[E-Type] Rear shocks and springs replacement

This weekend I managed to remove my 66 FHC’s rear suspension at the
cost of very little skin and blood. The main purpose was to have
the diff reconditioned, but while the IRS is out it seems silly not
to do a few more things.

My question is whether I should change the shocks and springs ?
They all look very old and cruddy, but by my very limited
judgement, were working fine. Ride height looked about right and
the bounce test was good.

Is it possible that I might introduce problems with modern
replacement springs or be wasting money on new shocks, or should I
assume that old (possibly 44 year old) shocks and springs should be
replaces as a matter of course.

I would go for standard rate springs with Boge shocks.

Thanks in advance - excellent forum with excellent advice.

Rob–
UKRob
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In reply to a message from UKRob sent Tue 20 Apr 2010:

Rob: it rather depends on how they behaved before you dismantled
the rear end. If the springs/shocks are getting tired, you would
notice a tendency for the car to wallow over long wave pitching
surfaces such as you sometimes get where a motorway crosses a road
underneath, and the bridge is not quite at the same level as the
rest of the road. The front often behaves perfectly well, but the
rear will pitch up and down several times before returning to
equilibrium. If there was any sign of this at all, then it is
worth replacing the shockers, which are not that expensive anyway.
It is a pig of a job to do with the IRS in place, and in any event
there is a tendency for old shockers to physically break–
christopher storey
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In reply to a message from UKRob sent Tue 20 Apr 2010:

Hi Rob,
I offer the position, that when faced with a similar
situation and have the time and money anyway, just
rebuild/replace all components, including the brakes.
After all, it’s a pain to remove these rear assemblies
anyway and it’s one less system to worry about in the future.
Do it once, do it right!–
The original message included these comments:

This weekend I managed to remove my 66 FHC’s rear suspension at the
cost of very little skin and blood. The main purpose was to have
the diff reconditioned, but while the IRS is out it seems silly not
to do a few more things.
My question is whether I should change the shocks and springs ?
They all look very old and cruddy, but by my very limited
judgement, were working fine. Ride height looked about right and
the bounce test was good.
Is it possible that I might introduce problems with modern
replacement springs or be wasting money on new shocks, or should I
assume that old (possibly 44 year old) shocks and springs should be


KenAshbrook, Severna Park, MD, 1E77559 '67 2+2, '04 XJR,
Severna Park, MD, United States
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I gotta confer with Ken here. If even one shock is weak (Bet there is one) replace them all. Don’t even look, replace the rear drive shaft u-joint, they are a generic number, and cheap. Look under the rubber brake cylinder caps, if there is even a drop of fluid, rebuild or replace. Check parking brake.
These things will never be easier to reach.
LLoyd

Wherever space and time interact, there is information, and wherever information can be ordered into knowledge, and knowledge can be applied, there is intelligence.
Pavel Mirsky, mid 21st Century Russian General----- Original Message -----
From: “KenAsh…” kwashbrook@gmail.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:40:12 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Rear shocks and springs replacement

In reply to a message from UKRob sent Tue 20 Apr 2010:

Hi Rob,
I offer the position, that when faced with a similar
situation and have the time and money anyway, just
rebuild/replace all components, including the brakes.
After all, it’s a pain to remove these rear assemblies
anyway and it’s one less system to worry about in the future.
Do it once, do it right!


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In reply to a message from UKRob sent Tue 20 Apr 2010:

I replaced my rear shocks and springs last year (with the rear end
in place - what a chore!) and the ride is much better. Used GAZ two-
way adjustable shocks and slightly heavier duty springs (275 lbs).
I no longer get that sinking/sagging feeling from the back when I
hit undulations in the road and I can now ‘‘easily’’ (!?) adjust the
ride height.–
Alan.Barclay - 1970 SII FHC & 2000 S-Type
Carrollton, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from UKRob sent Tue 20 Apr 2010:

Hi Rob, where are you in the UK?

