I’ve read the manuals for a week and I am about to rebuild the
front suspensions. Does anyone have any tips or words of
sagacity that they have gained from experience?
Thanks,
Rob Herrick
S1 OTS–
Gas409
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In reply to a message from Gas409 sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
You may want to take a look at the following websites. There should
be enough info to help you with the things that the manuals don’t
tell you about.
http://www.inetogether.net/jaguar/040602.php
http://www.inetogether.net/jaguar/040611.php
http://www.inetogether.net/jaguar/040625.php
http://www.mckennasgarage.com/xke/jag35.htm
http://www.mckennasgarage.com/xke/jag39.htm
http://www.relicrecyclery.com/Jaguar/page27/63XKE_27b.htm
Chris Many–
If I can’t fix it, I’ll fix it so no one can !
Highgate Falls, Vermont, United States
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In reply to a message from Gas409 sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
Hey Rob -
I know I don’t have anything to say that qualifies as
sagacity but I do know a little about saga-city! Make sure
you mark (i.e. stamp/punch) a spline and the slot it fits
into on each end of the torsion bars. That assumes you are
happy with the ride height to begin with. It makes it a
simple task to re-create the ride height on assembly.
Good luck!–
Craig Gilbert - '68 E-Type FHC - RIP
Birmingham, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from golfnut324 sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
…and then of course, clearly mark every little part ‘‘LEFT’’
or ‘‘RIGHT’’ by some means in order to save much confusion
later. 
I think I used different hidden punch marks when I did my
own. Never needed to change the torsion bar setting either.–
The original message included these comments:
sagacity but I do know a little about saga-city! Make sure
you mark (i.e. stamp/punch) a spline and the slot it fits
into on each end of the torsion bars. That assumes you are
happy with the ride height to begin with. It makes it a
simple task to re-create the ride height on assembly.
–
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from Clive Wilkinson sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
Marking the torsion bars is probably the most important thing you
should do. I don’t know how true the stories are, but I heard that
if you switch the left and right sides you run the risk of the
torsion bars breaking since they would be twisted in the opposite
direction that they’ve been stressed in.
-Chris Many–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from golfnut324 sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
…and then of course, clearly mark every little part ‘‘LEFT’’
or ‘‘RIGHT’’ by some means in order to save much confusion
later.
I think I used different hidden punch marks when I did my
own. Never needed to change the torsion bar setting either.
–
If I can’t fix it, I’ll fix it so no one can !
Highgate Falls, Vermont, United States
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In reply to a message from Gas409 sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
The only thing I would add is to be aware that the original
suspension was plated with cadmium. If you clean the original
plating with a wire brush (or any other abrasive) you may
create cadmium dust which can be a health hazard – and linger
on surfaces. It is probably better to take the suspension for
re-plating than clean it up yourself.–
DrewScherz, 1969 FHC
Austin, Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from DrewScherz sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
‘‘you may create cadmium dust which can
be a health hazard…’’
Too late for me, but thanks anyway. 
Couple more things looking at my notes, count and record the
exposed castor threads on the upper wishbones, make notes of
the number of camber shims and where they came from, record
all the nuts and bolt positions because it can be time
consuming later juggling them around to their correct positions.
If I did another, I’d use the more modern sealed type bottom
balljoints, from recommendations I’ve seen here.–
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
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Easy to do, just takes time. Well worth it considering the cost of having it done. Use a 1X2 inch of hardwood to make the spacer to install the t-bars.
LLoyd
Insofar as mathematics applies to
reality it is not certain and
so far as mathematics is certain
it does not apply to reality.
Einstein----- Original Message -----
From: “Gas409” amherricka@aol.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, November 7, 2012 2:03:24 AM
Subject: [E-Type] rebuilding front suspension.
I’ve read the manuals for a week and I am about to rebuild the
front suspensions. Does anyone have any tips or words of
sagacity that they have gained from experience?
Thanks,
Rob Herrick
S1 OTS
Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
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In reply to a message from Clive Wilkinson sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
Me too, Clive. I wire brushed mine with a drill before I read
up on it. Fortunately for us the plating is very thin and most
of it has weathered off of most of our suspensions.–
The original message included these comments:
Too late for me, but thanks anyway.
–
DrewScherz, 1969 FHC
Austin, Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from DrewScherz sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
Excellent ideas. Thanks everyone, Rob–
Gas409
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In reply to a message from Gas409 sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
Rob, Its been said mostly…don’t let the round shafts get
too thickly plated , or…it won’t fit back together.So that
pretty much means don’t powder coat!–
The original message included these comments:
Rob Herrick
S1 OTS
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
Rob some others mentioned but my list:
When powdering the Tbars, dont powder the splines (goes
withous saying :))
Make sure to use a very small angle file to clean up the
splines really well then test against the wishbone and rear
slot before rebuilding. Should slide in and out no issues.
This will be a huge time saver and also save you from hammering
Mark the sides on the Tbard
The upper wishbones shaft ends are different. Make sure
you note the which side goes toward the front. Its an easy
to miss and a pain to pull back apart
Buy good bushings. You can get good upgraded sets from
the usual also, stiff/soft, etc options if you like
Take pictures and mark the threads. Helps in rebuilding
Count your shims
If you are going for original, keep the cap at the top
ball joint as they are now tapped with a lube tip and not
found anymore
Dont tighten anything until you are done
Make sure to try and set the camber, etc before putting
back together. Much easier to get it almost right.–
Peter 1965 4.2 OTS 10004
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In reply to a message from pmartini sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:
Very important advice particularly if you have removed and
replaced the reaction tie plate.
The arrangement of the large washers is shown well in the
parts books; I used the pic in the SNG Barratt catalogue.–
The original message included these comments:
- Dont tighten anything until you are done
–
Andrew B, 1967 S1.5 FHC, 1964 S1 OTS www.projectetype.com
Adelaide, Australia
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