Finally got some break in miles on my resto project, only to find
I’d forgotten to tighten the rear hub nuts.One worked loose, so I
no longer need a hub extractor to get it off!
I torgued them to 140ftlbs, but had to go tighter to line up the
split pins, 200ftlbs now.There’s some chatter from the hot rod set
about 1/2 shaft breakage Is the nut torgue a factor?
Mike B–
E type Mike
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from E type Mike sent Tue 23 Feb 2010:
Mike : IMHO you are better to go back ( i.e.looser) to engage the
split pin ; alternatively the thing to do is to thin the washer
down until you can get the pin in with the correct torque on the nut–
christopher storey
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In reply to a message from E type Mike sent Tue 23 Feb 2010:
Mike,
As I understand it, in this case the 140lb ft spec just means ‘‘as
tight as you can (reasonably) get it’’. The components that are
compressed when you tighten the nut are all pretty sturdy, so I
shouldn’t think they are going to distort significantly. The
threads on the stub axle/castellated nut are probably the weakest
link, and I’d have thought they should be good for more than 140lb
ft. That said, once the nut is ‘‘snug’’, the components are all held
in place, so I don’t see any need to apply excess torque. As I
understand it, the torque should have no impact on the bearing end-
float (unless it is so high as to distort the spacers or bearing
races). It seems to me that the purpose of the tightness of the nut
is to stretch the stub axle and thus provide a high clamping force
between the face of the nut and the washer, which would prevent the
nut loosening IF the split pin were not there. As suggested
earlier, I’d be inclined to back off the nut from 140lb ft to get
the split pin in, rather than tighten it. That’s what I plan to do
with mine if I ever get that far! I’d also be sure to use a good
quality (important), and correct diameter (probably more important)
split pin. Any fretting of the split pin, resulting in failure
could be disasterous. It’s interesting (and significant) to note
that the bearing/seal kits available from the usuals also appear to
include the split pin. As a final point, I don’t think the torque
used has any effect on how easy it will be to remove the half-shalf
from the hub when you remove the nut. That’s more down to what anti-
seize or ‘‘anti-click locktite’’ you used on the splines, and how
much corrosion has taken place. There are several postings on this
last issue in the archives. I’m still in two minds as whether to
use anti-seize or a WEAK locktite on the splines.
Now I’ve rambled on too long, and should add the final caveat that
I’m not a mechanical engineer, and so everything I just said should
probably be ignored! Others better qualified please jump in…
-David–
The original message included these comments:
Finally got some break in miles on my resto project, only to find
I’d forgotten to tighten the rear hub nuts.One worked loose, so I
no longer need a hub extractor to get it off!
–
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–