I will dissent from the consensus, although the advice is
perfectly reasonable. My take is that there’s no harm and
potentially a great deal of satisfaction in checking
components for serviceability and then using your
judgement, rather than just replacing automatically.

  1. I have a set of 1966 shocks that have I believe done
    around 55,000 miles. When dismantled, apart from looking
    scruffy they seem to exhibit stronger damping from their
    larger bodies than a set of nearly-new shocks I bought on
    reflex at Stoneleigh because I assumed mine would be no
    good. The chrome on the damper rods is perfect and there is
    no sign of dampness. I will be using these shocks on the
    car.

  2. More than one person here has expressed dissatisfaction
    with their choice of aftermarket shock. I have never read a
    complaint of poor performance of the original suspension in
    this respect.

  3. Shock eye rubbers are cheap and easy to fit if they are
    doubtful. Mine seem OK.

  4. Your IRS has probably not been out for years. In the
    event you DID have to go back in there, some of the worst
    aggro would be avoided after careful reassembly this time.

I guess it depends a lot on your facilities and attitude to
working on the car - i.e. Whether it is something to be
minimised at all costs or an integral part of the fun. I
would definitely advise giving the brakes a very good
inspection though, and UJ replacement is simple and cheap
if they seem anything other than smooth and well lubed.

Pete–
68 E-type OTS, 99 Daimler Super V8
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from UKRob sent Tue 20 Apr 2010:

Rob,

I’d replace the shocks in any case. You can’t really tell the
condition with a bounce test, the suspension should be too stiff to
tell you anything. Go with the Boges and you should see a big
improvement in ride and handling.

Springs – not so much. Check the measurements against the factory
specs and if they meet those, just keep them. Wallowing and
bouncing over berms will be corrected with the new shocks, no new
springs necessary.

Otherwise, replace everything you can, unless you like taking it
all apart again in a few years. Be sure to get expensive, high
quality U-joints, there are some very poor ones out in our parts
stream. You should be able to find recommendations in the
archives. All rubber must also be Metalastic or Jaguar factory
parts. Rubber in here makes a huge difference in the feel of the
car.

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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In reply to a message from Alan Of E sent Tue 20 Apr 2010:

Um…how do you ‘‘easily change the ride height?’’–
The original message included these comments:

I no longer get that sinking/sagging feeling from the back when I
hit undulations in the road and I can now ‘‘easily’’ (!?) adjust the
ride height.


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from mouton sent Tue 20 Apr 2010:

Absolutely agreed, to all, Jerry.–
The original message included these comments:

I’d replace the shocks in any case. You can’t really tell the
condition with a bounce test, the suspension should be too stiff to
tell you anything. Go with the Boges and you should see a big
improvement in ride and handling.
Springs – not so much. Check the measurements against the factory
specs and if they meet those, just keep them. Wallowing and
bouncing over berms will be corrected with the new shocks, no new
springs necessary.
Otherwise, replace everything you can, unless you like taking it
all apart again in a few years. Be sure to get expensive, high
quality U-joints, there are some very poor ones out in our parts


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Wed 21 Apr 2010:

The outside of the shocks and the spring perch are threaded to
allow the perch to be spun up (or down) the body to compress the
springs. This provides some individual adjustment to level the car,
without removing the shocks, a bit like adjustable air shocks but
using a special wrench and elbow grease. Page 5E of XK’s Catalog
shows a nice picture.–
Alan.Barclay - 1970 SII FHC & 2000 S-Type
Carrollton, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from Alan Of E sent Wed 21 Apr 2010:

Ah, OK: I read it as you having used the standard non-adjustable
perches. Gotcha!–
The original message included these comments:

The outside of the shocks and the spring perch are threaded to
allow the perch to be spun up (or down) the body to compress the
springs. This provides some individual adjustment to level the car,
without removing the shocks, a bit like adjustable air shocks but


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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