy
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Plumcrazy sent Sat 25 Jul 2009:
There are inspection holes in the rear bulkhead, accessible from
behind the seats. Remove the covers, then you have (limited…)
acces to the rear calipers.
Cheers, Andrys–
Andrys, '69 e-type 2+2 being rebuilt
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Plumcrazy sent Sat 25 Jul 2009:
Plumcrazy, you don’t state what year/model you have. On my '64E, it
takes some effort, but you can remove the pads from below. In fact,
I have removed the calipers without moving the rear-end.
Bob '64 OTS–
The original message included these comments:
Sorry folks if this topic has been covered, but a ‘‘search’’
didn’t seem to help me with an answer. Does the rear end
need to be dropped to change the rear pads. I was looking at
it this morning and I couldn’t see how the pads could be
removed without a major effort.
Plumcrazy
In reply to a message from BobEJag sent Sat 25 Jul 2009:
I guess I should have stated my cars year and model. I have
a '67 2+2. Can the pads still be accessed through that bulkhead?–
Plumcrazy
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from JosephA sent Tue 28 Jul 2009:
I talked to a local Jag repair shop, and casually talked a
bit about replacing my rear pads. When asked about price he
commented that he would replace the pads on my car for under
$300.00. Needless to say, I was shocked! He said that it
would take two hours. Maybe the guy has lunch or watches a
movie while under the car?–
The original message included these comments:
The whole job takes about 15 minutes.
–
Wayne Williams 70 Etype OTS
Indianapolis, Indiana, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from WWilliams sent Tue 28 Jul 2009:
15 minutes is a bit optimistic but certainly it can be done in well
under an hour, and that’s working casually. You do the whole thing
from inside the car on a 2+2. Unless you drop stuff that you need
to crawl under the car to pick up.
Set radio to decent station.
strategically position large iced tea where it is handy to reach.
Remove the rear seat bottom, set aside.
undo two nuts holding lower rear seat squab, set aside.
Remove the 8 slotted screws holding each access pannel in place,
remember which is which and which end is up.
Remove the cotter pin and retaining pin and extract the old pads.
Retract pistons.
Insert new pads.
Replace retaining pins and cotterpins.
Reinstall access plates. Do yourself a favor and buy phillips head
screws to replace the slotted screws.
Wash hands.
Reinstall seat back and bottom.–
The original message included these comments:
I talked to a local Jag repair shop, and casually talked a
bit about replacing my rear pads. When asked about price he
commented that he would replace the pads on my car for under
$300.00. Needless to say, I was shocked! He said that it
would take two hours. Maybe the guy has lunch or watches a
movie while under the car?
The original message included these comments:
The whole job takes about 15 minutes.
–
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from John Walker sent Tue 28 Jul 2009:
I do need to replace the rear pads on my S2 OTS. I have
several questions—#1 What do you guys use to retract the
pistons? #2 Do they unscrew or do they push back? #3 Can I
drink a little Cabernet instead of the ice tea? #4 Will it
work as well? Thanks!–
The original message included these comments:
strategically position large iced tea where it is handy to reach.
–
Wayne Williams 70 Etype OTS
Indianapolis, Indiana, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from WWilliams sent Tue 28 Jul 2009:
A big flat tip
They push (crack open the brake line)
As long as it’s Red and Very DRY
Yes it’ll work. You can do it!–
The original message included these comments:
several questions—#1 What do you guys use to retract the
pistons? #2 Do they unscrew or do they push back? #3 Can I
drink a little Cabernet instead of the ice tea? #4 Will it
work as well? Thanks!
–
Brad
huntington valley, PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from WWilliams sent Tue 28 Jul 2009:
You need not crack open the bleeders: they will retract w/o
doing that.–
The original message included these comments:
I do need to replace the rear pads on my S2 OTS. I have
several questions—#1 What do you guys use to retract the
pistons? #2 Do they unscrew or do they push back? #3 Can I
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Fri 31 Jul 2009:
umm… now can one replace the calipers without dropping the
IRS?
Lester–
The original message included these comments:
I do need to replace the rear pads on my S2 OTS. I have
several questions—#1 What do you guys use to retract the
pistons? #2 Do they unscrew or do they push back? #3 Can I
–
'66 XKE FHC Running but NOT stopping!
Louisiana, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from saabguy sent Fri 31 Jul 2009:
I just completed removing the pots from each side leaving
just the caliper body behind. As long as you don’t need to
get at the emergency brakes, that’s all you really need to
do to rebuild them.–
Gary Herzberg, 63 3.8 FHC 66 Series 1 OTS, 98 xk8
Montana, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
“You need not crack open the bleeders: they will retract w/o
doing that.”
True, but on many late model cars, like an XJ40 detritus pushed back from
the caliper pistons can create problems.
Cheers, Alan----- Original Message -----
From: “Wiggles” vrooomie@fastmail.fm
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Rear brake pads
In reply to a message from WWilliams sent Tue 28 Jul 2009:
You need not crack open the bleeders: they will retract w/o
doing that.
The original message included these comments:
I do need to replace the rear pads on my S2 OTS. I have
several questions—#1 What do you guys use to retract the
pistons? #2 Do they unscrew or do they push back? #3 Can I
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I have almost finished final assembly of the rear diff. Re the
brake pads, I installed the new set that came with the car. I have
no idea if the set I installed is good or bad since I don’t
recognize the brand. It may be a Euro brand that I just don’t know
of. Can anyone refer a set of high quality pads? Now is the time
to do it with ease.
Regards,
Dan Siegel
71 S3–
DAN SIEGEL
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from DAN SIEGEL sent Wed 10 Nov 2010:
Hello Dan
What do you intend to do with your Jaguar?
I mean if you intend to race it then you put in racing pads… If
you intend to show it you put in factory original pads, If it’s
simply going to be a driver then you put in whatever fits…
In all reality by the time even the cheapest pads wear out, you’ll
be back in doing work to the rear end… Likely the calipers will
be siezed or the parking brake needs work etc.
If you are really differant you might get 5-6000 miles on your
Jag the first year… However you’ll risk alienating your wife and
kids getting even that many miles on it… This is a hobby right?
and Kids have things they want to do, wives have their own ideas
etc… To put 5-6000 miles on it locally ( very few people feel
confident taking their restoration project far out of town)…
After that your mileage will go down dramatically… At some
point in the next decade or 2 your mileage will be under triple
didgets… Not long after that the car will have something go wrong
probably minor and it will go into storage (Intentional or not)
One car I spent over 3000 hours left recently having never left the
shop in 20 + years… Another I traveled all over the country with
hasn’t gone out in a decade… I checked it’s odometer and it hasn’t
gone 3000 in 2 decades!
Maybe Jay Leno can use his cars on a regular basis since he has
several guys working for him. The rest of us? Well, rest assured
you won’t wear out the new rear pads…–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from DAN SIEGEL sent Wed 10 Nov 2010:
Dan,
MGuar is right about the longevity of rear pads, especially stock.
But the pads you use can influence how the brakes feel to you and
how well you think they work.
GreenStuff pads in my experience give the brakes more bite, and
reduce the pedal pressure you need to apply. Even if you never
come close to locking the wheels, you’ll notice the difference.
Carbon-kevlar pads as offered by XKs Unlimited are even better, but
they squeal like boxcars.
Whatever you do, be sure to install the same type pads front and
back. Mismatch can significantly reduce your braking at the limit -
like when a car pulls out in front of you – one end will lock up
before the other and at that point you significantly lose braking
force. This means that brake effectiveness is lost at a lower
total braking force than would be true with matching pads. I have
definitely experienced this firsthand! If you feel one end locking
up before the other, you have this problem. Corollary: Be sure
total brake condition matches front and back. If you fix one end
and not the other, you won’t like the brakes.
I wonder whether that is why some people disparage S1 E Type
brakes? If they are in good condition they are great except after
30 minutes of very hard braking in mountains.
Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from mouton sent Wed 10 Nov 2010:
Wow.
MGuar’s narrative is eerily like a Nostradamus version of Dicken’s
A Christmas Carol.
I {like many others I suppose}, fancy themselves to be amongst the
greatest of all E Type drivers {like Fangio and Stirling Moss}.
In reality though, it will be one of the greatest cars ever to get
bagels on Sunday {nice weather only}.
So irrespective of that fantasy, I still want the car to be able to
stop as well as a race car.
Jerry, those GreenStuff pads sound fine. Where may I ask can I
procure a set?
Regarding keeping the pedigree of the front and rear brakes pads
the same, I wonder how many mechanics bother to check if the front
pads that they are replacing are the same as the rears? Probably
not many I would suppose.
But based upon my average E Type miles per year actually driven, I
suppose that these pads would last about 600-700 years before they
wear out.
In reply to a message from DAN SIEGEL sent Wed 10 Nov 2010:
Dan,
Green Stuff is available from XKs Unlimited and probably most of
our vendors.
I never put more than 3000 miles a year on the car, but I have worn
out several rear brake sets. So, depends on how you drive! Also
on the condition of your rear brakes. Stuck pistons will preserve
brake pads indefinitely ; -)
Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–